[Guest]

AM GETTING READY TO PUT A 3-INCH BODY LIFT ON MY 82 CJ7..
BESIDES THE FAN SUROUD WHAT OTHER MODIFICATIONS CAN I
EXPECT TO RUN INTO TO..thanks

 

[1830]

1) FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE A BIT MORE THOROUGHLY, PLEASE

2) STOP FRIGGIN TYPING IN ALL CAPS, YOU'RE SHOUTING AT US.

don't think i'm being rude. the all caps thing is just a real big pet peeve of mine. *phew.* Auto or manual trans? With an auto you'll have issues with the shifter linkage, perhaps. Manual you'll have issues with the shifter hitting the tub, perhaps.

Steering column? Just think simple. Think things that are attached to the body somewhere.

welcome to the board!

 

[Jim_Lou]

Every part that spans the body and frame will need attention: Fuel filler hoses, clutch linkage, brake lines, speedo cable, parking brake cable, shifter . . .

The cables might not require anything other than moving around a little. The clutch linkage will require special attention.

 

[Guest]

thanks for the replys..sorry about the capitals..
i have a 82 Cj7..full width 44's..4 inch lift.2-inch
shackles spring under..with 33's..i quess my main concern
was my steering rod and clutch linkage..all info helps..thanks

 

[jamgood96]

Might I ask why you're opting for a 3" body lift?

 

[Guest]

you have a 4" lift and 2" shackle lift. now your wanting to add 3 inch body lift. I'm with jamgood96 why are you wanting this? a little insight may help us find a better solution. such as dump the 2 inch shackles for some 0 lift ones and go spring over.

 

[995]

My 82 CJ7 was not that hard to do. I have a hyd. clutch and all I had to do is pull the hose tighter,or down. The fan cleared on my 2"body lift. The hoses were tight,so with 3" you will be looking at hose problems. The shifter's on my jeep needed to be worked on a little. The shifter holes had to be cut open with a sawzall,and new boots had to be fitted over the bigger holes, both the t-case and transmission shifter. The other problem would be that the shifter will be 3"shorter than it is with out the body lift. I would like to know what size tire would you like to run with this amount of lift? The last thing I would like to tell you is that I had a tough time with a few of the body bolts,the square nuts broke loose from the body on a few mounts on mine,I had to cut 2 holes in the floor by the front seat to get the bolts out. The only way I could fix the problem was to put a new nut on top and tighten it up. I just made a 3 sided hole and folded the steal up to get to the nut and folded it back down and put some silicone over it.

 

[517]

The mechanical clutch linkage will need to be lengthened by 3" (cut and weld) and the pivot point on the body dropped down 3" with a piece of angle iron with 3 holes in it.

The steering linkage will need to be lengthened by removing the plastic that was injected between the solid and hollow shaft, at the point they overlap. You will see two small holes where they probably injected it at the overlap. Easiest way is to heat th overlap with a propane torch and melt out the plastic. Then a vicegrip clamped to the shaft and strike it with a hammer to lengthen it. There is a sort of bearing assembly under a boot at the steering box. It is made like a u joint inside a metal tulip. You need to adjust the length of the steering shaft so that it is properly engaged. What is properly engaged? I'm not sure. But for safety I would err on the side of caution and have it over half way into the tulip. My Dick Cepek kit included a couple of small cotter pins. No instructions, but my guess is that you redrill the holes all the way through the overlap and install the cotter pins to prevent the shaft from moving and changing length. I did not do this, but I note that the kit did come with two cotter pins. The rest is speculation on my part.

 

[Guest]

BIG THANKS..to everyone who replyed with info..
the reason i don't go with spring over is that it
drives so good when on blacktop i don't want to take
a chance it will change.. i have a good idea of what i
am looking at now with a body lift.."THANKS AGAIN"