[108]

After seeing my last post with the custom cross member mount, I need to fix the "remedy"!
The threaded holes for the cross member are history! Would I be better off cutting a hole in the side of the frame rails, make a "nut block" (lack of better term), to weld inside the frame, then weld the access hole shut. OR. Should/could I drill all the way through the frame and use said "nut block" on top of the frame rails? Would there be a safety issue with either way? Thanks!

 

[RRich]

Opening, then welding shut a hole in the side probably will not be as strong as it could be.

2 decent methods. You can knock out any weld nuts inside the frame from the bottom so it's just a hole. Then tack a piece of weldrod onto the head of a bolt, then using the rod as a handle, thread it through one of the existing side holes till it pokes down through the crossmember holes. Attach the crossmember to those. Takes patience, but it works.

But a better way - make the crossmember so it goes underneath both frame rails, then goes vertically up the outside of the frame. Position it, drill pilot holes through both that vertical piece and frame. You can't bolt through it like that as the frame will crush, but it's a start.
Then use a 1" hole saw, drill a one inch hole in the outer rail, open the inner rail's hole to 1/2"
Drill the vertical piece to 1/2" too.
Insert a short piece of 1" x .020 tube in the frame - hold it in place with a 1/2" bolt so it's lined up, tack weld the tube through the frame. Grind flat. Now you can tighten it super tight and not crush the frame -- called a spud.
You can vary the hole sizes depending on what size tube and bolts you have, I used 1" as an example. When you fill the big holes with the tube or bolt you are restoring the strength back to at least as strong as before.

 

[645]

take the spacer plates from under the crossmember, there will be 2 or 3 under each side, weld them together, drill and tap the holes in them, drill out the frame to the corrasponding bolt size, and weld the plates to the bottom of the frame in the same location. use lock washers and anti-sieze.

 

[108]

I had sorta the same idea this eve. Thought about drilling out the bolt holes and welding in a larger diam. round stock flush with bottom of frame (round stock is drilled and tapped). Just the thought of welding upside down makes me quiver!

Thanks

 

[108]

Thanks RRich, I hadn't even considered crushing the frame.

 

[clffhnger]

I just drilled straight up thru the frame and out the top. Get some longer bolts and your done.

 

[RRich]

Tom as you tighten the bolts it crushes the frame. Even if you stop tightening when it starts to give, running it on the trail will crush it slightly, the bolts get loose, then --- OOPS? (OK, be sure to Locktite it.)

It needs something inside the box to keep it rigid.
Bad part about crushing the franme there - midway between the wheels where sagging stress is greatest - is once crushed a little, the frame becomes very weak at that point.

That's why the internal spud. The bolt tightens against the tube.

 

[Caver Dave]

A thing of beauty ain't it bro?

 

[clffhnger]

Rich, I now understand what you are saying. I'll have to go out and check if mine have loosened up in the last two years of having it that way. I do use nylocks or crown nuts on almost everything, so they shouldn't loosen. If they are loose now, I'll suspect the frame, I guess. Right there, the frame is boxed, really its two C channels overlapped. I didn't think it would crush, I'll check it tonight.

 

[645]

hammer down caver