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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I remember correctly a few us on this board were planning on putting a custom coils spring suspesion under our Jeeps. I was wandering if anyone completed it and how it works. I'm waiting until I get new axles and until a friend of mine completes his coil spring suspension on his Toy LC. I was also thinking about going with 3/4 elliptical springs in the rear instead of coils all around. What do you guys think.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Jeez, Tim. 2.5 Ton military axles, custom coil springs... Why don't you send some of that extra money to Marc Sanders, P.O. Box... /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Marc
Contagious Off-Road
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm going to stay away from the 2.5 ton so I can afford an envy 4500 and the custom suspension. I think I'm going Dana 44 front and either Dana 44 or 60 rear. Tex helped to talk me out of blowing to bank. Anyways I'm going to build the suspension myself to save some money. The only thing that I'm not sure of is which springs to use up front. I want to match the height of a SOA in the rear.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I discussed converting my YJ to coils in this forum a while back. I finished the design on AutoCAD but never got around to implement it due to the lack of time.

I'm planning to use a 3 link setup in the back consisting of 2 lower links and an upper A link. The same setup that Warn and Avalanche Engineering are using in their coil kits. If you use an A arm in the back you won't have to use a track bar and axle movement will be ideal. I don't know much about 3/4 elliptical springs so I can't help you there.

Up front I made 2 designs and I haven't decided which one to use yet. The first uses just 2 control arms like the Range Rover and the Land Cruser. Each arms goes under the axle and attaches to 2 points one in front of the axle and one behind it to control axle rotation. The other design imitates the 4 link arm setup in a TJ. It's a bit more complicated but it keeps the drive shaft joints at a correct angle all the time. I can also use TJ lift parts up front and not have to make my own. Both designs have to use a track bar.

I don't want to put the springs under the frame like the ProComp or Avalanche kits. I want to put it between the frame and tires like a TJ for maximum travel. The problem is that this space is ver limited in a YJ compared to a CJ or TJ. I'll probably have to order custom springs from National Springs to make them fit.

How do you plan do to your front setup?

later
A.B.


 

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The March issue of Four Wheeler magazine shows McLeod's Willy's 1/4 elliptical that he made using Toyota springs. It has quite a bit of information for those fabricators out there to pour over.

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tim,
Check out this link http://home.off-road.com/~ebarbely/qtrellip.html. It has 1/4 elliptical suspension information and has links to a page where someone modified his cj7 rear suspension with the quarter elliptical setup. Some good information and food for thought. When I finish college and don't have to spend all of my extra money on books, I will do a massive build up on my 87yj that will possibly include the quarter elliptical rear suspension set up. All I have to syay is massave articulation. Check out the pictures on the site linked to above and the sights linked to it. Also make sure to check out the link to Avalanch Engineering. They have some pictures that will give you a better idea than the CAD diagrams on the page.

Robert87yj/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif
engine rebuild w/4.0 head done, now for the MPI
 

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If you swapped in wider axles you would have more room between the frame and the tires. Then you can use regular sized springs like from a bronco. Spend the money you would have spent on the springs and swap in the wider axles.

87 wrangler

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A.B. when I was originally going to put coils on it was going to be on all 4 corner utilizing A arms. Now I plan on just coils up front utilizing the A arms and a JKS Telescoping track bar to keep the articulation. I originally was going to use TJ springs under the frame(for a lift), or coil over race shocks but they are expensive. I am going with wider axles also. The only thing I haven't decided is what to get the springs off of and how much lift will I get. I want a good spring rate that isn't too hard or soft. Any ideas.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Muddog, You're right if I get wider axle then I would probably have enough space to fit regular springs. But I decided not to do that since the Jeep is a daily driver and wider means being slower in the terrible traffic I have to go through daily here in Cairo.

Tim, How come you're going to put an upper A arm in front? I don't think it will fit since the engine oil pan is in the way and it will definitely hit the arm at full compression. That's why almost every 4x4 with a straight axle up front either uses upper and lower control arms like the TJ, XJ & WJ or radius arms like the Land Cruiser and Land Rover. The Arms are always parallel to the engine and with proper design will clear the engine and everything else in the way.

Also an A arm up front instead of the track bar will cause bump steer when the suspension compresses. Visualize this: When the suspension compresses and the axle comes close to the frame the track bar pushes the axle a couple of inches to the side. Since the steering drag link is almost parallel to the track bar at all points in the suspension travel loop, it will keep the tires straight although the axle moved a couple of inches to the side. Hence no bump steering. Now if you install an A arm up front instead of the track bar, the axle will not move to the side, it will move up and down perfectly in the center of the frame. When the suspension compresses and the axle comes close to the frame the drag link will actually push the wheel a couple of inches to the right and severe bump steer will occur. I hope I explained this correctly, if not let me know and I'll give it another try.

Later
A.B.



 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have three designs and am working on a fourth. Looking at them now the best one appears to be the custom ladder bars (used like radius arms) that allow a lot of flex. The probablem that I saw with the a-arms is the axle wrap. It seems too weak. The other design is a four link but I'm afraid out it hitting the engine. The only other design that I am working on is using torsion bars instead of coil springs, but that seems too complicated for no bennifits. I still need to figure out the best springs to use. I'm still going to wait until my friend finishes his suspension before I build mine. Any thoughts on springs?

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
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what about using an A shaped arm under the frame and under the front axle and using parallel upper control arms for the front? that should clear both the driveshaft and the oil pan. i just now thought of it so if it has any faults what are they?

79/CJ-7/AMC360/TH400/Q-TRAC/d30/d44/33's/RS9000s/Herculiner
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 3-link (non A-arm upper link) with a track bar seems to be the best set up for front end clearance and travel only one more bar then radius arms but with a lot less binding

Jeff
'83 Toyota long bed
5" lift, YJ front springs
 
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