Toyota rear axle disc brake conversion
This weekend I decided to do a disc brake conversion on the rear of my Samurai. This swap will only work with Toyota axles. I wasn't going to convert to rear discs, however after opening up the drums to replace the shoes there was no way I was going to mess with that rusted junk. I've always hated drum brakes anyway.
Costs:
The conversion cost me approximately CAD$200. I purchased rebuilt calipers, brand new rotors, and new brake pads.
1981 Monte Carlo Calipers: CAD$20.47
Caliper brake pads: CAD$23.99
1989 Chevy 4x4 pickup front rotors: CAD$55.89
2 of each of the above items are required.
I'll pick up brake hoses for next to nothing at the wrecker.
Chevy rotors
Remove Toyota backing plate off bearing retainer.
Reinstall bearing retainer on axle.
I had to open up the center of the rotors using the lathe to fit the Toyota axles. If I remember correctly, the hole had to be opened up by 1/2".
Like-new Monty Carlo calipers.
Rotor machined to fit on axle. It is very important to machine the rotor evenly because the rotor uses it's center to center itself on the axle. It does not use the lug studs for centering purposes.
Machined center
I grinded a small amount of steel off the brake pads to allow them to clear the rotor better.
This picture shows why I grinded the pads.
Building the brackets is the most difficult part. I started off by making 2 plates, which are 4" long and 3/8" thick. I made these plates so they go up against the caliper body which will aid in holding the caliper in place under hard braking so all the force isn't on the mounting bolts. The mounting bolts have to thread into these 2 plates.
This is the bottom part of the brackets - they are bolted to the axle housing utilizing the 4 - 3/8" bolts which hold the axle on. These plates are 3/8" thick steel.
The plates have to be notched to clear the caliper body.
Here are the finished passenger side brackets. The upper bracket and lower bracket plates are welded together.
These are the upper bracket plates. I couldn't find a 7/8" fine thread tap, so I had to drill a hole, and weld a nut in them. Notice the tapered holes to allow for a strong weld.
Drivers side brackets completed.
Welded nut in plate as explained above
Everything mounted up
I didn't yet hook up the lines because I didn't have time to pick up some cheby hoses. My plan is to pick up some chevy hoses to connect to the calipers, and then reflare the hard line with a GM brake fitting. If not that, I'll pick up some GM to metric adapters.
anton
This weekend I decided to do a disc brake conversion on the rear of my Samurai. This swap will only work with Toyota axles. I wasn't going to convert to rear discs, however after opening up the drums to replace the shoes there was no way I was going to mess with that rusted junk. I've always hated drum brakes anyway.
Costs:
The conversion cost me approximately CAD$200. I purchased rebuilt calipers, brand new rotors, and new brake pads.
1981 Monte Carlo Calipers: CAD$20.47
Caliper brake pads: CAD$23.99
1989 Chevy 4x4 pickup front rotors: CAD$55.89
2 of each of the above items are required.
I'll pick up brake hoses for next to nothing at the wrecker.
Chevy rotors
Remove Toyota backing plate off bearing retainer.
Reinstall bearing retainer on axle.
I had to open up the center of the rotors using the lathe to fit the Toyota axles. If I remember correctly, the hole had to be opened up by 1/2".
Like-new Monty Carlo calipers.
Rotor machined to fit on axle. It is very important to machine the rotor evenly because the rotor uses it's center to center itself on the axle. It does not use the lug studs for centering purposes.
Machined center
I grinded a small amount of steel off the brake pads to allow them to clear the rotor better.
This picture shows why I grinded the pads.
Building the brackets is the most difficult part. I started off by making 2 plates, which are 4" long and 3/8" thick. I made these plates so they go up against the caliper body which will aid in holding the caliper in place under hard braking so all the force isn't on the mounting bolts. The mounting bolts have to thread into these 2 plates.
This is the bottom part of the brackets - they are bolted to the axle housing utilizing the 4 - 3/8" bolts which hold the axle on. These plates are 3/8" thick steel.
The plates have to be notched to clear the caliper body.
Here are the finished passenger side brackets. The upper bracket and lower bracket plates are welded together.
These are the upper bracket plates. I couldn't find a 7/8" fine thread tap, so I had to drill a hole, and weld a nut in them. Notice the tapered holes to allow for a strong weld.
Drivers side brackets completed.
Welded nut in plate as explained above
Everything mounted up
anton
