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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I headed out yesterday at 3:30 AM for Portland, 200 miles away, for a meeting. I left the meeting and got to our house in the Midcoast area at about 7:30PM. I scrounged through the parts jeeps and jeep parts, and found Carls E-brake assmebly. Great, one down, one to go. I already had the driveshaft for the BostonMangler, just had to cut it down. How hard could that be.

So I get to the shop and clean up the shaft, looks nice. I took apart the splines, are pretty worn, but still functional, after all it's only a spare and was on the Scrambler for it's life, worked fine. I measured twice so I could cut once, had to take 3.25" from the shaft. I cut on the upward side of the bottom weld, used a hacksaw to make sure the cut was true and not skewed. Marked both sides of the shaft first so I'd have proper realignment and no problems. So I cut the shaft, and cut, and cut. Looked at the end only to find out it was solid, or so I thought. So here's what's running through my mind. Holy cow, these stock shafts are awesome, maybe I'll find a couple more instead of the GW ones I installed (had a pro-shop cut and balance them). I'm also thinking the 110 mig just isn't heavy enough to weld it back together. So I cut the 3.25" off the other end to find it hollow, what gives? Come to find out, there is a stub on the yoke side that fits 1.25" in the tubing to make sure it's centered. After pounding it out, I realized the error of my ways. Luckily I cut on the "good" side of the weld, so I can grind it down, pound off the collar, and use it to center the shaft back on. Just thought I'd relay this experience to all of you planning to cut your own shafts.

BostonMangler, It'll be another weekend on the shaft. I'll grind everything down at the house here, then take it to the midcoast next weekend and weld it with a 220 mig, it'll be strong and aligned. It looks new now, shiny after cleaning it up, want it painted? I have some black Hammerite laying around. Sorry for the delay.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205/7" Lift/33" Swampers/D44's F&R 4.10's & Lockrights
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif That's what happens, Mark, when you try to save on beer money and lay off the moonguys/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif during the winter months. A good moonguy would have known that./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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Hey JEEPN, where is winter harbor? I'll be moving to Portland in 6mo or so, wife's is from Auburn.

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Downeast, aways past Ellsworth, east of Bangor, up from Bar Harbor, on your way to Canada. Little town, nothing here by fishermen and Navy people. Good wheeling in Bethel, have to join the club, lot's O'fun. Why are you moving?

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205/7" Lift/33" Swampers/D44's F&R 4.10's & Lockrights
 
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Just curious, are you going to tack weld the end on and mount this driveshaft in a lathe to check for runout? That insert gets the end pretty close to being aligned, but it is far from perfect even for a spare.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In reply to:

That's what happens, Mark, when you try to save on beer money and lay off the moonguys during the winter months. A good moonguy would have known that.

CJDave
Does this mean I'm a bad moonguy? /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif I was trying to save Boston Mangler some money, (his beer money, not mine, but if he's buying I'm drinking /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif) as he said he needed the shaft and didn't have a way to cut it down. It was going to be used primarily as a backup shaft but he needed it to get home/try out the new tranny. Oh well, it's a learning point and salvageable (sp?). This is how we learn, trial and error.
"To err is human, to learn is sublime". Hey, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

I know I should have asked around, but I figured it would be fairly simple. And I was right, it is now. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205/7" Lift/33" Swampers/D44's F&R 4.10's & Lockrights
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In reply to:

Just curious, are you going to tack weld the end on and mount this driveshaft in a lathe to check for runout? That insert gets the end pretty close to being aligned, but it is far from perfect even for a spare.
I hadn't planned on it, no access to a lathe. The insert fit extremely tight, I was going to fit it as best I could and check for straightness by the ends and sides. I know it's rudamentary, is there another way? The weld is also nearest the yoke I could get it, which should help reduce vibrations. I am unfamiliar with "runout", what is it? The slip yoke is also worn, so a perfect balance isn't possible. Should I just scrap the whole project if it's not going to turn out right? I know of a few people in the area that cut down their own front shafts without any problems, wheel with them constantly (but how much vibration is there at 5 mph), which is why I took it upon myself to do this one. Hey, any help or insight you guys could give me would be more than appreciated. I'd be willing to buy you a beer at the UN-Event. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
TIA.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7" Lift/33" Swampers/Scout II D44's F&R 4.10's & Lockrights
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Back in the late fifties/early sixties we ran race cars with the same drivelines and we shortened them alla time right in our little farm shop/race headquarters when we weren't fixing hay balers and corn choppers. What I would do is grind the weld and then tap the end with a rubber mallet sideways till I could see the hairline crack of the original seam. Then I had a sharp-edged stone to scarf out the remaining weld. I would cut the tube to the new length with a regualr Rigid pipe cutter, and then file out the little ridge that it left inside. Then insert the slip joint or the end yolk (I always did the non-slip end if at all possible....the "runout" was less significant on that end) THEN I set it on a set of rollers we made out of old bearings and rolled that sucker to check for straight. We ran the heck out of those shafts and never had a bit of trouble. Hey....I just remembered...Jack McCoy still has our spare shaft...I loaned it to him in August of 1961 at Stockton 99 Speedway....better give him a call and get it back.......oh well, I still have his grease gun from 1961 also, so I guess we're even./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif Note: "runout" is the amount that the shaft rises and falls when you roll it laying horizontal in rollers or between lathe centers./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CJDave,

You and your moonguys are awesome. I never thought to check for "runout" that way, I'll have to make a jig. I already cut the shaft, but it's straight, checked it with a square on a few sides. Me, myself and I are working on it this weekend, maybe one of us'll get it right! (3 minds is better than one /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif(and that's not a grammatical mistake)) The only problem is when we each have a beer, tends to make things fuzzy awful quick. /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205/7" Lift/33" Swampers/D44's F&R 4.10's & Lockrights
 

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JEEPN,
In reply to, why I'm movin'.
The wife wants to be closer to mom and dad, and I like Maine so what the heck. Fairchild Semiconductor appears to be a
good company to work for, location, benefits, etc... That and I love Sundayriver!!

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 
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Sorry I Havent Replied Sooner,

I have been away from the BBS for a few days and didnt even see this post.

HERE IS MY SITUATION:

I am installing a T-18a into my CJ and the shafts need to be modified to install the tranny.

The rig is NOT registered or inspected now and cant be until the tranny swap.

Once the tranny is in I would like to test it with a temp driveshaft and then get it inspected BEFORE i install the lift.

Once i install the lift, I will THEN need to go spend the big $$ one a CV shaft for the rear.

I just wanna use the shaft from JEEPN to test and inspect my rig.

It probably wont see more than 10 miles and then be used as a spare.

Thanks A Lot For Everyones INput and Hope To See you ALL at the UNEVENT.

Thanks A Million Mark!!!!

Kevin
New England 4x4 Club
http://146.189.121.83/cj7.htm
79 Jeep CJ7
 
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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif CJDave /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Just how would you weld this thing up to keep the run out down .
 
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Because the end is a tight fit you check for runout before it is welded. Then you tack weld it in a couple of places and make sure that there is no runout still and final weld it all up a little at a time to prevent heat warpage at the weld and check it again. Shouldn't be a problem with a front shaft which doesn't see any high rotating speeds.

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif In the early days all we had wuz stick electrode, but what I would do is put one tack on, then roll it.....tap with small ball peen to get zero again...tack at 120 degrees....roll it...tap with small ball peen to get zero runout again...then shanghi WHOEVER was nearby to give me their best, consistent roll, paying attention to the ground clamp, and I would weld it in one pass. A single,new rod would make it all the way, no problem. Later, we had...get this...an old variable speed electric drill with an old vee belt coming up from under the welding table and set up with a foot pedal which pushed on the drill trigger. I could control the speed of the rotation. It was a great setup. We used it for welding rims and all sorts of stuff./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif We were just little ol' farm boys building engines and race cars, making the big money guys shake their heads./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gifThanks Dave! Thats all I need in my garage taking up space.
Why do you keep putting all these /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gifcrazy/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif ideas in my head?
Why would I have to have to build one ?........
Cause I can/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif and it sounds too cool/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif.
Thanks for the idea.
OUCH my head hurts now!/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

Wider is better but taller is cooler!
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Heh heh......you can never have too many gizmos DD. We used that same drill for rotating our torch table made from a truck wheel with bars welded across the deep dish side on edge and the whole thing mounted on a spindle. When we cut circles we did not even have to grind the cut edges....they were perfect. I'm a Rembrant with my J-100 Victor. We even had a tractor torch, WWII vintage out of the shipyard./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 

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A Victor?
Dave I would have thought you would have "graduated" to an Airco by now./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif
I'd let you borrow mine but the tips about 1/2 messed up/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif and a new one is too $$$$$$(I could afford a victor)
Thought you'd like the laugh.
Is Airco high or what?
Oh such is the life of owning a caddy! (whole set garage sale 50$)/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

Wider is better but taller is cooler!
 
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