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Ok the rain slowed eneough today to check the exhaust flapper and here is what I found. It always stayed down and to the rear. The arm swung up and to the front. It is right on the end of the exhaust manifold before the y pipe, is this the right thing? It was about 35 today so it only took a few minutes to come down from fast idle, unlike when it is below freezing. I'm assuming that because it did not move from: cold before starting, cold after starting, warm still at fast idle, and warm at regular idle that the flapper is infact broken. I could not find any check for it in my haynes manual so I'm going to replace it. Thanks guys/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
-Mark

80 CJ-7 Laredo 304v8 TF999 3.73's BFG M/T's
 

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Re: ugh the actual question

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Ah....Markey, Markey; the inner secrets of Jeepdom are being revealed. There IS supposed to be a bimetallic coil spring that causes the pendulum arm to swing upward and against gravity, causing a "damper" effect in the exhaust, which forces the warm exhaust under the carb where it heats up all kinds of good stuff. Brace yourself because those things are $65 bucks new.(plus all the gaskets you need) We had to get a complete assembly for the SNOJEEP, but If I'm not mistaken the spring was still OK on the old one. I can look and see if you like, and determine condition of the spring itself....just a thought./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifIt isn't like mailing a transfer case,/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifthe spring only weighs a few oz./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
 

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Re: ugh the actual question

Mark,
Be careful about changing those donut gaskets./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif The stud nuts are always tough to back off. Muffler shops usually use a torch to heat them up in order get them off. If you don't have a torch; get some liquid wrench or something similar and soak the nuts good before you try to break them loose. They can snap the stud off or worse you could crack the exhaust manifold. Also it is best to replace both gaskets at the same time because most times, you have to loosen the other side of the "Y" pipe(I think you have a 304 V-8) anyway in order to get enough room to work. You might have to loosen some of the exhaust pipe hangers to get the room you need as well. Exhaust work can be...well....... exhausting/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

Good Luck /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
xjy173
 

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Re: ugh the actual question

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif ALL Right! Comedians are supposed to be opening at the Copacabana, not doodling on the BBS. Besides, Jim, we will all be goofing off New Years eve, and YOU will be wearing ear protection babysitting generators./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Actually, I have had some difficulty getting the RIGHT gaskets for the exhausts. The former owner told me they were 401 manifolds, and the gaskets originally offered by the parts counter guy were too small in the bore. I had to get in the catalog and find one that fit. HUGE donuts were in there, and they are reuseable, but the flange stuff isn't./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
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