I know stereos dont relate to 4X4in' much, but I am getting a big one. I also am running four off-road lights with plans for at least two more. With this much electrical drain, my c.d player already dims with the bass and so are my lights. I dont have a large battery to begin with so I want to upgrade to dual batteries that are bigger. I will just hook them together positive to positive and negative to negative and then to the starter, and ground, etc. Must I upgrade my alternator? Should this help my drainage problem?
Well, I don't need any info on the wiring kits available for $100 bucks. I just need info on alternators and how well these dual batteries work and how to hook them together. I want to spend as least money as possible. I dont know how much my ISP is.
unless you like buying batts often, do not run them without an isolator. most batts do not have identical internal resistance, so they fight each other to try and equal out thus destroying each other. what size system, and how many(and what wattage) lights are you running? this make all the difference on what type of charging system you need to run. let me know so i can give you more specifics on what you require.
I just picked up the Painless Wiring 100AMP kit for $100 and it basically just
includes a switch and isolator. I agree that $100 is alot for that but maybe
someone can explain how to get an isolator for less, I can give you the part
number when I'm home. The advantage of the switch is that you can to main,
aux or both (I think, have to check the schmatic).
No sure why you asked a question, got the answer and told LEVE that was
not what you're looking for.......
/wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif I have the scheme to run two batteries, but there are two problems: One is that with no bigger alternator you are just whistling Dixie anyway; and two, you'd just give me a rude answer like you did to LEVE./wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Alec, you can get the continuous hold solenoid at the auto parts, but you must ask specifically for it. The solenoid looks like a Jeep/Ford, but has two small terminals...one (+) and one (-). What you do is use a hobbs oil pressure switch to close the solenoid and connect the #2 battery. A dash button is used for momentary contact and cranking help if needed./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
Sorry if my post sounded rude fellas, it was certainly not intended that way at all! I apologize. Ok, so what I want to run in the line of lights and amps: About six 55w 6" lights. And two small wattage backup lights from any auto parts store (cheap lights). Also, my Pioneer deck, And up to a 400 watt amp. Plus a DC converter from my cigatette lighter socket for running a neon black light. I have the stock 6 cyl. alternator, and quite a small battery. By the way, how much difference does the battery size make? Thanx in advance
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Go for an alternator upgrade and just use one large battery. It is a matter of REPLACING the current as it is used, more than storage. There is just no substitute for power generation. If the windmill doesn't pump enough water, no matter how big the tank is, the cows will eventually drink it dry. How about a Mean Green 100 AMP alternator?/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
Hey CJDave, could you please post your dual battery setup. I like the idea of using the oil pressure to bring the second battery on line. Oh, and Rylan, I'm not sure of the application for the neon light light? I do recall using the wrong freeway exit in helLA and ending up in a neighborhood were I saw a car with neon under the chassis. Seems like such a waste of time. But I'm sure you wouldn't do something like that to a Jeep!
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Yeah, Joe. On my brand new 1974 Ford pickup; which we ordered special for use with the early model two-way radios; the factory provided a second battery. The second battery was connected to the stock pickup battery via a continuous-hold solenoid. When the oil pressure came up, it closed the solenoid and the second battery could recharge. All of the heavy drain stuff was hooked to the SECOND BATTERY SIDE of that continuous-hold solenoid, so when the engine was off, the pickup electrical system didn't even know those loads were there. It was impossible to run my cranking battery down by too much use of the radio. The solenoid was the Jeep/Ford type, but made for CONTINUOUS HOLD. The auto parts has them. The oil pressure switch was a Hobbs, but any two-pole normally open, pressure-to-close, switch will do. This was a slick, and SIMPLE setup. Believe me, those old two-way radios used up power like crazy, and took up half the cab space./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
Heres another post where I get to say, check out your local marine store. They seem to have lots of good stuff to use in your Jeep.
Anyway, I saw some some dual battery isolators there ranging between $30-$70. Didn't really look too closely at the differences between the higher and lower priced models. They also have lots of waterproof electrical connectors, heavy duty weatherproof switches, and that elusive large diameter fuel tubing for when you want to relocate your fuel filler to the side of your CJ.
Your in MA right? US Marine in Waltham is where I saw them, but I'm sure there are a ton of other places that would have them in MA.
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