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Electrical Problems and the Cures...

1.7K views 36 replies 13 participants last post by  **DONOTDELETE**  
#1 ·
I'm seeing more and more simple wiring problems that are costing people money and time hunting for a 'phantom' problem...

95% of all charging system problems are bad grounds.
The other 5% are broken down to, 4% monkeys with wire cutters under the hood, an 1% defective hardware...

Very rarely is it the fault of hardware when an electrical system problem is persistent...
If the alternator goes bad, you change it, problem solved.
If the regulator goes bad (if so equipped) you change it, problem solved.
Fusible link goes bad, you change it, problem solved.

Monkey with wire cutters under the hood....
Who knows where to begin tracking the problem down...

Grounds...
The factory probably saved $50 per vehicle by not supplying the correct ground wires, (about $2 worth of wire and ends, and $48 worth of labor getting high school drop outs to install the grounds at $25 an hour...)

We've said it before, I know we'll have to say it a thousand times again...
No such thing as too many grounds...

The Starter is the largest current draw on the vehicle.
You have a large positive wire going more or less directly to the starter, but where is that large ground wire that should go directly to the starter too?
Put your primary ground cable directly to a starter bolt.

How about the alternator?
It's the second largest current draw, and it normally doesn't get a ground wire at all!
Every bit of current used by your vehicle is produced by the alternator making it the MOST USED circuit in the vehicle, and it doesn't get a ground wire from the factory? Does this seem right to you?

If you have a 10 Ga wire coming from your alternator, run a 10 Ga. ground directly from the battery to the alternator case. (8 Ga. ground if you have an 8 Ga. hot lead)
Brackets aren't good enough, the brackets and the bolts are painted, will rust, and bolts come loose, all leaving the alternator with out a ground.

How about those ignition systems!
Most rely on a ground through the distributor housing...
Have you ever pulled a distributor and seen the gunk that builds up on them over time? That stuff makes a good insulator!
And then the poor ignition has to rely on loose fitting, moving steel parts for a ground!
Most people are amazed when an ignition system component quits working...
I'm dumbfounded they work at all!

And like that isn't enough, most engines aren't grounded adequately.
It's real hard for your new $700 high output ignition to get the plugs to fire when you didn't spend $5 on a ground cable for the engine!

They complain that the engine doesn't run right when it's cold...
But the electric choke can't get a ground to work...
The ignition module can't get a ground to work, the high voltage can't get a ground to fire the plugs...
The starter 'drags' or 'It eats starters'.....
Ground the next starter and see if that helps!!

My Dash lights/ Radio(s)/ Heater-AC/ won't work or blink on and off, my tail lights won't work, and when I turn on the right turn signal, the right tail light goes out, and the left turn signal blinks real slow....
ALL GROUND PROBLEMS!!

The factory was too cheap to install proper ground wires on this stuff, so you have to.
CJ Dave said you should treat your Jeep like it was three or four different and separate devices...
The Frame, so ground it.
The Body, so ground it.
The Engine, so ground it.
The Fenders, so ground them.
This is REAL good advice...

Lights in particular should have a ground ran to each of them.
It sure doesn't take long for corrosion and crud to build up between the light sockets and the (marginal at best) body ground, so if you run a ground wire, you can be sure your lights will get a ground and work when you need them...
Like when you are broke down on the trail, (or approaching a sobriety check point after a day of wheeling!)

Remember, check the ground FIRST, then check the power source....
Most of us have older Jeeps, and no one has to tell a Jeep owner about rust and corrosion!

OK Then....
(This is what happens when I forget to take my medication /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif.... PROZAC! It isn't just for breakfast anymore! /wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif)

That is all, end of rant!

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
G
#3 ·
Good info TR, I especially like the part about the monkeys. I have had a Jeep or two where I very dearly would have loved to go monkey hunting/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif.

Cage Up, Wheels Down
Jeepfiend
All my Jeeps are in pieces! Except for one!!
 
G
#4 ·
I agree 100%. That is why I talk so much about using a DVM. You can find a lot of problems by measuring the voltage from the neg side of your battery to other ground points on the engine and chassis. When you start seeing a voltage differenc, then you know you are starting to see a ground problem.

John...
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, R/ARB, F/Detroit, Onboard Air....89 Cherokee - New Project

They say we learn by our mistakes.....I guess thats why we are all so smart.
 
#5 ·
It doesn't sound like a rant to me, sounds like some good information. If you really want ground problems, install a fiberglass body like I did. I had to run grounds to everything. I didn't do too well with the dash. When I turn on the headlights the voltmeter drops to 10 volts. I got some heavy braided cable to ground the dash directly to the ground cable. Then maybe I won't have to carry that flashlight to see my gauges at night.

Image

I've replaced so many parts that my old Jeep has become my new Jeep.
 
#8 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Last June I rented a John Deere backhoe to excavate for our new garage project. The guy who brought it over told me I would have to let it idle during lunch because the starter was "dragging" and it would not crank when hot. I looked at the ground and sure enough it went to the battery box, which was bolted loosely to the hood support bulkhead, which was bolted loosely (and rusty) to the tractor clutch housing, which had the starter bolted to IT! I had to go to town for some grade stakes so I went by NAPA and got a nice ground cable and some star washers(Thanks, TR!)and I ran a cable to the starter mounting stud. The tractor engine BLASTED to a start after lunch! The starter motor was in perfect shape.....of course./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland" building the Ultimate SNOJEEP.
 
#9 ·
No Prob man!
That's what I'm here for, to flick the fly sh*t out of the pepper...

I just can't stress the ground to the starter bolt enough! And it goes right in one ear and out the other on most people...
Oh well, kept me in new cars and singles for the strippers for several years!

Dave, did I tell you I got an Email from a guy that runs the 'Rocky Mountain Rescue'?
(I'm not sure what that is, but it sounds important!)
He had a picture of YOUR distributor and wanted to know how much to do a kit for 60 vehicles...
Said his tech guy was just Nuts for the idea!
(I'm just going to sell them the adaptor plates for cheap and give them the instructions, that will save a rescue crew a bunch of money, I'd hate for them to not be able to buy gas when I need help!)

The tech guy must lurk here or how else could he have found my name and a picture of your distributor?
Pretty cool, HUH!?

As for grounding, I just whipped this up for a guy that was asking how *I* would ground a vehicle...
I know I forgot the lead for the starter solenoid, and probably a host of other things....
It's crude, I scribbled it out in about five minutes...
Image


So many cats, so few recipes...
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the info. I had been wondering how and what to ground. The brass bolt is a great idea. My 84 cj has it's share of rust and corrosion, and the electrical systems are no exception.

84 CJ7, 258, HEI, M/C 2100 carb, 5 inch lift, RS9000's, 33x12.5 BFG M/T's, 4.56's and Detroit softlocker, full cage & belts, Xenon flares, Dana 44 rear, GM dual diaphragm brake booster
 
#11 ·
A great method for setting up a lot of these little grounds is to use marine terminal blocks. I originally got this idea from HarryWorld back when it was up.

http://www.boatus-store.com/mc_online/Browse.asp?ShowItem=31052

here's how mine is installed on the firewall.
Image


'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
 

Attachments

#13 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Cool!/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif The rescue guys SHOULD be using that setup! I had never heard of the duplex distributor until you told me about it amd made us one, but it would be absolutely crucial for high-reliability vehicles. I have put the photo up a couple of times on this BBS with your name, so it must have been a regular poster that alerted "rescue"./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland" building the Ultimate SNOJEEP.
 
#14 ·
Knowing that you specified it was crude and something done in 5 minutes (IOW-please don't flame me for pointing it out /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif) you might want to consider the (in)significance of that "Battery Disconnect Switch" in the diagram.

Rick -- 80s CJ7, under construction since June
 
#15 ·
yep.. as a person who has worked with electronics for 13 years.. including teaching the stuff.. TR is dead on balls right!!!!

and can NOT be understated enough.. and..
please go get yourselves a Digital Volt Meter.. they are pretty cheap now-a-days... and will serve you well for years to come..

but TR... picking fly sh$t from pepper???? i cant voche for that.. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif..

heck.. never even heard of it before.. mmmm.. and i thought these ******** around me had spewed off just about everything.. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

http://www.jeepgod.net

If you are allergic to lead, it is best to avoid a war zone
 
#16 ·
80sCJ7, here is your flame baby!

Image


You are DEAD right!
The starter ground should have come from the other side of the battery disconnect switch...
Sorry about that....
Got ahead of my self again!

That happens when I steal parts of other graphics to speed the process up when I'm doing a quickie!

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
#18 ·
Most electrical conductors are made of 'Exotic' stuff when you are talking about fasteners (bolts & nuts).

Brass, copper & aluminum are the normal stuff of electrical connections, and they expand and contract at quite a bit different rates with heat, and can release the pressure on an electrical connection.
The connections can get hot from the current going through them too, and that will cause things to get loose...

Then you can't forget our old friends, corrosion & moisture! (and rust if you are too lazy to hunt down a brass or copper connector and use steel)

Now, add all that up with screws, bolts & nuts that were made on machines that had dull and under/over size tool bits, and you have some pretty sloppy and ill fitting joints that are full of mud, dirt, the usual under hood corrosive crud, corrosion, rust and regularly getting loose and tightening back up during the heat/cool expansion & contraction cycle, and pretty soon, you don't have a constant connection, or a connection that will carry the necessary current anymore...
(Crap bolts, screws, nuts usually in China, American manufactures have more pride in workmanship than that usually)

If you use a star washer in the connection, the kind with the blades that are twisted like teeth sticking up, the 'Tines' will bite into both sides of the connection each time the joint moves around.
Every time those tines get a new bite, they chew through the corrosion and crap and are making a new electrical connection.

They also do a pretty good job of holding screws and nuts in place if the screw or nut is soft enough material for the tines to get a bite in...

You know, out of all the times I've posted about using star washers, that's the first time anyone has asked 'WHY?'
Glad to see someone is paying attention!



So many cats, so few recipes...
 
#20 ·
Any recommendations on the kind of battery disconnect to use? How about the best type of terminal to connect to a battery with posts? Are the brass marine ones any good?

84 CJ7, 258, HEI, M/C 2100 carb, 5 inch lift, RS9000's, 33x12.5 BFG M/T's, 4.56's and Detroit softlocker, full cage & belts, Xenon flares, Dana 44 rear, GM dual diaphragm brake booster
 
#21 ·
Battery disconnect,
something heavy duty enough to handle the load, usually 200 to 500 amps.

Battery terminals,
Solid copper, with lead or zinc cadmium plating, stainless steel bolts with the correct stainless steel battery terminal nuts.
Lead terminals are a breakdown waiting to happen.

Marine terminals,
Excellent choice, but EXPENSIVE!
The terminals used by heavy trucks and industrial equipment are what I recommend.
Top quality, reasonably priced, available at any heavy equipment parts store....

'Star' washers,
Internal tines or external tines will do the job.
External tines will have more surface area for electrical contact, and external tines will have the mechanical advantage for holding nuts and screws in place.

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
G
#22 ·
I think that you meant internal will have more surface contact. You stated external twice, but I think I know what you meant. This is all some great info. Thanks again Aaron! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Bret

Don't ever forget 9-11-01 /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif
 
G
#23 ·
I always check the ground connection first even when I am 99% sure it is not a ground
problem. Why, because it is dead easy and simple. One wire from the ground side of the
battery to the object of suspicion and the problem may be found; most importantly I do not
have to worry about bumping the wire into anything like you do when testing with a hot
wire.
When chasing any problem remember two words easy and cheap. I know many people
(dumbass’s) who find something wrong, and immediately assume it is the hardest to replace
and most expensive part in the system. The good part for me is I trade my assistance finding
a poor ground, short, or bad connection cost of 50 cents; that really caused the problem for
whatever used but perfectly good parts they replaced, that I may someday be able to use on
my jeep.
I know sometimes it is the hard to fix and expensive parts that break. However, I will spend
an hour or two or even a whole day looking for a simple wiring problem that can be fixed
with a soldering iron and wire, while suspecting and later finding that the problem to be a
$200 a part. To me this is far better then to spending $97 on one thing, $150 on an other,
and then $200 on a third, only to find out that I could have spent 2 hours looking at unlikely,
but: simple, cheap, and easy to check possibility’s one of which is the real problem. In my
relatively short time working on vehicles I have fixed problems in both orders and feel stupid
every time I thing of all the money I would have today if I had tried the simple things first!!!!

bandhmo

 
#24 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif That is such GOOD ADVICE!!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Always look for the 98 cent solution FIRST, before you change the crankshaft!/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif Of course there's nothing like a good slug of nice, cold, Dihydromonoxide to make the job go easier./wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

CJDave
A moonguy-operated Jeep Skunkworks in the "Heartland" building the Ultimate SNOJEEP.
 
#25 ·
If I were crooked, I'd be a millionaire a dozen times over!

I could have skinned people right and left!
"I need a new transmission, this one is slipping!"
(No, It just needed .10 cents worth of vacuum line hook to the vacuum modulator That will be $35 please....)

"I need a new rear end! There is a 'clunk' every time I put it in gear, let off the throttle, or give it throttle!"
(No, we just tightened up the torque converter bolts. That will be $35 please....)

"I need a new Jacobs/ Mallory/ DUI/ Crane/ Ect. ignition, this one is JUNK!"
(No, you need to ground the ignition module, and change those 200 year old plugs...)

"I need a new engine, listen to that rod knocking!"
(Sure sir, I'll be glad to tighten up that leaking exhaust donut for you....That will be $35 please....)

"Look at the way the engine shakes, it's got no power, and I just KNOW that engine is blown up!"
(It will be a couple of minutes before I can change that plug wire that's grounding on the exhaust manifold... That will be $35 please....)

"I went to pass a car, and the rods started knocking! My dad says I'll need a new 'MOTOR' cause this one is blown up."
(I'll tighten up that loose rocker arm and use a NEW lock nut, that should take care if it...That will be $40 please....)

"I know I need a new engine, this one is locked up tight, it won't even make a noise when I turn the key!"
(once we found the penny in the cigarette lighter, and replace the fusible link, it worked fine sir.... That will be $70 please Took 2 hours to find the penny...)

"I know the rear end is blown completely out, I put it in gear and it won't even twitch!"
(We put the pin back in the transmission linkage, and every thing checks out fine sir, That will be $35 please...)

And it never fails, you ask for $35 dollars instead of $3,500 and you get crap about charging $35 for 'Doing Nothing'....

You can tell it's been a long time since I worked with the general public, the labor rate now is $85 an hour....

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
#26 ·
That reminds me of this story:

There was an engineer who had an exceptional gift for fixing all things
mechanical. After serving his company loyally for over 30 years, he
happily retired. Several years later the company contacted him regarding
a seemingly impossible problem they were having with one of their
multimillion dollar machines. They had tried everything and everyone
else to get the machine to work but to no avail. In desperation, they
called on the retired engineer who had solved so many of their problems
in the past. The engineer reluctantly took the challenge. He spent a day studying the huge machine. At the end of the day, he marked a small"x" in chalk on a particular component of the machine and stated, "This is where your problem is". The part was replaced and the machine worked perfectly again. The company received a bill for $50,000 from the engineer for his service. They demanded an itemized accounting of his charges. The engineer responded briefly: One chalk mark $1 Knowing where to put it $49,999. It was paid in full and the engineer retired again in peace.