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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone swapped a 1.6 16 valve from a 1999 tracker, etc with the coil packs on the valvecover? This engine is distributorless, and according to Brent, requires a 2 inch body lift to shut the hood in addition to 4 inches of suspension lift in order to clear the oild pan. I was not expecting the body lift. Has onyone ran into this besides me? What did you do?
 

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I'm not really famillar with theat engine but is it possable to remove the coil pack from the valve cover and relocate it somewhere else? Prolly not, or Brent would have recommened it.
 

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Talk to sean at aftermarket 4x4, I have been talking with him about doing a 1.6L swap with no lift at all. Also in his site he has a swap that he did named sleeper. Check that out. It's a whole write up very informative. I know he did some mods to the oil pan to make it fit. Like I said check out aftermarket4x4.com, and look up his sleeper project. Good luck
 

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IF tht's the same motor that's in the X-90 it's not any different than the OBD1 swap. The coilless disty is nice and makes a clean install. If you're having doubts about this install or what's needed contact Whazoo on this board. He built my harness and it was flawless.
 

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Is it the coil packs or the intake manifold that is sitting too high?
I know the 16V inlet manifold sits too high therefore you need the body lift.
The only way i know around this is to source a manifold from a <nobr>Suzuki</nobr> Baleno, but I dont know if you have them over there? They bolt straight on and sit lower so you will have bonnet clearance.
To clear the sump simply put your original G13 sump on it but you will need to modify the oil pickup to suit.
 

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Hi there mygreenihc...

As far as the 1999 version is concerned, I don't have experience with it in particular. I do however have experience with the 16 valve swap from a 1996 version. It is true that there CAN be clearance problems with the hood (bonnet) if you don't get the right kit. In my case, i used the one from PetroWorks and it fit GREAT! I did add some additional rubber spacers to the very front mount portion of the front clip but not a complete bodylift. The additional spacers equal somewhere's around 1/4" (thanks RockRat) As far as the oilpan is concerned, I do have the 4.5" SPOA and have no problems with clearance there.
BTW, the PW kit is the only kit that actually sets the engine lower and tilted slightly to the right in order to better clear the hood (bonnet). The only other issue is that I had to grind the exhaust downpipe just a bit to clear the right side framerail (hit a little under hard acceleration) PW's fix for that is to send your exhaust manifold in and they'll surface it at a 15* angle in order to better clear the framerail.

Oh and one more thing... It turned out that I still have around 1-2" of clearance between the hood and the engine with the stock aircleaner box in the approximate stock location.

Hope this helps.
 

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I have a 97 1.6 complete with all obd 2 sensors, wiring, and the even stock tracker airbox (though lately I have been craving the K&N "waaaah" sound....). I did the swap myself. I used an older calmini kit with engine mounts from roadless gear (if I recall correctly).

The electrical is not the problem, as has been said. The intake crossing over the head is what touches the hood. Though it is plastic, and I could make it close, I solved this by cutting out the X of support on the hood which let the hood close nicely.

It was swapping in the larger 1.6's fuel tank(with it's completely different fill hose grrr.) that caused me to decide on a 1" lift kit. (And my steering hasn't been the same since
)

Had I to do it again and since I ended up with a body lift anyway, I would go for the 2.0. "They" said it could not be done and now I here "they" might have a kit for it. Go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bazook,

What you are saying is the same thing that I have been told by the vendor that I bought the kit from. He said that the intake manifold came up higher in the back and would not let the hood close. He said that 1 inch would probably not be enough, that it more than likely would need two inches. His only other suggestiopn was to cut the hood. i guess I'll be getting a body lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wonder if the Full Circle (Petroworks) 1.6 mounts will lower it enough to keep from having to install the body lift. A body lift has some advantages, but I'd sure like to stay away from it if I could.
 

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Ya, greenihc,

I THINK that the full circle one from PW would give you what you're looking for. Not only does it tilt and lower the engine just a bit (enough to clear the hood with the body in the stock height position) but it also comes with the cool bullet-proof round style engine mounts.

Just to be on the safe side tho' I'd give them a call...

L8R,
 

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Hi Brad -

What everyone has failed to grasp here is that the 1999 16 Valve fuel injection and intake are COMPLETELY different than in previous years! The back of the intake manifold ramps up 2" higher than manifolds from ALL of the previous years. It has nothing to do with the ignition or cross over tube. Fitment of this particular year motor is a real problem no matter what mounts you use! Trying to adjust motor mounting positions will only create more problems than he originally started with - ie: intermediate driveline issues, exhaust fitment issues, pan clearance issues, fan clearance issues - it cant be moved enough to avoid these and clear the hood. The simplest and most appropriate option for THIS particular circumstance - although I am adamantely opposed to body lifts - is a body lift.
 
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