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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This jeep is a 1986 CJ7 with an 86 Painless Wiring kit installed and no ECU. The Computer has been bypassed as described in the article, Nutter Bypass.
The wiring kit and bypass were done 2 years ago. During that time everything has worked without any problems. A few months ago I pulled the 258 rebuilt it, put the engine back in rewired it and started it up. The engine started fine and ran but the problem I had was that I could no longer stop the engine with the ignition switch. I pondered this for quite some time and tried unplugging the 2 wires from the alternator terminal so that the alternator was no longer recharging the battery. This time the engine shut off when I turned off the ignition. I followed the wiring diagrams closely and paid special attention to the bypass but I must have something looped some where. and I'm feeding power straight back to the coil.
Anyone have any suggestions or a similar rewire problem?


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Scope boy will probably chime in here and confuse the issue, but I'm going to try anyway...

Some how or another, you have (lost, removed, bypassed, what ever...) connected the positive side of your ignition directly to the excite wire (usually White, #1 on the two wire plug) to the alternator.

Do this with the alternator plug you have.... Install a Diode.

Here is a pic of the plug kit I sell with my harnesses, but you can build it your self for less than the shipping costs me.
The Diode is Radio Shack p/n 276-1143 or 276-1144
The crimp connectors at both ends are Radio Shack p/n 64-3036, there are two sizes in the bag, use the small ones. Both of these parts are about $3.

Notice the silver stripe on the Diode? That's important.
That stripe must face the alternator.

The black stuff on the white wire is heat shrink tubing. Radio Shack heat shrink is the shinny vinyl type, and it sucks.
The dull finish rubberized type is much better, but you are on your own to find it locally.
(Electrical tape will do just find, but it's UGLY!)

If you want to, you can solder the ends on the Diode (recommended if you ever get off pavement or drive in the rain or snow).
Radio Shack has an excellent SILVER BEARING ELECTRICAL SOLDER for cheap.
(It's very fine, so you may want to double it up 4 or 5 times for quick work.)
Radio Shack p/n 64-013. 2% silver.

This will stop the problem you are having, and still excite the alternator properly.

A new alternator plug can be had at almost any 'Auto Jerks' discount auto parts store for between $3 and $5 if your plug is showing age.

Jeep FROM THE FACTORY attached the larger Red wire from that plug to the "Batt" terminal on the back of the alternator. This is perfectly acceptable to copy if you decide to change the plug.
One 1/4" 'Eye' crimp connector (see red wire in picture) and you are set to go.

If you want too, you can also pull the insulation off the 'Eye' and solder it down.
Don't forget to use shrink tubing.

There are three components to any PROPER electrical connection.

1. Mechanical Connection.
That can be crimp connector, screw terminal, ect.
That's the device physically holding the conductor in place.
It may, or may not retain electrical connection....

2. Electrical connection.
That is the actual Conductor to Conductor connection.
The only fool proof electrical connection is SILVER BEARING NON-ACID CORE ELECTRICAL SOLDER, (or 'Fusion' Crimping. Fusion crimping is not done by armatures, so the point is moot.)
Mechanical connection is NOT the same thing as an Electrical connection.
Corrosion, moisture, foreign material ect can all interfere with the electrical connection, although the Mechanical connection is still in tact.

3. Insulation.
You have to protect the connection (exposed copper wire in particular) from the elements.
'Tinning' your wire with the Silver Bearing Electrical Solder will help, but you really need to add an air tight barrier.
Heat Shrink Tubing, the kind that produces glue inside, is the best to use.
Like I wrote before, the 'Vinyl' shinny kind is just this side of useless.
The Rubberized, dull finish kind is very good, and it's even better if you get the kind that produces the glue internally when it's heated.
That glue will insure an environment proof, air tight seal.
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