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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where can a guy get a sensor that will turn on an electric fan? I've tried auto parts stores, they don't know much.

Just a farmer
 

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You want the type that screws into into the intake manifold right? Summit racing has them. You might also have your parts counter guy look up sensors from varoius GM V8 products that had electric fans. Newer Vettes or Z-28's? Might be cheaper that way.

'79 CJ-7
 

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JCWhitney has them .....adjustable and fixed.....as does PermaCool and Flexolite.

If you can figure out how to match an OEM in block sensor/switch .....let us(me) know. If you can get the specs on the switches and hopfully it was designed with a similar engine block temp, rad size, and water pump output in mind it would be a clean install. I'd like this type of set up ....but haven't researched.....or figured out how to start researching how they determined the fixed setting on the things. Most everyone agreed (if you caught one of the many threads on electric conversions) that regulating the rad temp would be more reliable.....which is what ALL the sensors from JCW, PermaCool, and Flexalite do.

Again....if you get it right....pass it on.

GeeAea


Figures don't lie ....... but liars sure do figure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is how I solved problem with Flex-A-Lite's sensor (dual electric fan for wrangler, I had water leak when I tried to install sensor in the upper radiator hose). I had a custom well made by a plumber (lots of soldering). This well sits between the by-pass hose to the heater core, and the sensor is inside the well (well is sealed, and sensor can be replace without damage the well). Maybe by summer time, I'll have the same plumber re-made another well to fit on the upper radiator hose and sensor can get water temp reading after thermostat opens-up.

Nycjeep :)

 

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NYC,
Doesn't your fan run pretty much all the time? If you got a fixed thermostat from Flexalite.....I believe it's a 170...I can't see it ever shutting off after the engine gets to operating temp. If you got the adjustable does it go to 200 +/- ? I'd like to remove the rad and have an threaded insert put in there to accomodate a screw in sensor. Probably on the opposite tank that the upper hose goes to. Now I just got to find the dope on a variety of screw in sensors. Probably some place like Robert Shaw makes them by the thousands in any temp that you want.
BTW......how do you like your dual fan setup.....and how is it without the clutch fan?

GeeAea


Figures don't lie ....... but liars sure do figure.
 

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NAPA has a big selection of them with temp ratings in the books (if you can get somebody who will look them up for you). I would go with one of the "common" factory ones for ease and cost of replacement if needed.
Keep in mind you will have to run a relay for this and most(99.9%)of these sensors run off ground. If you want to stay at a low temp rating(under 220) it will be a little tougher to find as thats as low as most domestics ever turn the fan on. You can find them though. Hope this helps.

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
GeeAea,
I have the adjustable one. I love the extra HP(138k miles on 4.0) when I went with electric fans setup(less wear on my waterpump bearing). There are times(especially during summer) that fan will continue to run after I shut off my engine, but I don't mind as long everything is cool. Again, the well is made of copper and it should dissipate heat very fast. Oh, I'm running 160 thermostat!

Nycjeep :)

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got one from Advanced Auto parts from a 88' Camaro, but I'm not sure if it will work, I guess I could try. I tried NAPA, they were not willing to look it up for me. I'll let you know how the one from Advanced Auto Parts works out.

Just a farmer
 

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The camaro one will work with a relay(!)
Keep in mind (V-6/V-8) sensor on that car was designed to come on at 232 to 235 and go off at 200 to 205. Most cars mid 80's up run that hot sitting still even with a 195 (or even a 160 for that matter) thermostat.

Wider is better but taller is cooler!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hooked it up with a relay, it comes on at about 160, and does not turn off. Did I do something wrong? I hooked the sensor up the the - side of the relay. to a switched circut( so the fan won't come on when the key is off). Using the battery as a source, and of course the output to the fan. The fan comes on when the gauge hits quarter.

Just a farmer
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got one at autozone (Parts America for $15-$20) Just put the heat sensor in your radiator (between your heat sink fins) and adjust from there.

I'm not afraid of dying...I'm scared of not living

chevy-Cj-7
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm on my second one now, the first one had a single wire, and the second one has two wires. They both work the same way. I think they gave me the gauge sender. I asked the guy if he was sure it was the fan sensor, and not the gauge sender. At least I can bring these things back.



Just a farmer
 

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Swayse,

I'm not sure what you used for a sensor or where you placed it, but if you used a 160 deg. switch in the
water jacket to turn on the fan and have a 180 deg thermostat, the fan isn't going to turn off because the
water temp is never going to drop low enough. This is not a bad thing though, I just let my fans run all
the time the ignition is on. I just never got around to installing the temp switch and wiring it properly.

Using the switched (accessories) power source is good. If the fan can remain on with the ignition off,
you could come back to a dead battery on a hot day. Remember that the water is not circulating and
the fan can only cool the water in the radiator. If the sensor is in the engine water jacket, that water will
stay hot for a long time after the engine is shut off and keep the fan running long after the radiator is
cooled.


 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I put the temp sender on the intake manifold, spliced into the heater hose. I had to move the gauge sender to the top of the thermostat housing. I drilled a hole and tapped it out, works pretty good.

Just a farmer
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got it working. Now it comes on at 3/4 gauge and, goes off at little more than quarter. I just used a different relay, strange. If it starts getting a little warm when I'm driving around the field, I just hit my switch(which puts ground to the relay) and then turn it off again. The fan keeps going, and turns off when it cools down. If ya'll want to know the part # let me know, but I'll have to warn you, it cost a whopping $8.99 at Auto Zone.

Just a farmer, who drinks to much coffee.
 

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Glad you got it going!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
Move the guage sender somewere on the intake though.
If the thermostat sticks closed where you have it , it won't show hot BUT it will be.

Wider is better but taller is cooler!
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I hadn't thought of that. I guess I'll see if I can get a four way 3/8 fitting to go in the intake./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif I've only had one car that had a stuck thermostat, 95 F*rd Mustang GT with 6,000 miles./wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif

Just a farmer, who drinks to much coffee.
 
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