If you are ordering tires/wheels, go to someone like National Tire & Wheel, they usually have combo packages with free shipping. Also check in the back of the 4x4 magazines. As far as the lift goes, probably the easiest and cheapest route other than 5" shackles (give 1" lift), is the 2" shackle reverse from calmini. It runs $239.95. Your other choices are arched springs for a SPUA from 1.5" to 4" but are pricey. You can also go with a basic 4.5" SPOA at $169.95, 3 or 4 brake line extensions at $10.95 each, and a Drop Drag Link at $93.95. You can reuse your existing shocks, U-bolts, and clamp plates with this lift and add to it later and still be safe. And there is always the 2" body lift at $99.95 which would clear the tire size you are wanting to run.

TGT - NCO

www.northcoastoffroad.com

 

Hey goot you know you can run a SPOA for like 25-100 bucks if you can either fabricate or get someone to fabricate for you...talk to anton!

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs

 

make you some foot long shackles i have seen it done and it works LOL !! but dont try this you can hardly steer them like that . spoa is the way to go !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RUN IN TO YOU LATER

 

Do a 2" body lift and you will be the safest cheapest and easiest known to exist, but you don't even have to lift it to get 27's on. I have 30's and all that was required was flipping the body mounts 1/2" lift shackles and a little trimming on the front bumper.

 

A body lift is by far the cheapeast/easiest way to go. I saw where someone mentioned the bolton S/R kits... they are NOT a true 2" lift. They lift the front 2", but the rear is only lifted 1". It's lopsided.

If you're looking for a true 2", a body lift would be the least expensive way to get there. You can fabricate your own, or shops like ours carry them as well.

If you did want to do a bit of suspension, just get some 2" taller shackles. They're available from any Suzuki vendor and pretty inexpensive... also, very easy to build on.

Main thing is not to get somethng now that you'll want to throw away later when more money and desire for lift comes around. The most expensive thing you can do is buy a modification that you'll throw away later.

http://www.rocky-road.com

 

I've heard of people buying the rollers that go on boat trailers to use as a body lift. It's cheep and works well. Any boat supply store should have them and you can get the bolts and everything else from someplace like wal-mart.

 

i made all mine out of 2 inch whail pipe and whasher in about 45 minutes

RUN IN TO YOU LATER

 

i guess the way to go would be some taller shackles then. Maybe ill get a 2" lift. thx all

~Goot
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Yah it stinks and is giving you a headache it's a desil

 

I have the 2in shackles and its the pits for approach angle,thats why Im looking for prolly some 1.5in springs to make up for it.

 

Im goin to do the csc kit thing SPUA for my sami. Im only gonna run 29's but for the money you cant beat the flex, at least not in my opinion.

Will
"It aint the wand its the magician"
"Keep the shiny side up"
Tread lightly

 

What is the csc thing?Oh yea,dumb question but a body lift wont lift say the xfer case will it?Ive bumped mine at times/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

 

missed the tounge thing there buddy

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif then .

~Goot
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Yah it stinks and is giving you a headache it's a desil

 

missed the tounge thing there buddy

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif then . [wink.]

~Goot
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
Yah it stinks and is giving you a headache it's a desil

 

you know what though goot???... I have seen other guys trying to do the tongue thing and doing it right but it does not turn up it just says [____] and does not show the pic, but what the hell /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif!!!!!!!!!!!

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs

 

Goot- you can also purchase any of the items that Tim Listed from him at NCO (LOL)... he is a great person to deal with!
Rae

Sooner or Later you will be shown the light, In the strangest of places if you look just right.

 

haha i knew what he was tryin to do... but hey hes a business man just tryin to help me out hehe.

AAMOF i think i might be ordering someparts from NCO just to see what its like hehe.

~GooT~
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.
Do not drink and park, accidents cause people.

 

Of all the lifts mentioned here,You would like the basic spoa the best.It has all the best features,4.5 lift so you can run larger tires,and a smoother ride.It also gives you great wheel travel,which really improves offroad ability. I have tried shackles,add-a-leaves,lift springs...
spoa is the way!

Bluecrawler.......1988Sami,Spoa,1.5springs,33s,lockers,5.13gears,etc,etc

 

Goot,
You mentioned safety in your post. My recomendation on the issue of lift and safety all for a low price is to do the SPOA. Why? Well, longer shackle cause your caster angles to be off and that cause serious driving problems. This would not be a good idea for a new driver. You are still learning to drive and don't need to be wandering all over the road and fighting bump steer.

S/R is safe and cheap. The other good thing about it is that you can upgrade it with other lifts. This would not be a bad option.

Now, if you only want to run 27" tires you don't really need lift. My Brother in-law has 29" super swamper on a stock Zuk and goes everywhere the big tires can for the most part. This brings me to the body lift. Something you can do that will cost nothing would be a body lift. Sence you do not need a lot of lift (27" tires) you can simply move the body bushing up.

Take a look at or body mounts, you will see a nut and washer, rubber bushing, the support coming from the frame, bushing, and washer and bolt head. Now all you do is unbolt all of the body mounts and take the bushing between the frame and the nut and put it in the stack between the body and frame. So now there are two bushings between the body and frame. I hope that made sence. You can do all of that free of charge and get 3/4" lift.

But if you want to really do a lift go with SPOA. It is very safe and even helps your ride. You can do it your self for under $100.00, inch for inch and dollar for dollar it is your best choise. Also there are lots of other fancy lifts out there so shop around. Try to figure out what your long term goal is and plan around that. Like if you want to roll 33" tire one day buy and change things now that will help you get to your goal. It would be a waste of time and money to but a lift on that you really don't plan on keeping.

Jason

I Work to Wheel, because I wheel, I work.
http://www.geocities.com/zuk_tonka/zuk.html

 

I was thinking about SR... but i hears that they are not safe for everyday driving. I maybe doin some Highway usage cause my brother lives aways and its the best thing in the world to be around him. SPOA... well i will need at least driveshaft ext. or what else could i put in there?
also, brake lines, which shouldnt be a problem. Isnt the swirt brake lines a lot longer?
what else am i missing? do i really have to get long travel shocks? or i can i get away with it for a while?

hhmm anything else? Remember as BASIC as POSSIBLE hehe.

thx

~GooT~
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.
Do not drink and park, accidents cause people.

 

The CSC kit is a shackle reversal kit which also allows you to use Wrangler YJ leaf springs. It is completely bolt-on. The kit will lift about 4.5 inches and the longer wider leaf springs improve the ride and greatly increase the flex. It's not cheap, but the YJ springs seem to give the best flex unless you go over to coils or some extreme suspension design. The front kit runs about $350, the rear kit is about $225, springs will cost you $100-200, the front driveshaft must be replaced ($300), the rear extended (<$100) or replaced ($225), brakelines must be extended, longer shocks, new shock mounts are recommended.

Here's a review http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm.

Mark
1986 Suzuki Samurai soft-top
1999 Toyota Tacoma
http://members.home.net/marvinmartian

 

There are a few roads to go. You can buy a kit. They range from 200-500. This would give you all that you need to do the lift minus labor. You can make it (which I did) To do this you are going to need new spring pads (or you can cut the old ones off, I don't recommend this). I made mine from a length of 2 x 2 x 1/4" square tube. You can buy them from a Suzuki parts place or you can find them in a trailer supply store. You are going to need longer brake lines two up front and one in the rear. You can again buy them at a parts store, zuk part store or you can get at the junk yard cheap. I got my front off of a 85 Nissan Maxima. The rear I found an an old truck. I would consider getting drive shaft spacers from a zuk parts place but you can make those also. Justin Fender made his from ABS plastic for a low cost and has said they work great. You do not have to get lower shock mounts right away but you are really going to want to get longer shocks in order to take full advatage of your lift and flex. To do this there are many options. I used square U-bolts that wrap the top of the spring and I left my shock mount plate on the bottom. Again there are lots of options and things you can buy to do this. The reason I went with the Square bolt style is that you have to change your u-bolt out because the rear stock ones are going to be to short. (At least mine were.) This for me knocked out two birds with one stone new u-bolts and lower shock mounts. You will have a drag link problem also. It is going to be a bit short and you are going to have a bit of bump steer. You can cut and lenghten it of buy a new one. Last if you would like you can get longer shackles. I don't like this because it changes the castor angles and make your Zook drive real bad. But that is fixable also. I did all this for under 50 dollars. I hope this helps. E-mail me if you need more information.

jh_smith55@hotmail.com

Jason

I Work to Wheel, because I wheel, I work.
http://www.geocities.com/zuk_tonka/zuk.html

 

I am definitely for doing a body lift with boat trailor rollers! Man I love going cheaper!! In fact anybody know a cheaper way????!!!!!

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs

 

ive got a S/R and i drive it all the time, on the highway and everywhere else... it handles fine and rides alot better than stock

i have been very pleased with my S/R over the first year that ive owned it... much better than stock

Steve /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
'88 Suzuki Samurai
'99 Toyota Tacoma (Tow Vehicle)
bassmstr99@aol.com
Texas A&M Off-Road
FTAC of 2003

 

you know that has been an argument I have seen plenty of times but has never been answered...are S/R really safr and worth it???????

" Go Cheap n' Smooth or Forget about it!"

Thanx
Studly
92 Zuki/235's/header/cherry bomb exhaust/Still Building
72 fj40/crate 350/33's/discs

 

It seems to me that the front would work like the rear. and The rear is safe.

My 2 pennies.

Jason

I Work to Wheel, because I wheel, I work.
http://www.geocities.com/zuk_tonka/zuk.html