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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys & gals. I'm tired of getting in the 71 (225 v6) every morning and pulling the choke to start it then pushing it back in a little as it warms up. I have a few spare carbs from GM vehicles laying around and got to tinkering. I have the innards from the automatic choke that will fit in the standard choke housing. The housing has the little treaded portion on the bottom for the heat riser tube. I need to know where it would attach to the intake. I see a port near the rear of the intake next to the line that runs to the vacuum? for the auto tranny. The port has a 3" piece of hose on it that I have blocked with a small bolt stuck in it. Is this where it would go to? Its not treaded like I usually see on the newer automatics. Also what do I use for it? copper tubing? How do I hook it to the intake since its not treaded? Thanx!

Bill

Sprungover`71 Jeepster w/lotsa goodies
http://www.paragonap.com
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Why not make life simple? Get an electric choke. Measure the opening with a caliper, then run down to the parts house and get one. There are about 3 sizes, all close, that's why measure it. About $20.
Then simply wire it to the ignition switch - handy place is the ignition resistor on the firewall, just make sure it's hooked on the key side, not the coil side.

To answer your question, the tube going down from the choke housing is for warm air to go in, not vacuum. (The fitting you mentioned is vacuum, wrong one.)
The tube (you'll have to make one, copper or steel) goes to the choke stove. I don't remember without looking at mine whether the stove is on the exhaust manifold (I think so) or on the intake manifold. It's a square box that has a little hole in it. The tube just pushes in it. It's called a choke stove because it's simply a place to make warm air. ----- The choke housing has a slight vacuum in it, a small hole between the housing and the carb body pulls a very slight vacuum inside the closed housing. That slight vacuum sucks warm air up the tube to warm the coiled spring. The little piston inside is part of the choke pull off.

I prefer the manual choke - reason being that sometimes you want a fast idle, all you need to do is pull out the choke a bit, let your foot off the gas pedal, then push the choke knob back in - the carb stays on the fast idle cam without the choke closed.
I even modified mine so the first half of pulling the knob out raises the idle by rotating the fast idle cam, then the second half closes the blade. Off roading it sometimes helps if you can get the idle up.




98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 

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The passenger's side exhaust manifold has two places to attach warming tubes, one at the very rear, which is easy to see, and one right under the middle exhaust port, which is not easily seen. The one under the middle exhaust port is the one which attaches to the choke.

There is nothing more than friction and the construction of the pipe itself that holds the tubing in place. The tube runs slightly forward, turn out to the passenger wheel, up across the manifold, turns in to the carb and finally up to the fitting. Be sure to get the right female fitting, I believe the stuff used for natural gas is threaded properly, but double check me on that.

Cheers


67 Jeepster Convertable (to restore)
68 Jeepster Convertable (for fun)
225 / Turbo 400 - both
 

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Missed one item - the original tubing has a shoulder formed into it that keeps the tube from going to far into the manifold. I could not find anyone who could form the shoulder for me so I just got a compression fitting (tubing to pipe) and installed it on the tube to provide a shoulder, also drilled across the pipe fitting and threaded a wire through so I could run a wire around the manifold. So the shoulder keeps the tube out and the wire keeps the tube in.

Cheers

67 Jeepster Convertable (to restore)
68 Jeepster Convertable (for fun)
225 / Turbo 400 - both
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll check it out tonight again. I never noticed the spot on the exhaust manifold, but I don't have a shield over it anyway, unless its right on the exhaust itself. As for the electric one, I have a few carbs that are electric for the 231 I was planning on putting in when the 225 lets loose. I don't have the ballast since I switched to HEI so I'll have to find another ignition-on wire that I could use. I know what you mean with the high idle part. I use the manual choke like you described to run my York faster for air tools. I can still use the manual choke going to the throttle linkage with a small chain for the fast idle for the York if I need to. Thanx.

Bill

Sprungover`71 Jeepster w/lotsa goodies
http://www.paragonap.com
http://www.geocities.com/billm18641/
 

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I recently put a universal auto choke on my 2 barrel and it works great. Wire to the Alt, one to the key side, and a heat sensor attached to the intake. It cost about $50.00 at Napa, which seems a little high, but I'm not looking back. I can dig up the part number if you'd like.

CJ
1967 225, TH400 Jeepster
 

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There's no shield, the tube slides right into the manifold.

67 Jeepster Convertable (to restore)
68 Jeepster Convertable (for fun)
225 / Turbo 400 - both
 

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Chris, Here are the numbers. Napa Echlin 2-1666 Automatic Choke Control. Also a couple of other number that might help; R376990 and the sku is 07390 76095. Simple install and I think that you will be pleased.

CJ
1967 225, TH400 Jeepster
 
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