hello all, we have rebuild our 2 barrel rodchester and added the spacer, with putting in a new kit, using measurements to set the float, when the jeepster is started gas pumps from the vent hole (slanted) at the top of the carb. Any help with this or ideas please pass along, we are missing a bunch of snow time. thanks
Carb Help!!!!
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Sounds like your needle ain't seatin' in the seat for some reason. May have a speck of dirt or a small fleck of metal in there that's keeping it from sealing. You could try tapping on the top of the carb where the filter goes in. May dislodge it. You could also try pinching off the fuel line where it goes into the pump, run it till it runs out of fuel then un-pinch the line. Might also help flush out whatever is in there. Did you put a new float in it when you rebuilt it? Could be if it's the old float it may be saturated with gas. Just a couple of thoughts to get you started.
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Try RRich's "Mexican tune up"(while motor is running, cup your hands over the carb and let it suck down until it shuts down). I've done it a few times to a mower this year and it's kept me from having to take anything apart until I get a bit of free time. (like I should be having now)
definately a seat or float problem. Sometimes Floats don't.
If it's brass, check it for worn corners and shake to see if gas is inside. If made of foam/plastic, drop it in a cup of gas, it should float about 1/3 out of the fuel.
Check the needle and seat, blow in it and close by finger.
If it's brass, check it for worn corners and shake to see if gas is inside. If made of foam/plastic, drop it in a cup of gas, it should float about 1/3 out of the fuel.
Check the needle and seat, blow in it and close by finger.
"Sometimes Floats don't."!!!!!!!!"
I like that, so true.
The float doesn't have much side to side clearance in the bowl, it could be dragging on the side.
If the float is able to drop down far enogh, the taper on the bottom can jam it in the down position - that should be checked - don't depend on the float drop specs - often wrong. Just measure the bottom of the bowl to the gasket, then hold the top with the foat dropping to make sure it can't touch bottom.
Or, like was said, a piece of trash in the seat.
Or, the little spring on the float - the one that pulls the needle down - it does NOT go through the hole like it looks like it should. That can hold the float needle/seat open.
In any case, ya gotto go in and look. It's not supposed to be so full it bubbles out the top.
Plastic floats - make sure you don't touch them with your fingers - the tiny amount of acid dissolves the thin surface film on them, causing them to absorb gas. They should put a warning on them - just like halogen bulbs!
I like that, so true.
The float doesn't have much side to side clearance in the bowl, it could be dragging on the side.
If the float is able to drop down far enogh, the taper on the bottom can jam it in the down position - that should be checked - don't depend on the float drop specs - often wrong. Just measure the bottom of the bowl to the gasket, then hold the top with the foat dropping to make sure it can't touch bottom.
Or, like was said, a piece of trash in the seat.
Or, the little spring on the float - the one that pulls the needle down - it does NOT go through the hole like it looks like it should. That can hold the float needle/seat open.
In any case, ya gotto go in and look. It's not supposed to be so full it bubbles out the top.
Plastic floats - make sure you don't touch them with your fingers - the tiny amount of acid dissolves the thin surface film on them, causing them to absorb gas. They should put a warning on them - just like halogen bulbs!
OH NO! I was afraid you'd ask that.
Not having one in front of me, but I remember there's a hole in the float near the hinge that "looks right." It isn't. Hold the top upside down and you'll see the spring wire binds, holding the needle open a tad.
As I remember, the spring wire slides in from the back - by the hinge pin.
You'll have to look.
The only purpose of the spring wire is to pull the needle open when the float drops in case it sticks closed. That's rarely a problem, as the fuel pressure pushes the needle down anyway. You really don't need the spring wire. Some don't even have it.
If you are careful you can do it while the carb's mounted. Just be very careful to not drop anything down. If you do it "in situ," move the throttle return spring so it holds the butterfy closed hard. That way, if something does go down, it doesn't go all the way down.
Not having one in front of me, but I remember there's a hole in the float near the hinge that "looks right." It isn't. Hold the top upside down and you'll see the spring wire binds, holding the needle open a tad.
As I remember, the spring wire slides in from the back - by the hinge pin.
You'll have to look.
The only purpose of the spring wire is to pull the needle open when the float drops in case it sticks closed. That's rarely a problem, as the fuel pressure pushes the needle down anyway. You really don't need the spring wire. Some don't even have it.
If you are careful you can do it while the carb's mounted. Just be very careful to not drop anything down. If you do it "in situ," move the throttle return spring so it holds the butterfy closed hard. That way, if something does go down, it doesn't go all the way down.
When cold, does the accelerator pump give a good squirt? It should.
Too low a float level will cause the pump not to get fuel in.
Trick on the 2G:
For off road use the 2G needs the float set about 3/16 lower than specs, but then the accel pump starves out.
Carb off the vehicle, top off - notice the pump gets it's fuel from the bowl - it spills over the web between them. But lowering the float stops the spill.
Notice the wear marks on the pump's cylinder - where it's upper limit is. Do not go below that point!
Simply grind out some of that web from the top so you lowered the spill point. Be careful not to cut into where the pump piston rides. Remove all burrs and clean.
A small Dremel works, or you can simply drill a hole at an angle through the web.
Old leather pump piston's sometimes can be brought back to life - soak then overnight in oil. 30 wt, salad oil - not WD-40 (keresene.)
Too low a float level will cause the pump not to get fuel in.
Trick on the 2G:
For off road use the 2G needs the float set about 3/16 lower than specs, but then the accel pump starves out.
Carb off the vehicle, top off - notice the pump gets it's fuel from the bowl - it spills over the web between them. But lowering the float stops the spill.
Notice the wear marks on the pump's cylinder - where it's upper limit is. Do not go below that point!
Simply grind out some of that web from the top so you lowered the spill point. Be careful not to cut into where the pump piston rides. Remove all burrs and clean.
A small Dremel works, or you can simply drill a hole at an angle through the web.
Old leather pump piston's sometimes can be brought back to life - soak then overnight in oil. 30 wt, salad oil - not WD-40 (keresene.)
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