CJ:

Right now, I just run mine in parallel. 2 extra cables, 2 connectors, 2 eyelets, 2 batteries (they can be diff kinds as long as they're both 12V.) I used 2 guage cables. I've attached a file containing most of the responses I got last time I posted on this subject. Ford and Chevy dual battery setups both come straight from the factory with both batteries wired parallel.

Joey

 

It is possible just to simply run the two batteries with the only similarity being they are both 12v. I would recomnd that they be identical in every way. To wire up the dual batteries you can run them parallell which is pos-pos and neg-neg. If you want the second battery as a back-up you will have to either buy a battery isolator setup, which is expensive and will have to be replaced every so often which adds up, or you can go with a custom setup that has been discussed at great detail on this list. If you go to the search feature which looks like this search you can look for any topic you want by username, key word, etc.. The searchfeature is located right above all of the posts in the little list of options. The dual battery setup with the one battery isolated until the engine is running I can fax to you if you would like it. This battery setup will keep the second battery isolated until the engine is running. It requires an oil pressure switch and a continuous hold solenoid. If you could e-mail me with your fax # I can send it out to you tomorrow. To find a members e-mail you can look at their stats by clicking their name as it appears in blue text, however I will be at work tomorrow and that emial address is lindasiggy@yahoo.com Include what kind of engine you have.
THANX

 

HAAA!!! I FOUND IT!

I wish I could take the credit for this. But some Volvo enthusiest dude going by TR came up with this.

The part #'s can be found in my 1st attachment.

Joey

 

That's not Volvo, It's Vulva.....
I'm a BIG Vulva fan....

I can't believe that was in spell checker!!

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"

 

OK , TR:

What kind of switch is # 4 and how do I monitor it all to make sure everything is working like it's supposed to?

Joey

I have the body of a middle aged married man. And I'm PISSED!

 

#4 is a momentary switch to kick the continuous hold solenoid long enough for you to jump start yourself.
Momentary, meaning that the switch returns it's self when you let go. Spring loaded.
I prefer an old time push button starter switch, but I'm a bit old and fat. Some of the younger guys will no doubt install neon lights and music around the switch...

As far as monitor both batteries, they are both connected together when the engine is running, so your amp or volt gauge should be a pretty good indicator...
You can install a second volt gauge on the second battery if you want to, but it will draw on the battery when the vehicle is off unless you remember to shut it off every time, or install yet another solenoid to shut it off....

Every third oil change or so I would swap batteries side for side so they discharge and draw evenly....
The primary battery is going to do the most work starting the vehicle unless you remember to push the emergency button every time you start the vehicle, but that will be hard on the solenoid and witches...

I think I'd rather just swap batteries side for side every third or fourth oil change....
That's around 10 or 12 thousand miles for you guys that need to write it down somewhere....

Pretty much this same rig with out the isolator solenoid is in every dual battery pickup in the world, and they work fine there...
The whole idea of the isolator was to keep you from running BOTH batteries down while winching or the kids leave the radio or headlights on when the vehicle isn't running...


"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"