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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just pickup up 2 Exide gel cell batteries for a great price (70 and a returned alternator)and want to install them in my Scrambler.
I know there are several dual battery setups on the market. Does anybody know of a site that outlines all of them and compares their pros and cons. I know of the Good Samaritan, Painless has one, Wrangler Northwest has one, could just use an isolator, ?????.
Any help would be great . I plan on making my own tray to hold them with angle steel for about $10-15 and it gives me a chance to use my barely used MIG. Anybody make there own set-up with a big relay, I know somebody did out there.

Looking for a 100+ amp alternator for my '82 CJ-8 (258). Does anybody know of a part # from Napa or Pep Boys that would fit the bill, or a year and model and engine size(etc) from a chevy truck or car that would/should bolt right in.

Is it a big deal to use one of the new batteries and then in a month or so install the other one. I know you should not go to a dual battery set-up with a 3 year old battery and a brand new one but will 1 month make that big of a deal(I won't think so).

Thanks
Barry Shaw
[email protected]
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4994
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif This is a subject that has been around the park and back several times on this BBS. Some guys want to use the factory made isolators, and the electronic wizards that control the whole system, but this country boy from the fifties just uses a CONTINUOUS HOLD solenoid that looks JUST LIKE your Jeep solenoid and is an over-the-counter item; and he sets up a Hobbs oil pressure switch such that when the engine starts and oil pressure rises, the solenoid gets power and closes and charges the second battery. You winch with the second battery engine off...or...BOTH batteries engine on. All the stock Jeep stuff stays on the first battery, the accessories go on the second. You connect everything with standard battery cables. I have set up MANY of these on service trucks equipped with electric cranes. /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless I've made 'em up myself.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Er....ah....we don't exactly know how to do that yet/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif. I have the scanner setup all right, but I have to do it when my "coach" is here. Remember, I'm a fifties guy, and this huge computer with all the stuff is still just a tad strange. HOWEVER....here is the scheme as the written word. (1) Continuous-hold solenoid mounted on fender inner panel...solenoid has input big terminal, and output big terminal. Use a heavy cable to hook solenoid output terminal to the (+) of the second battery. Use a heavy cable to hook the solenoid input terminal to the (+) of the first battery, right along with all the original Jeep stuff...just add the cable to the pile.. Take the (-) side of the second battery direct to a real good ground.
(2) Continuous-hold solenoid has two little terminals on it. Hook one to the "run" side of the ignition switch, same as for example a heater motor, The remaining terminal of the solenoid goes to an oil pressure switch that you tee into the oil gauge outlet on the engine. You can buy Hobbs
switches (and many others) which will ground the wire on pressure rise, or which have TWO terminals on them which will connect when pressure rises. If it is a two-pole switch, just run one wire to a
good ground. Now....key feeds solenoid (+) current, but solenoid waits for the oil pressure to
rise and to get a (-) before it can close. By that time, you have current from the alternator to
charge the guest battery. Hook all the extra stuff to the second battery side (output side)of the
solenoid. Leave the Jeep original stuff on the original solenoid, same as before. With engine
on...both batteries are on the main line. Engine off...they are isolated. Which means that you
can't accidentally run your cranking battery down/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif by using the 12V ice chest, the winch,
the stereo, ot anything else that you added that will be hooked to the (+) side of the second
battery./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif Is this somewhat clear?/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless I've made 'em up myself.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Hi Barry. Have you read the recent post from CJ JOE about his superb dual battery setup? There IS no better system than that.....peer....E....Oh...dough. In his post, CJJoe addresses each item of critical importance, and even has data available for you to use. Go see CJJoe./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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CJdave, on startup you only have one battery doing the cranking right?

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif That's right. UNLESS you have an "Emergency Manual Overide" button on the dash which closes the second solenoid temporarily. The BIG problem with those complex isolator systems is that eventually, something goes wrong, and the second battery stays in, and then when you crank, it fries the isolator. With the solenoid, frying is no problem since it's made for that kind of current./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's was my thought exactly Dave. What happens when something goes wrong? It seems it would only be a matter of time. Lets just picture all those BIG, high amperage cables stuffed onto a solid state isolator that is 99% heatsink and 1% silicon!!! It even looks like trouble. Why try to stuff that much juice through an isolator if there are other methods.

I've had several inquiries for additional info on my recent dual battery and seat posts. Those of you who have asked please be patient, I'll put something together (more detailed pics, drawings, sketchs, part numbers. etc) on a web page. Hopefully early next week (lots to do this weekend). I better go find a web page.

1968 CJ-5 225 V6/T14/18/27frt/44rr

If life gets boring, risk it!
 
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