The only reason I can think of not going through them is that if it doesn't work the process of returning it will be more difficult. Have you thought of purchasing one through a local dealer? I think pep boys, schucks, and car-something carries 2barrel rochesters rebuilt. It's just a matter of finding the cheapest one, probably. Best of luck.

Dionys

 

I think I would rather deal with Schucks or NAPA in case there's a problem afterward, I can walk up to the counter and resolve it rather than mail back and forth. But that's just me. In a perfect world, buying a used, rebuilt part mail-order wouldn't be a problem. I do buy lots of things new on the net though.

Tim
'66 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 252/4.1L V-6
'70 Wagoneer w/Buick 350 V-8
'76 Wagoneer w/AMC 401 V-8 (sold)

 

Thanks for the input, guys. The only reason I would go thru carparts.com is the price is ovre $100 cheaper! The carb is the same, reman by Tomco, #2-416, but Schucks charges $275, and carparts charges $154.

Chris Jurden
Northwest Chapter, AJC
Sultan, WA
'68 & '69 Jeepsters

 

If it's that much cheaper I would go with the one from carparts.com. There is something to be said for convenience but sometime that has to be sacrificed in order to dull the pain in your wallet.

1970 Jeepster half cab
225 V6/2.5" Suspension Lift/ Modified Roll Bar

 

I actually just lucked out and covinced my local ma and pa auto parts store to sell me the exact same one for $175! (Tomco rebuilt 2-416) It will be here this afternoon. Kinda the best of all worlds...

Chris Jurden
Northwest Chapter, AJC
Sultan, WA
'68 & '69 Jeepsters

 

FYI, I haven't had much luck with CARPARTS.COM. I tried to order a clutch and pressure plate from them and after one month of delays I cancelled and ordered it from 4Wheel wholesalers and had it in two days. I even asked carparts if they would waiver the shipping fee since they were taking so long and they said no. That's when I cancelled the order. I ordered the carb for mine from JC Whitney and did not have any problems with the folks they use to rebuild. I even sent it the first one back to the rebuilder and they sent me another one within a few days.



Mike, '70 Pick-up in Hawaii

 

The Jeepster 2 bbl is probably one of the simplest carbs ever built. If you can take it off yourself, you can rebuild it.
Just don't bend anything when you disassemble it. Spray out the passages with a can of carb cleaner, put in a new gasket kit - $15? or less.
Or, if you still don't want to, you'd be best off dealing with a local rebuilder, phone book, It's best if he rebuilds yours, as who knows what jetting you'll get from a parts house.
That carb was used on lots of different vehicles, mostly GM, but a few Chryslers too. The Jets you get may be way too lean, or way too rich. Rebulders only worry about whether it fits or not, not the jetting, they just rebuild what they get, then sell it as a "one size fits all."

Or, if you junk yard it, try for a 65 Chevy 283's, it's about the right mixture.

98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"

 

Rich,

I've rebuilt my 2 barrel, and like you said, pretty damn easy. I've been tossing up getting a professionally rebuilt one though as I've heard you can only rebuild them so many times before they are "worn out". I understand the principals behind the carb, but don't have the experience to tell whether or not this makes sense. Would I be just wasting my money getting a professionally rebuilt one?

Paul

 

The only thing you can "wear out" rebuilding it is possibly the threads where the screws go. I suppose after they've been torqued a few hundred times they might eventually strip out. But then that's easy to repair too. That's an awful lot of rebuilds!

The only thing that actually wears is around the throttle shafts, the bushings get loose and leak a little air in (from usage, not rebuilding.) When they get too worn carb shops drill the holes out, press in a new bushing, then ream it. If yours are worn out they can fix it in minutes. That's usually in very severe cases though.
Grab the shaft and wiggle it sideways, if it really feels loose --- .

Try to get the Borg Warner kit rather than the Jiffy kit. The BW costs a little more, but it has better parts. It comes with a new accelerator pump. When you are reassembling the carb, put a drop or 2 of oil on the accel pump to keep it from scoring till it gets wet with gas.

If you have a plastic float DO NOT put it in carb cleaner. Rinse it in gasoline, wear gloves when you touch it. The oil on your skin will dissolve the very thin protective coating on it, letting it absorb gas, riding lower than it should. Keep it free of oil!

I like using a carb spray from a can, like Gumout. STP carb cleaner doesn't do much. Use the "stick" with it to blow out all passages.
After washing it with carb cleaner, I like to rinse it off with Brake cleaner. Brake cleaner leaves no residue.

DO NOT SPRAY BRAKE CLEANER IN THE ENGINE - IT MAKES A VERY POISONOUS GAS WHEN IT BURNS. YOU DON'T SMELL IT, YOU JUST DIE!



98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"

 

After I got over the uncertainty about taking mine apart after having it rebuilt three times, I laid it out piece by piece and it was not hard at all. The only thing I would add ro RRich's post is to be sure to replace the little balls in the accelerator pump with the correct ones from the kit. Mine would get actually stuck in the holes. I think it was due to debris in my fuel tank. All that is taken care of now.
You should also use the search category, someone posted about a carb and number for a good price.
RQ

PROUD! member of the EASTERN CHAPTER!