Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I know someone else posted a pic similar to this, but couldn't find it to add to that post.
Havack, you mentioned Ford had/has a TSB out to fix this.
How/where do I find it?
I'm definitely going to do a little "stop-drilling" this evening.
I know,
, looks a little tooooo late for that.

Other than that, I can throw a herkin' weld in that area as a temporary fix.
Looks like a little reinforcement on the back-side is warranted.
And, a roll bar for running with the top off in the future.
I've had the top off for 2 months now, but the last couple weeks have seen that crack on the driver's side grow immensely.
Plus, that area is squeaking like crazy now!
Right behind my ear! Ahhhhhhhh!
I'm sure the passenger side isn't far behind.


Hey, the new digital sure takes better pics than the old "freebie".
'Bout time.
 

Attachments

G

·
Have you been inducing a lot of flex in the body or did that happen in the normal course of topless driving?

I'm scared! I definately don't need any more squeaks behind my ear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, for the last several years, the cracks have been "stable", about like what the passenger side is now.
Top's been on/off several times in that period.
IOW, that's how I bought the truck (9? or 10?) years ago.

However, if you've been keeping up on my latest adventures via this forum,
you'll see we recently joined an off-road club, and have been doing a bit of trail running now.
Things have been "flexing" a great deal more now than in the past.
That's when the "ugly" started forming on the driver's side.

Everyday running around in the past, with the top off, hasn't induced the cracking like it is now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Silicone, my friend, silicone!
Um, care to explain?
I'm watching that "driver's crack"
get bigger each day now.
Did you just fill in the whole cavity with silicone?
That's a big area.
Or, is that just to stop the squeaks?
I don't see it helping out much in a structural sense.
 
G

·
Also, a tip: go to Autozone and buy a little thing called a "NicSander." It's one of the coolest things I've ever used (but I'm easily amused). It's like a pencil w/sandpaper, and will allow you to easily get the rust out of the cracks before you seal 'em up w/silicone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
Dang, not good. I hope mine does not start with that crap. I can't live with that. I would have to attempt maybe a piece of steel welded into that area, and a repaint?????? that would not be the cheap way to go
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The steel needed to back that area up couldn't be that much.
Painting, no problem, I can do myself.
I'm not an accomplished welder though.
Fortunately I know a few folks that are.
I'd sure like to see the Ford TSB for the proper fix.


At least I should be set next year when the top comes off.
The club is looking into buying 200' of 2" seamless roll bar tubing.

They mentioned what "spec" it was last night, but I don't remember.
One of the guys (who responded to the "trail damage" post) has a bender as well.
Looks like a good winter project for me.


I know this might sound wild, but I think I'll get some 2" PVC and make a "mock-up" of the cage before doing the real thing.
I'm thinking about a hoop to go over the rear seat area, then 2 points forward and 2 points rearward from there to stiffen up the back end.

But, I digress. Any more input on fixing/preventing these cracks in the first place?
Ski season is approaching in a hurry, and I don't want my rack "ripping" the rain gutter off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,444 Posts
Mine are almost that bad, but in different directions. Ron-Bo sent me the bulletin a while back ago, just some plates along with rivets. He said he put the repair in his and it still cracked
, so dont waste your time with fords kit.

You can probably have someone weld some reinforcements inside once you rip out the interior, but then all that heat means new paint
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,301 Posts
Here's a list of TSBs, but it's "962011 - SEP 96 - Roof Sheet Metal - Cracks on Roof Panel". That site will popup an invitation to buy a complete set of TSB's for 1 vehicle for $25, then $15/yr to get updates. The $15 plan doesn't really apply to us since there will be NO new TSBs on Broncos. But if you sweet-talk your local Ford dealer's service manager, he may let you dig thru all the old TSBs & Xerox the ones you want...


Article No.
96-20-11
SHEET METAL-ROOF CRACKS-REPAIR PROCEDURE
LIGHT TRUCK: 1980-96 BRONCO

This TSB is being republished in its entirety to include Bronco through the current model year of 1996.
ISSUE: Cracks may appear on the roof panel or on the corner panel sheet metal near the end of the drip rail at the B-pillar.
ACTION: Repair roof sheet metal cracks by using the Roof Repair Kit (F5TZ-9850223-A). Refer to Instruction Sheet #6661, included in the kit, for service details.
NOTE: BE SURE TO REPAIR BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME. IF ONLY ONE SIDE IS CRACKED, ALSO REPAIR THE SIDE THAT IS NOT CRACKED.
The Roof Repair Kit (F5TZ-9850223-A) contains the following:
One (1) Reinforcement -Body Side RH
One (1) Reinforcement -Body Side LH
One (1) Reinforcement -Roof Inner Panel RH
One (1) Reinforcement -Roof Inner Panel LH
Two (2) Plates -Roof Side Rail Enforcement
One (1) Epoxy -2 Part
Fourteen (14) Rivets
One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. #6661)
PART NUMBER
F5TZ-9850223-A
PART NAME
Roof Repair Kit
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 95-14-9
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions of Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty Coverage for 1992-96 Vehicles; Basic Coverage for All Others
OPERATION
962011A
DESCRIPTION
Repair Roof Cracks (Includes Installation of New Headliner if Necessary)
TIME
3.5 Hrs.
DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. 7050202
CONDITION CODE 01
OASIS CODES: 106000, 110000
$152.73
 
G

·
Here's mine in attachment. I sanded them down because I was gonna weld 'em up, but even on the lowest setting my little welder burned right thru the sheetmetal. I obviously don't know something about welding sheetmetal.

And yeah, I've also heard the TSB is a PITA to install and doesn't prevent the cracking, only delays it at best. I wouldn't waste your time w/Ford's kit.

And Juice, I.............just don't know what to say........ put some dents in that thing buddy! C'mon man, everyone's doing it


 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
it's probably not worth fixing unless you add a roll bar to keep the body from flexing. mine is pretty bad too, i have no clue how to fix it. i need to do something about that rust if nothing else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
I agree WD. don't mess with inside hidden fixes, no riveting, no ford kit. Some 1/8" steel welded across that crack, and plenty of it. Or maybe better, same thickness, but do the inside (can it be gotten to?) and the outside, then paint.

Off topic to your tube bender...find out if you can what thickness 2" tubing the bender can handle. I know it can do .120, but thicker, bending to 90 degrees???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
Well, that's the fun of it for me, AVOIDING the damage as best I can. I like to wheel, and I like the challenge of a tough trail, but I balance that with what I think I can do with my vehicle with most likely not receiving big damage. At least that is the motto for now (it is a daily driver). I would post the dent I got several months back, but 1) you couldn't see it because the vehicle is white and I didn't scrape the paint off and 2) by the time I get around to the pic, I will have the "jeep tape" applied over it
.

We'll talk again once I have owned it for a decade (coming up before ya know it). I'm in no hurry.

BTW, someone once told me they kidded you on how "pretty" that white bronco was.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
723 Posts
Re: tubing and benders

what kind of tubing do you use to make a roll bar/cage ya'll got me thinking we have a hydrolic bender at my shop and hell i bend rigid pipe all the time upto 3" i could make a template out of pvc and bend the real stuff at the shop

larry
 
G

·
Re: tubing and benders

Based on my experience with sprint car chassis fab I would say anything from 1.5" to 2" 0.95 wall tubing would work well for the main hoop and down tubes. You could go with thinner tubing for any other structural cross tubes, probably closer to 1" OD, .83 wall. Those dimensions are on the beefy side...

1020 cold rolled seamless mild steel would definately be the best material in terms of strength and cost.

I'm excited to hear how some of these projects pan out...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This is great.
Thanks for all the information folks!

Steve:
I'll get by our local Ford dealer and see if they can find that TSB that was mentioned.
Pretty nice folks, so if they got it, I'm sure they'd run a copy for me.
Not that I would get the kit, but I'd like to see their "remedy".

TheJuice:
It's impossible to get behind that area to add a plate.
Mine's solid from the top to just a little above the lower seat-belt mount.
Unless, I cut an access panel.
However, I don't want to lose any more structural integrity than I already have.


Looks like a weld job, and some diamond plate on the outside for re-inforcement.

Muddy:
Yep, roll bar's definitely in the future now for "topless" excursions off-road.
Put the top back on last night. Man. Everything is tight as a drum again.
No squeeking on the way to work this morning.

Also, the 40-50mph shimmy (mild) is gone too.
Like I said, I'm not sure of the specs for the tubing the club may get.
Also, don't know what model bender that's available.
But, when I find these answers, I'll let ya know.
A few guys run in 4X rallies all the time, so there's plenty of experience in roll cage design.


lal357:
I know there's differences between "pipe" benders and "tubing" benders.
There was a discussion a while back talking about different tubing types and benders.
Jeep forum? Pretty cool information if you can find it.
Try a search.


Wo, Shilo:
You're right. That is a little worse than mine.


Here's last night's fix (stop drilling) after re-installing the top.
At least the crack shouldn't grow any larger.


Oh yeah. Better get some silicone in there, or JB Weld for the time being.
Looks like a great place for water/ice intrusion.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top