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Disk break help, Opps,Drum brakes

644 views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  RRich 
Re: Disk break help

The 11" front brakes are also swaged to the hub - or supposed to be. After 30 years the holes get loose, or someone used the wrong studs, or someone enlarged the holes thinking they knew more than the designers. Reason being is to keep the drums centered - concentric with the bearings. Loose, not staked, they'll never go on the same, leading to pulsating pedal, erratic pulling etc.

That's one reason drum brakes get such a bad rap nowdays - everyone forgot how they work! Almost all drum brakes are swaged to the hubs in front.

Put hub in FREE position, remove outer lockout hub, snap ring, inner lockout hub, bend washer edges to free locknut, remove locknut, folding washer, another locknut, then yank it off. The outer bearing will pop out with it.
Keep everything CLEAN!
Reassemble in reverse order. Flatten washer, after locknuts are in place and bearing is adjusted, fold edge of washer over inside locknut, then fold another edge outward over outer locknut. That keeps the wheel from falling off - important!!!!!!

On the rear - IF there's a big nut in the middle you'll most likely need a big puller. Made sure you DO NOT use one that pulls on the outer edge of the drum. Use one that attaches to the studs. Rental yards have them, same as older Chryslers needed. Sometimes you can find them at swap meets too.
Remove the nut, pull it off. Replacing - shove it on, then put in the Woodruff key AFTER it's on, tapered side toward axle. Tighten oiled nut to about 100 ft lbs.
 
Good move - watch them, then next time you can do it.
We all have to learn the first time.

Don't ever be embarrassed about asking for help, that's why we are all here.

They say two heads are better than one! (So why couldn't I ever find two headed employees?)
 
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