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D300 towing

1K views 7 replies 1 participant last post by  WILL 
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#1 ·
I know this has been gone over and over; and when I thought I knew what I had to do, pull the driveshaft, someone else came up with a solution with towing a cj w/dana 300 transfer. They said I could lock one front hub and the front driveshaft would splash enough oil for the rear output. Is this plausible or am I getting too lazy for my own good.

 
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#2 ·
Haven't heard that one before. There is a company, can't remember who, that will modify the output shaft to put impellers on it
to splash oil. I'm sure someone will remember who. But, it just isn't that hard to disconnect a drivehaft.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 
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#3 ·
forgive my stupid question. The only reason there is a problem is cause the jeep isn't running = correct? Cause I hope to pull my CJ to the trail also with a dana300 but I was thinking of leaving it running while in tow. I don't have that far to tow.

I have also thought of getting the FULL FLOATER...

1997 TJ w/ 33's & 1984 CJ7 w/35's
http://members.aol.com/a4x4jeeper/
 
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#4 ·
Leaving it running won't help the problem. Power being transmitted to the input shaft is what's required for proper oiling of the Dana 300. You would have to have the Jeep running and have the transmission in gear and the t-case in neutral. Jason Bunch at Tri-County Gear is the guy who came up with tig welding "impellers" on the gears which will splash oil while flat-towing.

 
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#5 ·
I was told that doing a hub conversion on the rear will solve the problem. No more crawling under the rig to disconnect the driveline. Just turn the hubs when you want to tow and turn them back when you get there. Cant get much simpler that that.

Cut to shape, hammer to fit, paint to match /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
Project '51 willy's total rebuild /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
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#6 ·
You're right Stomper. You just have to be willing to shell out the $$$$ for the hub conversion. Unfortunately, nobody seems to have found the money tree yet and for most this modification is lower on the priority list. Not to mention, some strength issues have come up with those conversions, though they all depend on too many factors to generalize.

 
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#7 ·
Before you do anything too drastic, or start to spend money, I'd suggest just giving it a little thought. Maybe open the cover, put it in neutral, spin the output shaft by hand, and see what is going on, in there. The potential problem is, that the rear output could end up being below the oil level. But, if you make sure the oil is up to the output shaft, no problem. Jason, and the Tri-County bunch have helped this problem with their paddles. But,.... I have been towing a CJ with a Dana 300 for well over 10 years (stock, no paddles). I have often covered over 500 miles in a day. I have had absolutely no problems. I just put the T/C in neutral, the trans in a gear (or park, for an auto), and go. I keep the OIL LEVEL VERY FULLl. I park on a 'down-slope', and get a little more oil in the 300, than was originally intended.
In my opinion, rear hubs aren't needed, removing the D/S isn't needed, running the engine isn't needed, and following the directions in the owners manual isn't needed. The owners manual, BTW, says lock the front hubs. Following these directions is a sure way to splash T/C oil, even if it is not full. From the manufacturers standpoint, I'm sure this is the safest recommendation.
Best Wishes.

bob
 
#8 ·
the tri-county gear paddles are on the shift collars. the shift collars and the two output shafts are the only moving parts when the transfer case is in neutral and the front hubs locked. none of the gears turn. the gears are what throws the oil around.

79/CJ-7/AMC360/TH400/Q-TRAC/d30/d44/33's/RS9000s/Herculiner
 
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