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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, keep it civil this time fella's. BTW, I've got parts guys at a couple of local shops who've been fantastic (took about two minutes to find a tie-rod end that would thread into my Scout II tie-rod & still work with the Jeep pitman), and I've seen plenty who wouldn't know a starter from a wiper blade. Been there, done that, hashed it out, bored with it. Back to the subject at hand:

Performance parts need to match in order to work. That could be in reference to springs/shocks, gears/tires, cams/intakes/carbs/ignition, etc., etc. Guys I race against can't understand how I can go faster than them with less compression, less lift, less duration, less stall, & stock heads. Answer: Everything on my truck was designed to work in harmony with everything else.

There probably aren't 1/2 a dozen guys in my racing class who have any idea what the final drive of their vehicle is in the gear they select while racing (fewer still who have any idea of what it should be). Net result, there aren't more than about 1/2 dozen guys who stand even a remote chance of going home with a chunk of my entry fee.

You cannot run a single-plane intake with a stock cam & expect good results. For even WORSE results, try a wild cam & a stock intake. I have a friend who learned that mistake the hard way, as his fresh hi-po 340 was totally gutless compared to the stock 2-barrel 318 it replaced. It sounded wonderful, but ran like sh*t.

Oh yeah, Ford FE motors (360/390/428 etc.) are not SMALL-blocks.

That's my ranting for now.


/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing

· Registered
6,784 Posts
They call it a 'SYSTEM' for a reason...
Carb/ Intake/ Heads/ Cam/ Exhaust all have to work together.
The bottom half of the engine IS NOT an air pump either.
I once saw an engine go from 540 hp to 390 hp because the guy used 1/8" larger diameter primary tubes on a set of headers. Nothing else changed.
I've seen engines loose 100 horse power when the inside of the header tubes get rusty and impede exhaust flow...

It's usually the bigger is better theory...
I tinker with mostly stock parts, and my friends and I get a combination that works...
I start winning some races.
I decide to buy that big roller cam, rev kit and huge ported heads I saw at the speed shop.
Suddenly, I slow down a bunch, and nothing works.
I go back the parts store where I got the stuff, and the guy tells me I'm not getting enough spark, and sells me a $1,000. ignition system.
It's still a mutt, and I'm getting passed by guys with snow tires...
So I buy the most expensive carburetor in the 'speed shop', but it was recommended by the 'expert' behind the counter, so it's got to be right...... Right?
Now were racing, and I'm slower than I've ever been...
I go back the parts store where I got the stuff, and the guy tells me I'm not getting up into the right RPM range to make the new stuff work.
So, armed with the knowledge from this so called 'expert', I change to steeper gears to get my RPM's up.
I go racing! I should really kick butt! I've spent a fortune, and I have all of the stuff the 'expert' said I should have....
Then when I crank my mostly stock short block tight enough to use the heads and cam, I drive over the crankshaft.
So I go back to the guy and he tells me I need a better engine. I buy that expensive short block, bolt my huge heads on them, and go racing.
The engine is a total dog. I'm being passed by fat kids on mountain bikes...
Unknown to me the intake, carb, cam, heads and headers aren't working together, and I have no idea what the ignition is doing, but I go back to the parts house expert, and he says it's time to change wheel & tire size. There goes another $1,500...
Now the thing still doesn't run, but I'm so far in the hole on this engine, I don't want to write it off... Soooooo....
I finally break it off with the parts 'expert' and take the engine to someone that has a dyno and knows how to fix it... More money....
(The dyno guy tunes the new exotic parts as best he can with such a cobbled together mess of mismatched parts, and throws the 'Mega-Coil-Laser-Blaster-Uranium-Coated-Plasma- Discharge ignition out entirely, goes back to your old MSD box and epoxied the ports in the huge heads about half way closed so he can get the port velocities back up.... ECT.... ECT...)
The engine guy recommended a gear, wheel and tire combination more like what I was running in the beginning, .... so that part of what he said just can't be right, it conflicts with what the parts store guy that sold me all of these neat parts said, and besides, what does an engine builder know about rear gears and tires...?...
Then on the first night out, it's just a power house, but the gear is wrong and I can't keep up.
So I change the gear to about what I had before, and to about what the other guys are running...
Now I'm making real power, but I'm breaking drive train parts right and left...
Can't win unless you finish....
So I spend the second mortgage on a new drive train that hooks up.
(until it twists the car up, then $10 grand for a new chassis...)
I can now win about as many races as I did before, but I don't have time to race.
I have more in my race car than my house cost,... and....
All my friends don't know how to work on the car,... and...
I had to take a second job just to pay the extra bills,... and...
Racing just doesn't seem to be as much fun as it once was...

I've seen this replayed over and over again, two or three times every year, for the past 20 years. Find a good engine builder and listen to him, or make friends with the guys that are winning, and educate yourselves enough to know what you are looking at when you see it, or hear them talking about it.
If the guy isn't building winning engines TODAY, or winning races TODAY, then he probably doesn't have the hot ticket.
I'm not saying not to listen to others, you may get some good ideas or some help, but you can't argue with winning, no matter who you are.

Just my 2 cents worth, take it for what it's worth. Aaron.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif"but mah single plane and 850 double pumper work great with mah 3/4 race cam"/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif

the last performance store i worked at i cringed every time someone asked for a performer intake and a 750 performer carb to go on a small block chevy. it did no good to ask what cam they have as they were told by their "hot rod" buddy that this kicks ass.

and the 352-428 engines are known as "flying wedges". you are right tex, they are big blocks. i am not sure why it matters if it is a small or big block, but i guess to some it matters.

oh well, i just sold them what they wanted, and later it was my fault when it ran like $hit. life goes on, and so will i.


/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
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