Off Roading Forums banner

DR350se Carburetor

4.5K views 7 replies 0 participants last post by  **DONOTDELETE**  
G
#1 ·
I have a 99 DR350se, the carb had never particularly run right on it. Even though the dealer 'fixed it', it still doesnt run right.

At this point, I went ahead and removed all the smog stuff, and added a hi-cap tank. All I need is to know where to get a -good- carb, reliable and easy to adjust.

Any ideas?

Thanks all,

-=>Griff

 
G
#2 ·
I have had a few DRs and i love them. Great bikes with awesome hopup capabilities. They always came from the factory with extremely low jetting. If you could give me a few ideas as to what is wrong then maybe i can pinpoint a problem and offer a cure.

 
G
#3 ·
Hey bro...

Well, from the factory, the bike didnt really have the power it should of had. So I had the dealer adjust the carb (jet and so forth), and It alot more power. It never did idle correctly after that though.

Warm or cold, it constantly changes from 1500rpm to 2100rpm. Up and down about 25-45 secs apart. I've attempted to adjust the air screw a little, but its doesnt seem to make any diff whether I put it in or out (which is weird in itself).Its extremely annoying! Especially from taking off from a stand still. If it at 2000, I rev to high when I let the clutch out.... If its at 1500, my brain compensates, and I kill it.

Quite frankly, I want a carb that hasnt been screwed with to meet Californias idiot smog laws.........

Thanks,

-=>Griff

 
G
#4 ·
The surgeing item you mentioned sounds like maybe the float level is set to low. Check according to specs. Also if you haven't done so alredy remove the carb and inspect and clean the jets with solvent and compressed air. I've used isopropyl alcohol in the past to soak the carb. It works great. Rubbing alcohol is mostly isopropyl. Start from stock specs to get a referece point then adjust from there in small increments. Good Luck!! P.S. Is the tank strainer clean? Do you have an inline filter? If so, change it.

 
G
#5 ·
One other thing. If the airscrew is not making much of a difference when adjusted then your pilot jet may be too rich. Check the pilot number against the stock number. Move one size at a time with any jetting mods from stock. Good luck!!

 
G
#6 ·
Thanks for help help Wiseguy. Its much appreciated! At this point I'm going to use it as a spare. I've already ordered a Sudco Mikuni TM34 "Special Set" carb. Sudco will set it up according to my bikes specs, then I throw it on.... Viola!

I keep getting told that the BST 33 is a -terrible- carb if you do alot of off-road (and I do). Some times (OK more often than not) when I would land from big air, the dam thing would bog/die. When I would have to eject (drop it), I would pick the bikes up and take 5 minutes to restart (thank god for electric start!). No other bike I've ever had has acted like this, 2 or 4 stroke. In this case I will go with I what I know works...... :)

Thanks again for your help!

-=>Griff

 
G
#7 ·
Along the trail I have helped guys with drs that wont start after a crash. If you open the plug at the bottom of the airbox....gas will run out. It will usually start after you drain the gas. Pain in the #@#$% carbs...they never run right.

 
G
#8 ·
Morepower,

Thats very true! I did get to ride on the trail this last weekend, now that I dont have the stock carb, I can actually pick the bike up and start it right away! I noticed that the TM34 has real overflow outlets that go into tubes that hang under the frame somewhere. The BST33 doesnt have that setup, so the gas runs into the airbox and/or engine, which would explain why they wont start right after being dropped. Great way the ruin the s-plug and the air cleaner!

-=>GRiff