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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
window net kit only using top bar


pci race air


new trailer


our shock plates
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
im not sure how im going to do this 12 hr skool day on wed then drive 4 hours after 7pm to az get up early to work next 3 days..

yesterday spent hole day mounting wheels, today we completed fresh air mount, led dome mount, window pillar gussets and started on light bar





























we had a huge storm tonight

tomo last day going to try and finish light bar and door bars

9/4 next thurs-sat last week of fab (steering column and pedals, close cab up, bolt on front bumper to sell at expo)

9/11 following thus-sat fiberglass work (visor and scoops wont have time for dash, finish any welds and paint cage work

9/18 following thurs-sat prep truck and body and glass work start painting

9/25 thurs-sat paint truck and lay sponsor graphics

10/2 thurs-sat modify trailer and do any extra work we have time for like front spindles etc

10/7 load up sand head out to the expo

so that is the schedule i have hopefully will get full work days those 3 days i have all thed parts i need, on days we finish what we had plan will work on more fab work like on front of truck, im really hoping to have the bumper for sale, going to make it a bolt on with plated horns...also going to try and get custom ezup and shirts made for expo as well, c u there thanks for the support
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
well back to CALI

spent whole day on light bar, its a lot of work building everything from scratch (tabs, tubes, etc) especially with not all the fancy tools, i think it turn ouy bitchin though and we just need to do the adustment bars, I ran out of that tubing size.

One cool thing is that if we ever want to put the big lights we use for the front bumper up top they will barely fit.















laid dash back on and slip on the new shoes over the stock d44 hubs barely able to get a lug nut on.. switching to 5/8 studs next week... best thing is we are exactly 85" and they were not tighten down and we know the suspension is not right, so looks like were all good on trackwidth



















some of my fav new pics.. truck is sagging so much with that extra 250lbs in back..but we dont have coil springs tighten right now





tested vision x 50 watt hid spot.. here is pic with light off and then with on in same spot... garage is about 90-100 ft away









 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
finished the light bar















cut the door skin out.. we are doing a different door bar, havent seen anything like it that i know of but should be strong and easy for me to get in and out of



mounted the side mirrors, decided to make a 3d box to flow the spot were old mirrors use to be... this and the other things we have done in the cab has made this cab so solid to the truck you shake or bang on it anywhere and whole truck moves with no vibration















we also sealed up the passenger side of the firewall, tomo we are installing the steering and pivot and quick disconnect as well as seal up driver side firewall and get it finished like the back before i head back to CA
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
steering column















rear view mirror





mirror gusset





window nets







finished cab with gorilla mat

 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
completed door bars, they bend out into the door making it stronger then just a straight bar, easy egress and ingress for me.... completed cooler mount minus the drilling and tapping into the pipes.




cooler mounts

 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
ok I was going to make these the last pictures until the day of the expo, but I think ill post a few pictures of the fiberglass scoops and visors and when body is primer at end of week. Then once paint begins its top secret lol.

We got all trhe cage work painted from cab back (remember not touching front till after expo, so any work you see is mostly old shop)

We are going to fix the tie rods on thursday, hoping to get them tap do not like the sleeve look or idea.

So here are the pictures, fabrication is done (metal) until after the expo. The engine oil cooler is not staying there, we just put it up there for show using the same mounting holes as second tranny cooler. The gusset plate was made with idea of two tranny coolers so it is correct. We made lil caps for the sway bar, on a BMS kit i think you get nice aluminum ones, mine didnt come with anything so made these.

All right its time for me to head back to cali.







 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
scoop





























here is a picture of the truck primered that way you can see what we did to the cowl. Graphics are all layed we built a removable winch hitch setup, the steering is good to go cost me a quarter of what it cost to buy it new, not happy about that.. but everything is good you will see the paint and assembly at expo. I dont think i mentioned what color it is. Truck is mostly complete up to the front of the cab there were a couple fabrication things we did not get completed before expo...









 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
ok I have a break between classes i thought i post some of saturday pics of the models.... here u go enjoy, btw its a crappy camera

5 hour energy girls



4130 girls







the gorgeous general tire girl, tony only aloud one girl to leave the booth and mint girl had to stay











chamlee's leg made a cameo

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
the color i chose.. it is a copper pearl with a flat finish... so in the shade you get that flat dark look, but in the sun it looks metallic

 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
after assembly and inside the cab, did door jams ans cant even see were cab was cut off and not mounted back on correctly













 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
the rest from the 2010 lucas oil offroad expo minus the ones with people sitting inside the truck to take pictures and the models on the outside







 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
cut out to and built a better one designed by us not someone else


first tube



second tube took awhile to get it perfectly plumb and level







cpl more updates tomorrow then brake for two weeks
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
been working hard getting ready for our first race in Feb to start the season


here is one of the gusset tubes, we decided to go straight in stead of down and bend, keep it stronger and cleaner




here are the pictures of the frame work... have 3/4 4130 250 wall crush sleeves on passenger side for swinger.. both sides have 3/16 plate on each side tieing frame to new engine cage and to the cross brace... it will be completely boxed on the ends once we build the bumper, plates already cut to close it up















here are the picks from the mock up of the shock mounts... we are almost done with driver side bypass.... the coilover droop it self out without binding.. bypass is on the exact same plane as the coilover is and should have no issues either being that lengths are identical.. we will be gusseting and dimpling the sides of the tabs



















just about done... mocking up last tab on upper bypass mount

these are my old hubs that were in my previous housing... were only used for mock up... first $500 takes them.. same as the dezert nation ones, in fact use to say dezert nation on them until manufacture took back an unpaid order and re anodize the caps and I bought from him. Snouts not included I can get for under 200, they are 2.25 and are identical to dezert nation, camburg, and mitler brothers.. One has nicks in it because previous shop who screwed rest of the things on my truck did not use grease and bearings and nut had rusted to snout, had to use a screw driver to get it off. They are 5x5.5 with coarse thread. When I bought these they were $1100, they now sell for $1500 and only difference is the two snouts and the bearings and seal, I have the bearings but i suggest buying new ones. For the front you just need to get the snouts, for rear you need to get snouts and get hollowed out and get drive plates.



got the bypass finished.. minus gussets.. it cycle perfectly, took shots as it droop out on it own... no binding at all just like the coilover... think it looks so much better then before






here is the suspension drooping out on its own




 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The start of the bump can set up, it's bolt on since they are mounted to beam mounts… Took us a long time we tried so many variations trying to get it out as far as possible and not change through its travel so it would end up in our dimpled pad






Limit strap, it will have dual on each side


Suspension is off, to weld it up, cleaning it up and building our dimpled gussets to box in bump can mounts, there are these cuts all around one of the beams but it must have been like that when dave welded them up because they are only on the inner plate, if it was after I got them their be gouges on all the plates not just inner one all the way around





Started making all our gussets





Not going to believe what we found after we removed the suspension for the first time since I had the truck, previous shop drilled beam mounts while mount was tacked up leaving a bunch of metal in between mount and frame rusting it all up and 3 of the holes have to be slugged and welded and redrilled because they didn't set it up based on the factory holes and then take a marker or whatever and draw the other holes that have to be drilled, actually we might have to slug all them, now that I think about it.





The clips resting space and some upgrades to the garage and our other toy 



 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Finished motor mounts yesterday, took longer than I hope but with no engine hoist and not pulling motor made it a little more fun lol. I would say we drop it an inch to 1.5" and moved it back an inch. The x brace clears easily now, we used the stock motor plate because it was made out of 3/16 and nice lip. We could of drop it more if we made new plates but we do not plan to keep this motor so made it simpler. Also put the bushing on the frame side so when new motor went it we could just put new tabs on the new motor, but I wish I would of put the bushing on the motor plate. The bushing is welded to the frame and then 4 plates are welded to the bushing and frame, next time motor is out ill put a gusset in between the bottom two plates. We still have clearance all the way around.
Before:



Lifted it up


Lowered it back down, Just to see how far down it would go


New mounts




Got the x brace all tacked in, plenty of room… before the alternator was in the way and required a bend to be put around it




Completed the fix on driver frame beam mount, the passenger side was worse. I had notice the mount was not up against frame thought the bolts were just not tight, nope they tacked it up and drilled holes without it being all the way up in the frame. So several holes to fix and one needs to be slugged and redrilled. These corrections are making fabrication go longer on front, BAP is out of the question looking at the MORE race in March since do not want MINT 400 to be first
 
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