[Guest]

We recently bought a Samurai, 1988 with 90K miles. I have a manual and have read the part about diagnostic codes. I have a 1300 engine with a stock carb, have replaced the O2 sensor, fuel pump, waterpump and did a tune-up. We also had a Flowmaster muffler, new cat converter and 2" pipes put on. Runs better, but the check-engine light is lit and when I perform the fuse in the diagnostic receptical, I can't get the lights to flash. Any suggestions?

 

[1339]

What is your mileage on the odometer? Every 50 or 60K the odometer trips the light as a reminder to
change the timing belt and such. the reset switch, a toggle, is under the lower steering collum cover.

 

[Guest]

I will check, but I think it has around 100K. Changing the O2 sensor seems to solve the engine roughness, but I'll look for the toggle switch. I assume you toggle it on and then back off?
When I did the water pump you have to take off the timing belt so I replaced it on principle even though it looked good. I did notice the sprocket was off a tooth because at TDC the crank wants to turn CC about 10 deg I think.
Thanks

PS. Is there a reason I can't access codes? Or if there are none, does it not read "12" anyway?

 

[Sarge]

That switch is on the right side of the steering column with three wires running to it , red white & blue . A small slide type switch , if it's got 100k on it that is one of the mileage trips . About 6" below the ignition switch itself ....
Sarge

 

[2168]

After thr O2 sensor is replaced the FSM calls for this step: Run engine at 1,500 - 2,000 r/min for 30
sec. after warming up engine. Check to be
sure that “CHECK ENGINE” light flashes,
and turn off “CHECK ENGINE” light cancel/
check switch on steering column holder
bracket.
Also be aware that the crank keyway under that timing gear will wallow out allowing the gear to rotate slightly on the crankshaft. Mine was out almost 70 degrees! Check your timing using the flywheel marks to be sure it's correct.

 

[Guest]

Thanks,
I put a timing light and readjusted the timing to the pully and front timing marks. My pulley doesn't rotate and the keyway is fixed. When I put on the new belt I used the keyway on the crankshaft to line up TDC with the camshaft.

Now, how do I determine if the engine is still running too rich? Do I have to pay $50 to put it on a machine?

PS. Where do we get the $11 tube kit for fixing the carb hesitation problem? Can I get it locally (Fort Worth, TX)?

My son also wants to get a new rear bumper, but I don't and can't weld it on nor pay $300 for a new one. Any ideas?

 

[freebird01]

you can use the o2 senser and a digital multimeter to see how rich your running.

It should be between 200-900 mV.....400mV is pretty much perfect. ...lower then 200 its too lean....over 900 is rich

as for the bumper.....if you got no fab skills then the onlything to do is either find a replacement in a bone yard or dont be cheap and cough up the dough

got to pay to play....

 

[2168]

All the vendors have the vent tube part, got mine from Petroworks. Check out this page for more info on the carb fix:

Carb TSB

They have stock bumpers for $75.00. I'm gonna need one for a tin top I'm about to pick up!