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i own a 81 cj-7 with a amc360, t-176 tranny, dana 300, modle 20 rear. 35's and SOA. my question is in two parts. i have a stock driveshaft, collapsed length of 23" i think, and i have broken 3 of them. i am putting off buying new driveshafts until this summer because i want a np435 tranny and different axles. is there a cheap way of preventing my driveshafts from breaking or should i just go with an heavy duty expensive shaft( i am poor college student)? also, i have the dana 30 front model 20 rear, narrow trac and i want better axles, dana 60 is too much. but what axles bolt directly in? can i put in a ford 9" rear? or will that conflict with my driveshaft style. i am almost positve about putting in a dana 44 front, but what would be a good donor vehical? i would appreciate some help for i am pretty new to the 4wheelin scene.
keith

 

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usually, people use scout dana 44's front and rear for a couple reasons.
1. they are only 3" wider than cj widetrack axles
2. they still have 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and you can keep your rims
3. they aren't THAT hard to find(although getting a bit scarce)
i have seen some 9" in the rear...
if you are going through that many driveshafts, you might want to look at other things, it is long enough?? how are you breaking them?. i don't break a lot of driveshafts, but if you run them at the wrong angle, you'll tear them up
dana 60 is never too much.. just last night i watched a guy snap the new warn "super" alloy axle shafts in a dana 44 front axle.. and he was running a v-6

~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
 

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A 9 inch from an early bronco is a pretty easy swap; I put mine spring under and welded the new perches right under the existing Bronco perches. Should be an easy bolt up for your SOA. The axle is about 3" wider each side, not that big of a deal but you may want wider flares. The 9" is shorter front to back than the AMC axle; you'll need a longer driveshaft if you go this route. The yokes are the same so you use the same u-joint. Bolt pattern is the same-- 5 on 5 1/2. You'll be pleased with the swap.

 

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Could you be more specific about what you are breaking on your drive shaft. The drive shafts are the weak link in the drive train, so something else usually lets go befroe the drive shaft. However if you are running high gears 3.07 or in that range with large tires and substantial Horse Power you will generaly be able to find a way to bust the drive train somewhere between the T case output shaft and the ring and pinion. The culprit is often the U joint connection, (especialy the strap and bolt type) at the rear pinion yoke, which in turn destroys the U joint, and usually the yoke. If you are actualy breaking the shaft itself you may be binding the U joints either because of to steep an angle, or due to compression of the slip yoke with an impropperly sized(too long) drive shaft.
A ford 8.8 out of a Ford Explorer is also a candidate for the rear axle. The hubs would have to be redrilled for 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern, but the 95s and newer come with disc brakes. It is about a 1/2" narrower than a YJ, and has almost identical specs as the Ford 9" for strength.

Jeff
89 Wrangler
If at first you dont succeed, your replacement will try and try again.
 
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