i got mine off of ebay.. for $45.. plus shipping.. think it was like $52 total.. but no bolts.. i then noticed the same guy.. a few weeks later.. had upped the starting bid.. to around 65.. or 85.. cant remember.. but it was a nice ring.. i had to file out the center hole slightly.. and beat it on with a hammer.. but it works well.. and its still cheap...

 

Thats funny, I just bookmarked that site yesterday...

of course Root Beer for Leve

 

the current rings have 10º, 20º, and 30º clocking positions for D300's (the pic only shows 20º and 30º positions, but it was a test piece).

the new rings will have 10º, 20º, and 30º clocking positions for D300's and 10º and 20º clocking positions for NP231's. the prototype should be done today and pics should be up on the site early next week. these "new and improved" rings should be ready for sale in about 2 weeks.

matt

 

Now all we need are inexpensive D300's to go with the clocking rings.

 

1. JeepeMatt, Be sure to post them here...
2. At the very least... a link!

 

I'm interested, but need more info re a CJ7

1) Can anyone give us some guidelines on when a change in driveshaft type would be necessary. Raising the xfer case 1" should be the same as lifting by suspension 1". Right? Many of us have U joints running equal angles and probably 2 1/2 to 4 inch spring lifts. I'd love to build a new FLAT skidplate / crossmember and gain some clearance, but of course need to know what I am getting myself into ultimately. If I clock the dana 300 up to level with the bottom of the frame rails are there any driveshaft changes required?

It appears only the front driveshaft output will be affected by this clocking. Is that right?

Thanks,
Tim

 

Why would you want to clock a 300 up 30 deg.? They are only 23 deg. stock so it would seem that 23 deg is the most you would want to go.

 

Tim as long as you have enough travel in your front shaft and don't run at high speeds with the front engaged, you should be ok. Yes, clocking the case would be comparable to a lift.

You do have to be careful depending on what tranny you are running. I used Go2Guy ring to clock my 300 flat. I am running a TF727 and the large pan caused me to fun a two piece front shaft.

 

at 30 degrees how nuch clearance will it gain? and can it be adapted to an sm465 to d300 adapter?

 

Hey Craig,

Do you have any pics of your 2-piece front shaft installed?

Thanks,
Tom

 

How about lubrication at the changed angle? Any issues theres?

 

Why would you want to clock the case up past flat 7 deg. you would have a transfer case in the passenger seat. 23 deg is as high as you would ever want it. also at 30 deg. you couldnt drain the oil out of it without taking the bottom cover off cause the drain plug would be one its way back up the case. If you are going to make them like this you should have the answer, right?

 

Tom, I'll get some hopefully tonight. The shaft is in but it mounts to my skid plate. I have the skid off so I can plumb for the new tranny cooler.

 

Lumpy, i'm making them like this because that's they way they were ordered and thats what people want. i'm not positive, but i think by clocking the T-case 30º it puts the front output at the same elevation as the rear.

there should be no oiling/lubrication issues as long as you have gear lube filled to the bottom of the fill hole. if you are that worried about draining all the fluid out, jack up the D-side of the jeep 6 inches, or park that side on ramps...if you are willing to take the extra steps required to build a flat skid-plate and new front drive-shaft, changing the fluid should not be a challenge for you.

i should have pics of the D300/NP231 combo rings in a couple of days and will post them when i have them.

thanks!

matt

 

NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

here are some spy pics of the new style rings that will work on both D300's (10º, 20º, and 30º clocking positions) and NP231's (10º, and 20º clocking positions).

matt

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

Hmmm... I bet they'd work on NP-208s as well, and that would help me get the x-case back above the skidplate

Plus, the extra length would help off-set swapping to GW springs/mild lift shakcles in the rear for added wheel-base/height (eventually) so I may not need another new rear driveshaft.

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

lumpy...
you are spouting off about crap you dont have all the facts on..
not every application for these rings is on your particular jeep.
if you want to clock a d-30 behind a tf 727 and you want it to be flat you'll have to clock it 30 degrees.
so......

to you.

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

Sycho15, i'd bet you are correct. the only thing you really need to look into is the amount of spline engagement.

...and it will add 3/8" to your assembled length.

the production version of those rings should be ready in 2-3 weeks.

matt

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

JeepnMatt,

In reply to:

spy pics

[/ QUOTE ]
1. I needed a laugh today!

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

I ordered one.

Hope to have it installed before my camping trip. Still trying to decide whether to build the skidplate as a flat plate of 1/4" spanning the frame rails, or and "H" design out of square tubing, with a removable skid under the transfer case.

Is the skid plate a structural element of the frame, bracing it against one frame rail shifting forward or back? There's no other triangulation built into the jeep frame.

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

Hey elusive how are you going to clock a d-30 behind a 727???? lame is the fact that you think you need to clock a dana 300 up 30 degrees to make it flat when you only have to go 23 degrees. The factory rotation of a d300 is 23 degrees, the factory rotation of a 231 is 13 degrees. You cant argue those written in stone facts!

P.S. I just made my own clocking ring and will make anybody else one with no hardware for 60 bucks shipped, any rotation you want. Add 20 bucks for hardware. they are .325 thick

 

dana 300 clocking rings.........kinda cool. I think its cool to have a guy trying to make a buck on jeep stuff, lord knows i am trying. Go matt make lots of stuff, but please upgrade your pictures..........



Give him a break guys, who knows maybe soon he will be casting alum cases.YEAH


MC..........from bulltear.com

 

Incase anyone was curious.

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

Tim, i just ordered one also. my plan is to use a crossmember kit from Competition Engineering, then make a flat skid out of 1/8" plate to go under it all. the crossmember kit is 39.95 from Summit Racing, p/n CEE-3600

 

Re: NEW and IMPROVED clocking rings

Grapehead, I'm thinking along the same lines. The inner frame surface is cluttered with e-brake lines, etc on the drivers side, making a single crossmember look attactive. I'm also thinking about a similar mounting system of bracketing the ends of the tube with tabs welded to the frame, except I've got 2" square tubing lying around from last year's trailer building project. However, I see the need to keep the transmission mount as low as possible, as I won't be lifting the transmission in this process.

Is that mount on the skidplate with the 3 studs attached only to the tranny? It looks like an aluminum casting right at the end of the tranny's output. And it looks like nothing is attached to the transfer case itself. I'd hate it if the mount rotated with the transfer case clocking! To keep things low enough for that mount, I might have to use a plate welded between the bottoms of two tubular cross members.

Also, I have one stripped bolt hole on the transmission to transfer case. Anyone have an idea on how best to fix it? Helicoil strong enough?