Did you install the mounting plates, from the vechile you got the pedal assy
from, when you mounted the pedals? All pedal assy I've seen have a mounting
plate on the inside and outside. I believe this is to reenforce the
I normally take a piece of 1/8-inch steel sheet, and reinforce the entire firewall area... something like 10 or 12-inches square, carefully cut-out to match all of the original contours. And, I have been known to use another piece of this sheet on the inside, to sandwich the original firewall. I use several small (1/4-inch) bolts around the perimeter. It spreads out the load. But, I'm still down on hanging pedals. I have done a few, using aftermarket pedal assemblies, like from Summit, and it has worked great. I've tried to do a few more, using factory pedal assemblies, and they have all turned out unsatisfactory. I've even had a case where I got the pedal assembly very 'stiff' to the body, then the next problem was that the entire body flexed in relation to the frame. You will understand, the body moves, the throw-out arm does not. I've gone back to 'floor' pedals, wherever possible.
Wish I had a good answer for you, but I don't. You didn't say what type of brakes you might want, but if you have, or want discs, it leads to a 'sort-of' problem. I have tried using a master-cylinder from a 66-70 CJ with 11-inch brakes, and also with discs. Works fine for 11-inch, only fair for discs. I once tried to make brackets to put a dual cylinder in... results were ok, but there is not much room. And, one time, I 'remoted' the master-cylinder, and just moved it back to where there is more room. This worked fine, and I was able to install whatever M/C I wanted. As for reservoirs, I sealed-up the cover, and remoted the reservoir, using the plastic reservoir from a foreign car, or from street-rod sources. If I were going to do this again, today, I would check-out street-rod sources, because it is quite common to use floor pedals and disc brakes in early hot-rod chassis, like 30's-type Fords. Wish I could offer you a better answer. Maybe someone else will post a more 'elegant' answer.
In the past week I have installed a dual master out of a 77 wagoneer(WITH OUT POWER BRAKES), they are pretty low profile and have a good piston size, on the frame in my 1948 jeep cj2a. the problem is that I have a custom frame and a Chevy 305. I fabricated a mount out of 3/16 steel plate and welded it to my frame,
it works good so far. I was able to keep the stock brake pedal assembly, except for the pedel bushing brace, I also fabricated a support for the bushing, the whole project took about 4 hours and is well worth it, I had to put a new cylinder in due to the fact i am running dana 44's with disks. If you are running the stock engine you could mount it the mc farther up in the engine compartment, just keep the same geometry on the push rod and lengthen it with 7/16" stock from any hardware store. I had to lengthen it about 1" but it work great the whole project cost me 40$ including new lines, good luck to you.
I converted to hanging pedals in my CJ-2. Built then myself. Used 1/4" plate to reinforce the firewall. It works great with no flex. Also went with a hydralic clutch. Check it out at http://www.home.off-road.com/~cj2a
Also check out C.H. Topping for floor pedal conversions. http://www.chtopping.com
hopes this helps,
Don't know why so much problem with converting to swinging pedals. Make sure you support the firewall
as stated in early post. I've used later Jeep swinging pedals in several early CJ's with no problem. Had to
do some minor fab work. I convert from through the floor because when you get really crossed up on a hard trail
the frame has enough twist to bind the pedal against the floorboards and won't come out or move in. If you are
set on keeping the through the floor pedals use a 1970 or 71 CJ-5 setup. It is a dual reservoir setup under
the floorboards. If you can't find one I'll sell you the one I have for $20 plus shipping.It has a m/c but I can't
guarantee what shape it's in. Would make a good core. Good luck.Nickmil.
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