I am installing a delco alternator in my Jeep. I have the battery and #2 wire connected but what do I do with the charge light wire, I have no charge light in my Jeep. Any help would be great. Thanks, Carl
the indicator light is important in the Delco charging system,it provides initial field excitation current to the altinator.The light goes out
when the field relay closes which puts battery voltage to both sides of the bulb.It looks like in my book that the "F" terminal (field) on the altinatior
runs thru the bulb and to a 12vt tap on the ign.switch.Personally i dont know,but could you NOT include a bulb in this wire and and tap
it into somewhere that is 12vt hot when key is on? I dont want to say to do it and have ya burn up a alt.Maybe someone here can
tell ya that has done this swap before.
The charge light wire is not required, however it is a nice option. It can tell you not only if the system isn't charging, but also if the diodes are bad. The circuit is simple. Wire the light in the same maner as taking a test light, and putting the clip end on the battery positive, and the lead end on the #1 terminal, but keyed of course.
A method of wiring a Delco alternator I've used is very similar to the methods already described. I wire the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator with a wire directly to the "positive " post of the battery. I wire the "2" terminal to "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. I wire the "1" terminal to the "ON" position of the ignition switch with a 100 OHM 1 Watt resistior instead of a warning light.
There are several methods to wiring an AC Delco alternator. I've even seen a few AC Delco alternators with the "1" terminal wired directly to the "ON" position of the ignition switch and nothing wired to the "2" terminal. I do not recommend this wiring method, but it would work.
Well, I'd like to say yes the "1" terminal is to the field. In all fairness, the "1" & "2" terminals are really the internal voltage regulator connections. I'm not positive I could really explain how the internal voltage regulator works, other than to say it's a current sensing device.
OK,just checking,had brain malfunction,reason i asked is im going to try to put a Delco on my brothers F 150 his wiring is screwed up
and this sounds simple enough.Plus i can give him a idoit light to look at..Let me ask you electrical wiz's a question,I havent looked
at it,but he also has one of the BIG GM altanators i think from a 80's Olds car.Its like a 70-90? amp,not sure..How easy would that be to
wire on my Eagle that has the small Delco? I know its a good alt. but without looking at it yet,he siad the wiring is different than what he had on
a small delco truck,thats what he originally bought it (yard) to use on,anyone know?
Also my cousin has a Dodge Daytona junked,it has a 90 amp alt. on it a small unit,wouldnt be hard to mount,anyone know anything
about wiring a 84 dodge daytona alt into a AMC delco sys. ?
Here is the scoop from a street rodder that has done literally hundreds of these conversions...
The one wire alternators just don't live that long.
If you want to convert the GM 10-SI, 12-SI, and like internally regulated, alternating generators to use on your vehicles, you will need a couple of things.
First off, you will need a 12ga. or 14ga. fusible link or fuse wire.
Secondly, you will need a 12 volt light fixture that has a controlled ground. (Has two wires, and doesn't ground through the housing or bracket)
Third, A GM Style, two wire alternator plug that connects to the side of the alternator.
Connect a 10Ga. wire to the large insulated terminal on the back of the alternator marked 'BATT'.
Connect that wire to the fusible link.
Connect the fusible link to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid.
Your battery side hook up is complete.
Find a wire that is only hot while the Ignition switch is in the 'RUN' position. (This circuit must be 'off' when the key is turned off.)
Connect to that wire with two leads...
The first, about 16 to 18 Ga. wire, travels through the 'Idiot' light, and then to #'1' terminal on the alternator plug.
The second, about a 14 Ga. wire, travels straight from the switched source to the #'2' terminal on the alternator plug.
Plug in the Alternator, and see if it charges.
LED style lights will NOT work. It needs to be a regular automotive style bulb. Small dash style bulbs are perfect.
You must have a light socket that controls the ground, as when the alternator is charging, there is 12 volts positive to BOTH sides of the light.
Almost any automotive parts store will have the parts described above.
DO NOT EXCLUDE THE FUSIBLE LINK! If you don't fuse the system, you stand a very good chance of a fire!
If you have a GM vehicle, and the battery and alternator both test good, but it still will not charge, Check these two things...
1. Check the idiot light. The system won't charge if it is burned out or missing.
2. Check the fusible link. The fusible link is a soft wire with a plastic collar about 4 or 5 inches from the end.
(Plastic collar is about 1 inch long X 1/2 inch dia.) The fusible link is usually found connected to the battery cable terminal side of the starter solenoid.
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Hi Team. I'm downloading this post as the definitive Delco alternator scoop. I recently got a delco to install on our '79CJ7, and you have answered every question that I had. Thanks./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Now my moonguys can relax/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif and guzzle some more brewskis.
be aware that the large case delcos may have a different style plug from the small case. if you run the large case, i would increase the output wire to 10 or 8 guage wire with a fusible link. i also run the output wire to a spot as close to the battery as possible. running the output to the starter like a chev is just asking for trouble.
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
i was on the BBS for Commando's and someone said the small wire that you hook up from flat alt. plug to the BATT term of alt. should be
hooked up from flat plug to the battery instead.Reason is "that you want to monitor battery voltage and not alternator output"
Went on to say it dont sound like much of a difference,but to the alternator it is,for it senses battery drain and not alt. output,and that small
difference makes a lot of difference to the regulator in the alt. Anyone have any experience with this?
I also read that those HI OUTPUT 80 & 100 amp conversions like JC WHITNEY sells,puts out less than a stock altanator at idle.And the
idoit light may even flicker at idle.Dont like the sound of that myself,but they also fail to say at what RPM they charge higher than a stock
unit,So what i am asking is,anyone ever try one of these "kits" to upgrade? experience with it?
you can run the sense wire either way, but going to the batt is preferred for that reason.
as far as the "kit" alt not charging at idle, that depends on the kit ands what size pulley you run(even stock alts can exhibit this condition). i usually swap in a smaller pulley to increase the alt speed at idle. but also be aware that you do not want to do this to you hi reving mud masters. you may also have seen those tiny import alts that put out 90-120 amps. avoid these and any small case alt that makes these claims. they will not last if you subject them to max output (winching, big sound systems, ect). they overheat and die. this is why they make large case alts.
/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
I agree with you 110% on your post for wiring an AC Delco 10Si, 12Si, & 15Si series alternators wiring procedure. Several month back I wrote a similar procedure, or I should say attempted to post a similar procedure. It takes lots of your personal time to write such an extensive procedure. In my attempt to write a similar procedure I was unable to get the procedure to post, technical problem with the Off-Road BBS that day. Congradulations with getting such a long post on this BBS, and thanks again!
If you want, the next time you do a conversion, take pictures and sent Off-Road a technical article on a AC Delco alternator conversion. I doubt they pay much, if they pay at all. Many readers would like to do the conversion the professional way, your way is very professional!
Reason i asked about flicker at idle,is where i read that was in the JC Whitney ad for those alt. upgrade kits.My 66 amp dont do that
but it does dim (lights)a tad at idle with accessories on.So we agree then a stock alt. not overloaded,isnt any worse than a upgraded
one?And a higher amp "kit" is only necessary when adding to the amp draw a lot with accesories?
I have run the sense wire,10 guage to the battery,have also used a regular battery(starter) cable from alt BATT to sol.added a heavy ground
from engine to frame,and a heavy ground wire from battey neg. to body as well.My altanator output is right where it should be,but still
lights dim (more) than they used to,never hardy dimmed at all before last couple months.So could a "good" but aging battery be the culprit here?
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