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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently done a number on my 93 2.5l engine, I have found a 97 2.5l with only 20k on it from a wrecker. I plan to install it latter this month. What are some concerns I should be aware or can anticipate for the removal and installation? Any advice would be appreciated, especially since it is my first time I am doing a full engine removal and install.

 

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"If it 'aint broke, don't fix it."

a suggestion would be to find a |6, instead of the 4 banger.

Prolly more work then you need though.

Do you think insurance will cover the carb if it some how "teleports" behind the tires of a 350 with dualies?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh it is broke, some water managed to get itno the air intake, which cracked a cylinder and bent a rod (Hine sight), I was 50 km into the outback, so I had to get out, a little to much time driving and bam, the rod threw and rotated in the engine and the second cylinder came out the left side. Cracked the cam shaft.... and yes I will be installing a sorkle :)

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif A HAYNES manaul is a good thing for a first-timer to have, and a good engine hoist as well. Don't do like some folks and leak down the A/C system. You can dismount the compressor and tie it aside without loosening any hoses. Mark the wires and hoses, and it also helps to get some pre-job photos so you know where that little doohicky clamps and the freemus goes. When I did my first engine swap in the fifties, you opened the hood and all you saw was a vertical block of steel with one or two wires and a hose here and there. It's a LITTLE DIFFERENT now./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifI'm in the final stages of a bumper-to-bumper rebuild on a FS GM 3/4T 4X4 pickup, and it already had a "fresh" Goodwrench 350 V8 engine in it. I CAN TELL that the engine was swapped over at Cousin Leroy's in a Saturday mornin' "Mill-Pullin Bee". That's where ever-body comes over and we "gits it done" and then Saturday afternoon we cn' GET DRUNK./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif NOTHING was installed right: the clutch was a mess, the pan leaked and had a HEAD BOLT from the junk engine in it; NONE of the brackets, for the wiring or other accessories were in the right places or even bolted up in most cases. The bellhousing was loose on the engine, the flywheel cover plate was missing and there were wrong bolts and missing bolts EVERYWHERE./wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif SHEESH!/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif It has been a long job to really get this pickup "right" and there have been NUMEROUS trips to the junk yard. To find stuff that "Cletus" and "Rufus" tossed aside and had NO IDEA where the parts went on re-assembly. Oh, and one more thing. In a mill pillin' bee, you ALWAYS tear off those little ground straps that connect the engine to the cab. That way the gauges don't work afterward, and you don't have to worry about what the oil pressure is./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
A Jeep Skunkworks run by Moonguys/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif, buildin' the ultimate SNOJEEP!
 

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You would be one happy camper if you were to get a 4.0L and put that where the 2.5L used to be. But that would be a lot more work.
Good luck to you, I would suggest that you get a book. Summit racing (www.summitracing.com) has a great book called Jeep Engines. It will take you through the job step by step.

91 YJ swaped in 4.0L 2 inch lift.
"Because there is no reason not to"
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the info, I get the point, take the time to get it right.

Thanks for the tip on the book, I have a Haynes manual, well used to this point, I will look into the other book.
 

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I did the same swap a few weeks ago. I had the engine out in 8 hours and back in in 10. It's an easy swap wits lots of room to manuever. Make sure you take the radiator out to avoid puncturing it like I did, thats a $150 mistake I never plan on making again. Other than that make sure you have a couple of buddies around to manhadle the engine.

Time is never wasted when you're wasted all the time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Talk to NAPA or a Chrysler dealership about how to connect your chain to the front of the engine. Thats the only problem I had when I pulled mine. Unless you take all the accessories off the old engine while its still in the vehicle, you will probably face the same dilema. It may be a toss up, but, I think I would take the whole wiring harness out with the old engine and swap everything to the new engine on the garage floor(or engine stand or whatever). I only suggest this because the harness is so easy to remove; two plugs opposite the fuse box on the firewall, one plug on the firewall just off center to the drivers side and one by the battery tray. The one off center on the firewall unplugs under the dash and slips through the firewall once you remove the big grommet. This would allow you to transfer the harness while the engines are side by side(much easier to remember where things go). It may also save you some crawlin around in the engine bay.
Let us know how it works out.

Holy sh*t thats a long way down!
 
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