Try here:

Wiring Diagrams

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/40BEER.gif
Dale

 

Ask and you shall recieve. I googled the snot out of wiring diagrams and never got that one to hit. Thanks

 

It's a good thing Dale found that for you. I have the '78 diagram and, as I suspected, it's nothing like the '75. Probably eight times as much stuff on it. It's hard to imagine how things could have gotten so complicated so quickly.

 

Here is the original schematic I merged into one picture to keep from hunting down the wires over the spine.

http://www.luanjp.com/mods/electrical/BulkheadConnector/75-75Merged.jpg

Do you want directions for just the push button for the starter or a switch to turn the ignition Off and ON also.

If you just want the push button look for a light blue wire comming off the back of the old ignition switch. Connect one side of the push button to this wire and connect the other side of the push button to a switched hot point.

 

[ QUOTE ]
It's a good thing Dale found that for you. I have the '78 diagram and, as I suspected, it's nothing like the '75. Probably eight times as much stuff on it. It's hard to imagine how things could have gotten so complicated so quickly.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm not taking any credit... Pretty sure that Larry posted the link first (may not have been here).

As for the complicated fast... In 1972 I sold gas at less than $0.60/gallon and it had lead in it. By 1976 I owned an "Unleaded Only" Oldsmobile and the price per gallon had gone up by nearly half.

Was good to get the lead out. Engines last much longer too.

Who the heck said "Necessity is the mother of invention"?

Ahhh then came fuel injection and some really complicated crap.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/40BEER.gif
Dale

 

I'm not completely sure what he needs. The Jeep had been 'almost' stolen before he got it and they busted up the ignition switch trying to take it. It may be already wired but its so rigged, he can't hardly tell without the diagram. PO made a lot of electrical "modifications" if you know what I mean. Ultimately he may have to go with a Painless but he needs to start it for now.

 

The diagram is quite plain... so let me make a suggestion that may help, and it's cheap to do.

Get yourself a piece of plywood (4'X8'works great). Then cover it with butcher paper that you can write on.

Now completely remove the wiring harness.

Attach the fuse box onto the plywood and start separating the wires into circuits that can be stretched out on the plywood.

You then start affixing the wiring to the plywood and labeling on the paper what the circuit is for.

It's an easy way to see how the wiring lays out, and to where....

It's like following a road map. In fact, if you look at a painless wiring diagram you'll see this type of process used.

When you've got the harness termination points identified you can then tie up the harness into a loom, and cover with plastic sheathing to make it dressed.

Also, Moses Ludel's The Jeep CJ Rebuilders Manual, 1972 - 1986 has a good diagram of the CJ5 (1972) wiring harness. It would go a long way in helping you to understand the layout, what goes where, what plugs into what...

Trust me... it's not as complicated as it seems.

 

We still do this were I work

Here is a small harness we make:

Plywood to mount the drawing, use nails in the bends, Springs to hold loose ends until the terminas are atached.

But we use an old technique of lacing the wire together to save room. You can also use wire ties or plastic covering.

 

Good Pic John.

Loom making can be a mystery to some.

Can you better describe the lacing technique so it's easier for the great unwashed to understand how to bundle the wiring?

 

I'll get some pictures but there is a good presintation given here:
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14176/

The mystery is in making the loop and keeping it tight as you move.

 

That's what 'Zip' ties are for.
Why do you think they call them 'Wire Ties'...

When you are first building a harness, use the 'Twist Ties' out of the trash bag liner box.
You can open and close these a dozen times if needed.

 

We tried zip ties but the lock catches on the edges of cage assemblies or other parts even on themselves. It also makes the harness stiffer which might be good in a few cases but not all.

We use lacing were ever the harness has to move as in a service loop or is visable to the eye. But we use wire tie's were the harness remains still.

 

I see your point!

I use zip ties when I'm laying one out, then I use tape or spiral wrap when it's time to thread it into place.