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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just hooked up the e-brakes last night on the swapped in Ford 8.8 rear. I used the original ford e-brake cables that came with the axle and here's the scoop for those that are doing this swap and wonder how it will work. The sleeves on both cables are actually a bit too long but it's not really an issue, you can just route them a bit loose. The problem is that the inner cables are not long enough and on top of it the driver (shorter) side cable is longer than the pass. side one (???). What I did was to lengthen the threaded rod on the adjuster by welding a 3" long 5/16 allthread to it. This will fix the overall inner cable shortness. To compensate for the longer driver side inner cable I'm going to use some crimp-on cable sleeves crimped behind the cable end ball one after another until the equlizer is even. These serve as spacers to take up the slack. The whole hookup is pretty simple and will save you the $100 that the MORE or Locar cables would cost.
Btw, these e-brakes are WAAAY better than what my stock one was. With the old one I couldn't keep the rig still on a slight incline. The rear disc brakes work great too. In the future I'm planning to convert to a lever type hand operated e-brake system that I'll mount to the left of the driver seat. I guess any scrounged e-brake should work that bolts down flat and has the right cable length. I'll have some pictures soon if interested.


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 

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You should look into a line lock solenoid(s) for the brakes. That'd keep the jeep put on most any incline. You could wire it up so you could lock individual rear wheels allowing you to turn on a dime. Plus theres the added advatage of another button to push.

Time is never wasted when you're wasted all the time.
 

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Another reason I went with the drum brake 8.8...The stock yj brake cables hooked right up.

Did you decide what size tire you're going to run now?

5.0s and 4 speed = lots of broken parts!!!
 

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The line lock idea isn't bad, but it doesn't solve the problem that the e-brake does. That's the EMERGENCY/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif What if you loose hydraulic pressure, how would you stop without the cable? Of course the cable could break, but that's beside the point/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif But if you're talking about adding the line lock on top of the cable, that'd be awesome!



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Thanks for the tip Kuty, they are all appreciated. I will hopefully be putting mine in this winter, the only part I need is the u-joint flange adapter for the yoke. definitely post any pics on the bbs or your web page!
big ed

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,35's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is a picture from another fellow off the JU board. This is another way to fix it:http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1372718&a=11037241&p=38414186&Sequence=0
I did some more flex test last night and all I can say is I'm impressed! Just double the flex I posted in the first series of pictures. I could go to 35s but for now I'm fine with the 33s. The ebrake holds the rig like a brick wall so I don't need anything else. Later I convert to a hand brake and it should be even better. Now I gotta work on the axle wrap pronto! I don't want to break my nice new CV shaft out on the first run! Maybe more leafs would help...


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 
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