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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just an fyi,

I am putting in my 3rd Detroit EZ Locker in my Wrangler Dana 35c rear axle, 32" MTs, daily driver. I have a Lock Right in the Dana 30 front end (with disconnect).

I thought I would add a few notes to the already discussed topic....what's the difference?

EZ Locker-Made by the people who make the real Detroit Locker. If you blow out an ez locker you can upgrade to the real Detroit Locker and only pay the difference. I would do this, but I don't want to put any more money into the Dana 35c, I'll wait until I have a 44 or 60. For now, I will just get another EZ Locker 'till it breaks. The basic design seems identical to the Lock Right except the springs. The EZ Locker uses a little cap at the end of the spring (almost like a little lifter). This seems to be the root of the first two failures. I believe that the spring pops loose or breaks the cap and then the locker starts to 'slip' making a horrible sound as if the axle has exploded.

The Lock Right doesn't have an 'upgrade path' in the event of failure. They too will guarantee the locker and will replace if needed. The springs are really a spring inside of a spring and it seems to be much more stout than the EZ Locker.


 
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What size motor do you have?
I was thinking about the lockright or ez locker for the front axle with the rock lock disconnect. (I got rid of the vacuum disconnect). Did you have to have your front driveshaft balanced? Why are you on the 3rd ez locker? What happened to the others? Do you still have the vacuum disconnect?

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The EZ locker is in the rear. I don't have the old ones since I had to trade them in for the warranty. The motor is only a 4 cyl. and I have no shaft vibrations. I think the problem starts with a faulty spring. I was hoping to hear what 'broke' on others'. Once springs are missing it seems that the clutches don't make even contact and the teeth start to chip.

 
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I believe the problem your having w/ your EZ-locker is that its not a very dependable rear locker. A lot of people only used them in the front diff because the front isn't used a lot. I have a ez locker in the front and detriot in the rear w/ no problems with this setup. My buddy also has the same setup and he pushes like 300hp or so w/ no problems. Oh and yes both are the 30/amc 20 combo just beefed up.

 
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did you check your thrush washers? I had a lockright installed and the mechanic forgot to replace the thrush washers--over time it started getting really loud and broke one of the pins. This was in a GM 10 bolt though, and it was several years ago. They may have changed their design some by now?

 

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You see so many failed EZ-lockers in Dana 35's because the carrier is weak and allows for mis-allignment of the cam gears of the locker, wearing out the teeth of the dog clutches.
I have seen it numerous times...

Get a different carrier and check to make sure it is in spec (per the locker instructions) and I bet your prolems will go away.

IMHO, putting another EZ locker in the same carrier you have now is gonna be a repeat performance... best of luck though /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

<a href="http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota">
 
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raymo, the owner of a very good driveline shop that I know, M.I.T. refuses to install Lockrites or E-Z Lockers in the rear diff of any
vehicle because they just don't hold up. The warranty repairs were eating him up.

Gary
 
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Had a mechanic friend that went through 7 Lock-Wrongs in 2 yrs, finally decided to run ARB's He kept shearing the tetth, funny part was, about every other locker (6 months or so) there would be a noticible change in the design. kinda wierd
BJ

Oh yeah, it was a 94 wrangler, 35c rearend

to hell with it, lets go wheelin'
 

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What noticable changes are you talking about? There is not much that can be changed in there...

Like I said - the ARB most likely fixed the problem because it replaced the CARRIER.

Go figure, it was a 35C axle - one of the worst carriers out there... the front 30 runs a close second... They are just plain WEAK carriers by design.

Most people just don't check the carrier specs before installing a lock right or EZ locker like they say to in the manual. Then they blame the locker when the carrier is the problem...

<a href="http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota">
 
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I use to run an EZ in my Model20, but after going thru two for warrenty I upgraded to an ARB. In both cases the locker had no visible signs of failure. It was just engaging/disengaging constantly while going down a straight road, constant speed. Caused a lot of rocking in my SOA w wrangler springs.
Have not had any trouble with the EZ in the front going on 5 yrs of hard driving. Numerous hub failures but not the locker or carrier.

 

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I just bought two Detroit EZ-Lockers for my front/rear Dana 44 axles. These things dont look very complicated, so why do they cost so friggin much? Looks like I could have a good machine shope make these for about half the price!

 
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