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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I put my haeders on my jeep and I love it, now my carb is taking a dump, well at least I believe it is. A friend in the jeeper club told me my accelorater pump is dieing. The carb to me is a mystery of science. All I know is that after a while of using the jeep it seems to not want to keep at idle, because it keeps dieing. When the Jeep is first started it idles fine, it only dies later. Also after the headers are installed I now have an audible backfire. When idling it starts to pop every so often, and hesitates very badly. This is a 225 V6 and I know by nature it runs rough, but it is really bugging me now. When driving back from Jeep runs I curse the red lights when i aproach them. The Jeep will die as I stop, but the good thing is I can pop 2nd gear and restart it If I catch the light in time. Is this a sign that it is time for a rebuild?
Thanks for any thought and answers
Dan Stewart "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 
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From what I have learned on this board there are usually two main problems with idling--the vacuum system, or the carb. Since you have the older and simpler model CJ, I would guess that it would be the carb especially if you haven't touched it in awhile. If I were you, I would do a search on this site under 'idle' and see if you can find similar situations. Or you could just have the talented and treasured TeamRush answer you with all the possiblities of your problem.
I would recommend the carb rebuilding myself. Last month I took apart my first carb (Carter BBD) and rebuilt it without any help. It took about 7 hours from removal to install. At first I was scared to because everyone says it is complex and a lot of small parts. In reality I didn't think it was that bad. All in all, I thought it was a great learning experience and I got to learn more and more about my baby. A carb kit cost me about $25 (with float), so not all that much. Good luck.
Chase Manhatten

 

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It sounds to me like he just described two separate problems.
The carb won't make the thing just switch off at rested idle, or if it does, it will be a new one on me.
Carbs will sometimes cause a 'choke out' situation, but you get some warning it's going to die, lowered rpm, really rough running, ect... it doesn't just switch off...

Ignition problems do that. An ignition problem at an idle will be just like someone pulled the coil wire.

The headers leaned out your fuel mixture. All headers lean out all fuel mixtures.
Even more so if you used open headers or free flowing mufflers.
If you didn't re-adjust the idle mixture after you installed the headers, that could be some of your problems.

It sounds like you described two or three separate problems.
Thy may be linked by function of operation of the vehicle.
(Like slowing down, shifting down, and stopping for a stop light, then setting and idling... and trying to start off again,... a function of the vehicle)

It's a fair bet that if your carb has more than 50,000 miles on it, it's time for a rebuild and tighten up...
It's also fair to say that if your distributor and ignition system hasn't been tuned up in the last 50K it wouldn't hurt to do that either...

You might take the time to carefully pull off and check both ends of every vacuum line.
If they have a few years on them, it doesn't cost very much to replace them.

The three things I would check first off are,
1. The rotor nose and distributor cap terminals. If it's 'crusty' get a new one with brass terminals. (the shut off problem)

2. The vacuum advance. Put a clean hose on the vacuum advance, draw vacuum, and hold it for 30 seconds to one minute. (off the line stumble)

3. (After using carb cleaner in the air bleeds, something you should do every times you have the air cleaner off,)
Check the accelerator pump shot. Look in the carb throat, and work the throttle linkage, snap the throttle open SMARTLY, and observe the fuel stream shot into the carb throat.
If it's weak, thready, sputters, or has bubbles in it, one of the problems is the accelerator pump or it's linkage. (off the line stumble)

Some other things to look for,

*Shutoff problem.*
500 to 1500 ohms resistance in the distributor pick up coil.
Bad ignition module.
Bad ignition switch.
Burned center electrode in the distributor cap.
Bad distributor cap or rotor.
Loose or corroded distributor wiring.

*Take Off Stumble Problem*
Bad vacuum advance.
Centrifugal advance weights stuck out.
Bad distributor cap or rotor.
Carb jetting too lean.
Bad accelerator pump.
Bad ignition module,
(real rare for a bad module to cause off the line stumble, but I have seen it.)
EGR stuck open.
Vacuum leak(s).

This is just a partial list, you need to do your diagnose by the numbers so you don't miss anything. IE: all of the vacuum lines and vacuum switches then, all of the distributor and ignition tests, then all of the carb tests...ect...

If Chris Columbus "Discovered" America (with 25 million already here), Can I Go "Discover" Florida?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Jeep had some of these problems before I put on the headers. I didn't redo the mixture after the headers were installed, that is what i will do tonight. The engine doesn't totally die, it putters then dies at a stop. The points and timinng and all of that is in great shape and has been tuned. The accelorator pump is dieing from what me friend in the club says. It just gets me peaved that the engine will run fine at first, but then after it is used for a while it seems to want to die when i stop.
Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 
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