I’d start with the throttle position sensor TPS error. For my TPI it should be around 6V at idle, yours is actually a little high based on that but you’ll have to determine what the specs on yours are.

Check and use conductive grease on all your connections. I just went through a problem with MAF errors. Eventually, I got a TPS error. Every time I read it with the scanner it was at the proper level so I decided it must have a bad spot on the potentiometer. I bought a new one but had the same problem. I got lazy and didn’t grease the connection terminals. I unplugged it greased the terminals and no more problems.

 

Just to give a little insight, i'm still running the custom chip that howell burned for my 304 in my 360. Granted, it never ran right with the 304, so have no clue if it matters. I need to find someone other then howell that knows how to burn custom chips.

 

In reply to:

I need to find someone other then howell that knows how to burn custom chips.

[/ QUOTE ] I think I saw your post on JU, and Ken Gaines has a lot of information on this build... so he's the guy I'd go to for more information. Send him a PM on JU and he'd be glad to help.

 

Well I've checked for vaccuum leaks after the rebuild via propane and found nothing. I have the correct vaccuum hooked to my dist. I then thought is was that the custom chip from howell was for my old 304, and now that I have a 360 it would need a new chip. Well I called them today and they told me it is the same program for both motors

They told me to check the fuel pressure. If it turns out that this whole entire time (3 years) its been running like crap has to do with the fuel pump i bought from them, i'll flip out. I have to find someone that has a pressure tester. Any idea of a stock external electric fuel pump that is designed for the TBI (around 15 psi)

 

I think your TPS is off. Mine reads close to zero at idle. This is on a 4.2L, but I don't think that matters. I have one Howell Jeep, and another homemade TBI Jeep. I am using a Master 2000 fuel pump on the homemade TBI. I believe it is from a Late 80's Ford F150. These F150s had 2 pumps, one in the tank and the other on the frame rail just below the driver's feet. The frame mounted pump is the one you want. I can burn you a chip if you have the file you want.

Later,
Tom

 

What al do you have to have ie cables, software etc to be able to connect your laptop to your ALDL connector?

 

Tom thanks for the info. I'll try and figure out the pressure this weekend. If it is the culprit i'll grab one of those new fuel pumps. I bought the cable from Mastach They are located in Poland, but it was shipped pretty quick. They also give you a bunch of software on a CD for free. Great service and the best price for the cable i've seen.

 

The E2000 pump is off of any late 80's Fuel Injected 6 cyl F-150. It's the one I use with the Mopar MPI it is stamped on the casing as 95 psi. If the TBI is using a regulator, then the E2000 should give you plenty of flow.

 

Thanks I just checked out the MaSTACH web site.. What eactly does the software that comes with the cable allow you to do/ View the specs. What about actually programing the chip?

 

There is a program in there to actually program your chip, but I haven't and probably won't try it (i'll mess it up somehow) Most of the programs are diagnostics for reading your sensors and things like that. All the programs they provide are free to download on the Net (some have a trial period) some for model specific. I found that winaldl worked the best for reading the data. Its just nice to see your system live. You can make changes such as timing and see the effects on your system in real time.

 

Is the site a secure web site to give them credit card info?

 

You can also get that kit from him off of ebay. Pay thru paypal and not worry about the card

Do a search on ALDL cable. That should get you to his auction.

 

Here ya go.

http://search.ebay.com/aldl-cable_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40

 

My Howell set is from a 89- 90 model GN 4.3L. The cable references a later model, do you think thatit will still work?

 

yes it will

 

Also check http://winaldl.joby.se/ for winaldl and how to build a cable.

 

Now i'm totally confused and frustrated. I installed an inline pressure gauge that said I was only getting 12psi (should be around 15psi). So I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't change. So I took a ride to Autozone to pick up one of those E2000 fuel pumps. Installed it and it still says 12psi. This pump is rated for 95psi, so it should have burried the needle. I still have the same codes being thrown. The hydro carbon from the exhaust smells just as bad as before. So here is a rundown of what I've done.

Changed o2 sensor to a heated one
Changed TPS
Totally rebuilt TBI with new injectors, pressure regulator and all new gaskets
Changed the fuel pump
changed the fuel filter

I've just put a ton of money redoing EVERYTHING and it has had no improvement whatsoever.

Let me ask you this. Does an 89 wrangler have an intake filter or screen that could possible be clogged? I'm at the end of my rope.

When I had this system on my cj-5 with the 304, it had similar systems but i was running that off of a fuel cell. What i'm thinking is that I fixed those problems with the rebuild, but introduced new problems when i swapped it to the 360 with stock yj fuel tank. Another thing, before I fixed the vaccuum leaks, i wasn't getting any codes, but as soon as I fixed that i'm getting the lean and tps code.

WHERE ARE YOU RICH I NEED HEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLPPPPPP!!!

 

Just thinking out loud here Keith.

All gm systems I see during the day say 42 to 45lbs of pressure. Did howell say to only have 15? And I know you already put a new pressure regualtor in your throttle body, but they are known for going bad on those.

Just a couple of thoughts.

 

The stock GM TBI is rated at around 15psi. I have the pressure guage hooked inline just before the inlet of the TBI and it is only reading 12psi. I put the 95psi fuel pump from a ford in there so that little guage should be pinned. And yes the regulator has been changed last weekend.

 

Hey, Keith, does it have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If not, I'd try swapping the regulator out, as if that's defective then you could see low fuel pressure.

 

Its not adjustable, it just a diaphram regulator that is inside the TBI and it has been replaced. The pressure gauge is before the regulator, so it should be reading more then if it were after the regulator.

 

Definately sounds (interpreted) lean. The O2 and the code verifies it.
Remember -- a good way to remember the voltage at the O2 sensor is: "Oxygen absorbs voltage." Too much oxygen lowers the voltage.

But -- Have a very close look at the ignition system, and set initial TIMING where it should be -- around 8 degrees initial - vacuum disconnected. Leave the vacuum line off and plugged for now - to eliminate that as a problem. ANY ignition (igniting) problem, including timing can cause the sensor to "see" too much Oxygen, throwing everything off. Even valve timing can affect it - or "performance" cams.
Sometimes we get so "tied up" with technology we forget to go "back to basics."

I would think the chips for the two engines would at least be similar, - should work. AF ratios are very similar, just the total volume is slightly different.

TPS -- check with a voltmeter - at the TPS itself, don't always believe the data stream -- the data stream is what the ECM "thinks" is happening, not always reality. A poor connection or miswiring can cause the ECM to make erroneous readings. That goes for ALL sensors - use a high impedance voltmeter only. The TPS should sweep from full voltage to near 0 voltage as you sweep the throttle. The data stream should reflect that too.

Have a look at the data stream's temp sensor - unplug it - it should be interpreted as "cold." That should richen it waaaay up, even to the point of stalling.
Same for the MAP sensor - the voltage should "sweep" as you snap the throttle - both looking at the data stream and the actual voltage. They should agree.
Make sure the MAP sensor is either screwed dirictly into the manifold, or a remote type has a SHORT hose on it. A long hose, or one too big around, acts like a vacuum storage tank, slowing down reacton time. Yes, it does make a difference. Probably not your trouble now though.

15 lbs at the TB - normal - remember the pressure is controlled by the regulator bypassing the flow back to the tank -- that poor little 95 lb pump is really working itself to death trying to get it up to 95, while the regulator just flows it back to the tank.

Howell - they have proven many times that they have no idea how an engine works by their advice, even their instruction manuals are nuts. All they do is make a wiring harness, they aren't "car people."

To verify it's really lean, add propane down the throat. If it "likes it," it was. Remove the orfice in the torch head to get enough volume of propane at anything above idle.

The Integrator at 128 indicates it "thinks" it's OK, or you had the battery disconnected just before you read that.

Get that timing correct, and then again check fr vacuum leaks - being very fussy with propane. And - while you are checking for leaks, make sure the exhaust has no leaks ahead of the O2 sensor. (An exhaust leak gets oxygen on the sensor, interpreted value is lean, but the system richens up, causing the running bad and smell. It tricks us bigtime.)

Your nose can't tell the difference between rich and lean, rich makes high CO, but CO - Carbon Monoxide - has no odor. Rich OR lean misfire causes unburned HC to come out - hot vaporized raw gas - you smell that.

 

Well lets see what i've accomplished today.

Set the timing with a vaccuum gauge. (18)
The map sensor was on a long hose, so I shortened it and got teh map within spec 1.4
Got rid of my tps error
Changed my plugs
Still getting the o2 lean error (only one now)
I sprayed the propane directly down the TBI and the rpm's dropped big time, so I don't think i'm really running lean.

I had to quit for today, i'm feeling extremely nautious from all the fumes.

 

R's dropped with propane = RICH.

Use a TIMING LIGHT to set timing. A vacuum gauge was fine for non-feedback controls - close enough, - but not for later vehicles.

At 18 you have a 10 degree error - the O2 content the ECM "expects" will be way off.
Leave the vacuum line off until you get it running right, then make sure the vacuum is "ported spark" vacuum. And use an "advance" light to check total timing - not to exceed 35 degrees. Yes, that's important too.

Timing tolerance is no longer wide, +/- two degrees makes a huge difference. The timing error affects the way it burns - thus the O2 content in the exhaust. Then the ECM tries to correct the O2 error by adjusting the amount of fuel. Then you have "double jeapordy" - timing wrong and mixture wrong.

On newer vehicles, the procedure must be followed correctly - no skipping things. When they say 10, they mean 10, not 11, not 9. Yes, it makes a huge difference in drivability.

It can go so far as if they say take your clothes off and stand on your head -- do it. At least that's what I always told my pretty female mechanic. Darn, she never did follow proper procedures!

Another guy on here had vacuum leak problems -- apparently the adapter for the Howell didn't fit properly - the mounting bolts left a big gap - vacuum leak. The Howell instructions said to fill the holes with silicone.
Silicone sticks to metal fine -- until gasoline or gasoline fumes hit it. Then it becomes loose, no longer adhering to the metal. The result is leaky silicone balls in the holes = vacuum leaks bigtime.
This guy used a glob of JB Weld on his helix spacer, building up a little boss that covered the holes. Then after it cured he filed it flat and made a new base gasket. Worked great.
He had the helix spacer, but I don't see why it couldn't be done right on the edge of the throttle body itself.

Make sure the new plugs you used are the correct plugs and gapped right for the ENGINE. Only use the ORIGINAL plugs, brand and part number, the head was designed around - not any of the gimmick aftermarket trash. No kraut, no jap, no splits, plats, multi, rings, yellow, blue, red or any of the stuff auto parts stores push because of higher profits.
They will affect the O2 content as well - throwing you way off.

If you want to use that trash that's "made to sell, not to use", put in real plugs till you get it running right, then put the junk back in -- you'll see the difference, especially after a few miles.