[2615]

Now that it's cooled down to t-shirt weather, I thought it'd be a good time to swap out that wore out clutch. The replacement kit I got from Napa, already had a new flywheel.
Is it a good idea to change out the old flywheel bolts like you would on a flexplate?
Another question is is it easier to pull the engine for the swap or just pull the tranny? When I had my Scout II it was easier for me to pull the engine 'cause the T19 was hard for one guy to handle alone. It would be a good time to replace the rear main seals anyway.
I figure to pull the radiator and grill off and hoist the engine with a wheeled A-frame hoist I'll be using.
Everything has been pressure washed. Anything I should be looking out for?

 

[2887]

Shouldn't have a new flywheel in your clutch kit... Should be a pressure plate, a clutch disk, a throwout bearing, maybe an alignment tool, and maybe a pilot bushing.

As for pulling the motor or the tranny, it all depends on what you got I guess. The t-150/d20 combo is really lite and can be muscled in their without tools, the t-18/d20 combo on the other requires a tranny jack (or as some have shown before, you just flip over the entire vehicle to change the clutch, this way gravity really helps you out on the reinstall bit)

I would think pulling the motor to do a clutch is much more work. The jeeps are simple to yard out the tranny/t case to do a clutch. It is doable with one person, but two definetly makes it easier. A smooth concrete floor is even nicer but I am not so lucky...

As for rear main, no need to pull the motor their either, it is just as simple from underneath.

 

[RickB]

When I replaced my clutch last fall, I removed the tranny/transfercase. I found this much easier than pulling the engine.

 

[517]

The clutch kit came with a new flywheel? Could you mean pressure plate?

The old flywheel should be resurfaced.

Make sure you put the clutch disk on the right way. Look at the old one, and also note that the wrong way, it won't seat against the flywheel as the hub in the centre will hold it away. You'll figure it out.

If you opt for removing the tranny / xfer case you have to deal with the skid plate bolts. Potential for mayhem there as they snap off or spin in the frame.

Pulling the motor would be straightforward and doesn't take that long. Possibly some problems with the exhaust bolts but that should be it. Easier to fix than skid plate bolts. Maybe put the engine on a stand and change the rear main seal while you are at it if there is any problem there.

All in all, I think either way is sensible.

 

[WILL]

In reply to:

The replacement kit I got from Napa, already had a new flywheel.

[/ QUOTE ]

This is how it sounds to me.

The replacement kit I got from NAPA. I already had a new flywheel.

 

[sourpwr]

I pulled my T-5 Dana300 to replace the clutch from under the Jeep. Unfortunately, it took me 4 months to put it back in. I ended up pulling the motor in the mean time and put it all back in at once. I have the 258. The motor, tranny, and transfer case were real long and it took some work to get it all back in as one piece. Either way would have been easier if I had someone there to help. As for the bolts, I replaced all of my flywheel and pressure plate bolts. -- Mike

 

[2615]

The flywheel came with the CJ when I bought it.
It's just that some vehicles are easier to change the clutch by pulling the engine when you work alone. Sometimes it's safer too.
Around here a lot of the farmers pull engines to replace cluthes that's why I asked. I've never done a Jeep before bit I've done quiet a few other vehicles in the past.

 

[jdoggmoney]

OK here's my .02. This has worked for me and general420 to do bell housing swaps and clutch replacements.

Remove or disconnect shifters and linkages, drive shafts, speedo cable, clutch linkage, etc from under vehicle.

Remove tranny to bellhousing bolts.

Support skid plate and tranny/t-case assembly with good quality floor jack. We hand a fabricated tranny plate to disperse the weight on the jack... large piece of wood should work too.

Lower the assembly enough to take tension off of the input shaft and carefully slide the entire assembly, skid plate and all, backwards until you have enough room to access the bellhousing/clutch assembly.

You may have to place a small bottle jack under the oil pan (use wood in between) to keep the angles close.

This method has worked well on CJ5s and 7s with V8s and 258s. 2-3 hours when things go smoothly. Yes the skid plate bolts can be a pain, start soaking them with PB Blaster now. Good Luck!

 

[general420]

What he said, and that was with an sm465 / D300 combo which is just as heavy as your T-18 / D20 I'm guessing. If you have friends like jdogg, a few beers will get you all the help you need!