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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The oil line to the center cylinder fell off last weekend while out riding, resulting in a SMOKED piston. Cooked the piston pretty good, scored the cylinder wall on the jug pretty good. I've got the jug off and in the machine getting bored as we speak.

How do I clean all the piston, ring, and cylinder wall chips / shavings out of the bottom of the crank case? The guy at the machine shop said I should "split the case" and then proceded to take me to school saying that I have to pull the clutch off with a gear puller, use a steering wheel puller to pull the pull-chord side apart. By the time he got to talking about the ignition and timing I was pretty lost.

This is my first sled and I haven't ever done a thing to a 2-stroke. I've been through a bunch of small block Chevy's, and realize that not much of that wealth of knowledge applies here.

Can anyone give me a road map about how to clean out the bottom of the crankcase, flush the bearings, and whatever else I should do to make sure this thing goes back together properly?

Are there drain holes in the bottom of the case, so I can flush if with gas&oil mix or some other solvent?

Thanks.

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If you don't have the tools take it to your machinist (if they do that stuff). You'll need a clutch puller for the clutch (obviously), the motor will have to be out of the machine, you'll need a flywheel puller for the magneto side, and you'll want to have a Clymer manual for all the specifications ($20). Then you'll need some loctite non-shimming gasket material (red plastic tube at napa) and the surface prep spray (primer). I don't remeber the loctite numbers but I have them at home. It's a bit of work but an average garage Joe can do it (particularly where you're familiar with this stuff). Just be sure to mark the timing before you remove the philips screws (under the flywheel).

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have all the tools, just unfamiliar with snowmobiles. Any information is greatly appreciated. Where can I get one of the manuals with the specifications in it - dealer or parts dept?

Do I really need to pull the engine and split the case or is it possible to clean any junk out the case without going through the trouble?

 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
There's not much room to get into the base (past the crank and rod), you could flush it with gas but you risk washing stuff into the bearings if there was none there to begin with. Additionally, the oil pump drive mechanism is in the base of the center cylinder, I wouldn't want to get stuff washed into that.

You can get at the mount bolts from under the machine. Then you can lift the base and the aluminum mounts, and the front mount brackets out with it. I found on my old 650 that by taking the front mount brackets out I avoided changing the motor alignment (although I still double checked it). Dealer should have the manual, try Dennis Kirk, too.

 
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