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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some questions regarding the wires coming off my ignition coil.... ONe side is green white and ,until I cut it out because I thought it was a bad piece of wire, went to yellow powered 12v with the ignition. This piece of wire I cut out turned out to be a resistance wire of which noone has and I cant seem to be able to duplicate.... I tried some easy-frying resistors. My question.... the yellow wire pigtails off to a female bullet connector and terminates. According to this electrical diagram, there is supposed to be a "filter capacitor". What is this and what is it for? And are there any repercussions to not using it, as I apparently haven't been for a number of years.

Another questions... I drove for about 70 miles with my coil powered up to 12 volts. What is the voltage supposed to be to my coil? The dealer didnt know what a ballast wire was and couldnt locate it on their microfiche. Any way to make a ballast wire? And finally, I know I've dealt a barrage of confusing and unorganized questions but, is there supposed to be a "resistance wire/ballast wire" by my alternator somewhere?

Gurus unite and inform yet another village idiot..... thanks in advance with more to come, I'm sure.
 

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There is supposed to be a 'fusible link' wire in the alternator wire where it connects to the solenoid. Typically it is a couple of wire gauge sizes smaller than the rest of the alternator wire. It prevents major meltdown if the wire should get grounded between the solenoid and the alternator.

Filter capacitors usually are there to reduce interference with radios, and to reduce electro magnetic interference in general. They have no effect on the operation of the vehicle.

I'm not sure about the resistance wire you cut out, other than that it probably should be replaced. It could serve one of two functions. If it is in the line that supplies power to the coil it reduces voltage available there. There is also a wire that runs from the coil to the alternator. That supplies power to excite the alternator when the engine starts. If the resistance in that wire is removed, the engine can continue to run after the ignition switch is turned off.

Either piece of resistance wire can be replaced with a Radio Shack resistor, but it will need to be a high-Wattage part. My guess would be that a 5-Watt 10-Ohm would be in the ballpark.

There are several people on the board who will know the exact values. Maybe one will provide the answer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your response.... Very helpful. I drove about eighty miles without the resistor wire in between the ignition fed wire(yellow) and the green/white wire to my coil. I was given the impression that I should have fried my coil and what-not.... but I don't feel like I kicked my dog anymore... Thanks. Any more last minute thoughts... feel free to send them my way....Thanks a bunch.
 

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I think you're probably a little lucky - one coil, over easy, hash browns on the side.

I am really surprised that no one has jumped in with the right values for the resistor. Maybe a dealer could tell you.
 

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1.35? That hardly seems like it would make a significant difference. Does your friendly local Radio shack carry anything like that? I don't think I've ever used a resistor lower than 5 Ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A mechanic at work told me that I could run my coil to 12 volts and not worry.... He said the ballast wire was a safety precaution and not a necessity... So will my coil fry or not fry without this ballast wire hooked up.... hmmmm
 

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If it were mine, I'd put it back. It probably won't make the difference between frying the coil or not. On the other hand, if the mechanic is right, and it is a safety device, why not be safe? I can't see that you have anything to gain by not having it.
 
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