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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I got my jeep setup for hydrolic clutch. It is a T-90 tranny and buick 4.1L V6. When I first was driving the jeep the setup made no noise. I since had to take the tranny off and balance flywheel. I put everything back. At first I noticed it was hard using the clutch. It would grab and stick and sometimes just let go. I looked underneath and noticed that the fork was off the pivot. I knocked it back on and titghtned the pushrod to the fork just enough to keep it from rattling. The clutch works fine. It engages and disengages just fine, but when i am driving there is a high pitch metallic whine. I will push down on the pedal a little and it will cease. Let go of the pedal and it comes back. I tightend the pushrod a little to try andeliminate the squeal, but it does not work.It seems louder at idel, but I could be wrong, because I have glasspacks and they override alot of sounds. I believe it is the throwout bearing, but it is brand new. I am thinking maybe i bent the hold down tangs on the fork and it is the fork rubbing on the pivot. I looked into the bellhousing and everything seems kosher.I did not grease up the pivot point where the fork contact the bellhousing nipple. Is there any other things to look at? How long will a throwout bearing last like this? Will it maybe cure itself? I spend a little while tonight banging the fork and twisting it to see if realigns itself. When I reinstalled the tranny and clutch I did align everything up with an old T90 input shaft. I am trying to avoid pulling everything part again. And we have a big trip with my club this weekend. My friend said it might be that I did not lube the bearing retainer.
Thanks for the help

Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "CAloosa Jeepers" member

 
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Can you see the bearing spinning ? Is the fork hooked on the bearing the right way? on chevy borg&beck type you can do it wrong. Maybe you should back-off on the rod and add a return spring, to make sure the bearing is clear of the fingers.
Some newer cars ride the clutch (bearing)up to 12 lbs. all the time, but it may be a different style of bearing...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't looked at with the jeep running. My headers are outside frame typpe and they really heat my face up. I don't have the borg & beck I have the diaphram type. The borg and beck are the three finger type. I have the multiple finger clutch. I know that with pressure the noise goes away, but i don't know how much pressure is good. Everything seems to be ok looking inside.

Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 

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Dan-
You know it's a bearing/fork problem because it goes away once you engage them slightly.
It could be a wrong fork or a wrong sized release bearing that would tend to 'cock' the bearing.
But my first thought is that this style of external slave demands a stiff return spring to keep the release bearing off the clutch forks.
This also helps keep the 'self adjusting' feature of this setup functional.
Basically you should have at least 1/16" over all clearance between the release (throw out) bearing around the circumference of the clutch's arms.
The heavy spring holds the fork off the clutch arms to prevent the bearing from 'racing' with out load (source of whine?) all the time.
The spring should be in line with the trannie shaft center line, the fork's pivot, and the slave's rod ...
Good luck.
It should take longer than a weekend to totally crap out a new release bearing.
But just in case, I'd toss in a tool box and an extra one and go have fun ...

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jaffer,
My setup for the hydrolic clutch is different from yours. I had to use a pull type slave cylinder. I do not have a return spring for the slave, but i do not think it will be hard to put on on. I was going to put one on my pedal, because there is one there, but i guess i will put one in both areas. The fork is correct and to is the bearing. This setup worked fine when i first installed it, but it started whining after i pulled the tranny from the jeep and reinstalled it. I did not do anything different. Only thing that was wrong was that the fork was off the pivot and i tried to drive it, and maybe i bent it. How much pressure can i put on the fork? I tried to put some more pressure on the fork, by turning the adjustment screws on the slave cylinder rod to the fork. I am thinking about trying to put pressure on it, because when i do press the pedal down it stops, i am just dont' want to burn out the clutch.
Thanks
Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 

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"Only thing that was wrong was that the fork was off the pivot and i tried to drive it, and maybe i bent it. How much pressure can i put on the fork? I tried to put some more pressure on the fork, by turning the adjustment screws on the slave cylinder rod to the fork. I am thinking about trying to put pressure on it, because when i do press the pedal down it stops, i am just dont' want to burn out the clutch."
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Dan-
Definately add a good return spring to the FORK.
You know ya got something cock-eyed from your statement (above).
Before you add the big, external spring, make certain the ball is in place ...
and you don't need to worry about ruining the pressure plate as long as you have some 'rattle' in the fork so you know the bearing isn't 'riding' the fingers (before you add the return spring).
My spring was strong enough so I can not manually 'rattle' the fork with it installed but I definately have some 'slop' with out the spring and slave rod installed.
In fact, I just went all through this again when I changed out my T-5 bell housing for an earlier T-1150/176 bell housing to accomidate an NV4500.
The slave rod's angle of approach changed with this housing swap and I had to add an adapper plate to lower the slave a little...
***********
Doesn't your style of fork/bellhousing have a smaller spring that draws the fork down onto the ball ??? ... this could be the problem ... you could have popped this small spring off which could be a continuing source of problems.
***********

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jaffer,
I got the pival ball in place. The little fork that holds the clutch fork to the pivot ball seems OK. It is on the fork and seems in fine shape I did adjust the slave onto the fork so that there is not rattle. Maybe i should loosen it and put a spring there and get rid of the rattle. When i get home i will disconnet the slave from the fork and see if the whine is still there.
Thank you for the help
Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jaffer and Dirtrod,
I got the whine to stop. I loosened the slave pushrod so that the fork can wiggle. It is gone, now i can hear the fork rattling while driving, so i have to tweak it to be quiet. I am going to put a spring down there to try to keep it quiet also. Thanks for the help

Dan Stewart 1963 CJ5 "Caloosa Jeepers" member

 

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Good job, Dan.
Now do yourself a favor and leave the adjustment as it is and KEEP THE LITTLE RATTLE and ADD A SPRING!
The looseness is to leave enough clearnence to keep the race off the clutch. The slave should 'self adjust' the pushrod (if it acts like the push type).
The external spring will help keep the bearing off the clutch AND snug the fork back so it shouldn't rattle!
Perfect! ... /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 
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