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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting to get my project together. I am planning on using buggie leafs in the rear of my sammi and I am going to be using fj-60 axles for the project. My question is what spring would you guys recomend. I have been talking to some guys and they are leaning me more towards YJ springs. But I just have to ask and see what some guys might be running on the board! I would also like to take my wheel base to around 103-105. Let me hear what you have to say. Thanks alot TOM
 

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By buggy-leaf I'm ASSuming you're talking about a half-leaf mounted to the frame rail & joined to your leaf pack via a shackle? Correct?

If this is the case, might as well use a spring with the same width as the ones you are currently running. i.e. if you're running YJs already--use a YJ spring, running CJs, use a CJ spring. The spring doesn't come into play until you get into a droop anyway. You can use a standard shackle this way, otherwise you'll have to use one from a Cherokee that goes from 2" to 2 1/2".

Curious as to how you're gonna get that much wheel-base. Mind adding a little info?

Brad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes that is what I am talking about with buggy leaf. I am running the cj springs as of now but was wondering if there would be a better spring to run? How do I plan on getting that wheel base not sure yet still working on it with my bud. Lots of relocating as of now though. I just put this up in the air to get some ideas.
 

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on the wheeolbase issues. the more you can get, the better!
i am currently 93" WB, and am bumping my rear axle even farther back to make it about 97-98".
another option would be to run cherokee springs, as they have a 4" offset pin, as that would help you gain some length without having the frame stupid far back.
 

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I'm running Goofy's on the rear of mine, and I'm just using stock samurai rear springs on all 4 corners. I'm also using old samurai springs for my goofey's.
I made a plate that the end of the spring can slide into, bolt's up using the center pin hole, and rest's against a plate welded to my frame (I also have flanges on either side so I can pin the goofy's shut for road driving).. But if were to do it again, I'd probably inboard the goofy's so they rest against the frame. Give's better flex this way.
I'm kicking around the idea of using YJ's with the goofy's in the rear. But, I'll probably just use a tapered shakle to attach the YJ's to the samurai goofy's. They seems to be working good so far. I still have some tweeking to do on them.
 

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nudderin. take into account, if you do long flexy soft goofys on the rear, you **should** do something in the front to accomodate it too. on FuBaR, the front was WAY TOO STIFF in my opinion as seen in this last picture. note, the drivers front isnt stuffin a bit, but obviously, the rear goofy on drivers side is opened up nicely n the pass rear is STUFFFFFFFFFFFEEEDDDDD.......
BiLLy bOb
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
noticed that it is spring under. IS that how it is supposed to be or dont it really matter??? Looks good that is what I want. Tons of flex and more wheel base. But dont we all want that.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Hey Billy Bob,

I really dig that your 'rear' sheet metal! Totally cool!

Ever have any problems with the police about it?

I'm guessing that the 'hood' opens up for your rear cargo space? Great way to make a lid to cover the rear cargo area!


-Paul
 

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Food for thought.

Buggy leaf suspensions can increase the lateral movement of the axle. If you find it becomes excessive, a pan hard bar might help you out.

Are you comfortable in building links for a coil set-up?
 

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boyirish, im a chemically imbalanced guy (read, FAT:d)!!! so i left mine spring under so i wouldnt have to climb in n out of it. last one i had was spoa on 33s n i hurt my foot on many different occasions getting out of it. dont help that ive had foot problems for 20+ years either, so i finally decided i was gonna have one that had 33s n be easy to get in n out of. sittin on level ground, it was only about 4-6 inches taller than a stock sammy.

colozuk, yup, the rear was a fully enclosed trunk. even had the gas filler inside like on the old bugs. not visible outside at all. it was COOOL. never had any serious problems outta da cops. if id had my rear headlites hooked up id had tons, but i NEVER run any wires to em. virginia did however frown on 33/14.oo boggers on 2in bs wheels hanging out of the body. oh well. never got a ticket.
BiLLy bOb
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey Tim,
Not very comfortable at doing coils just yet. I have a few things to learn before that. Pluse I dont ahve the money for all the links and still do all the mods I want to do. Coils will be in the future but just as of now. I want to make sure I am ready for GONZOOKIN.
 

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chemically imbalanced is right....but i think it has more to do with the dye from last years zookimelt then hozontally challanged


i mean....think about it...anyone that has a zuk thats confused about which way its going has got to be chemically imbalanced!!!!

 

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boyirish6,
I thought about buggies 4-5 years ago and a few things you might want to think about before you get in to this are
If your going to go SPOA and run buggies on the rear you might want to think about a 2 link or panhard bar to keep the axle centered. I wheeled with a guy in a YJ with buggies on the rear and in some off camber situations the buggies would twist and the axle would shift sideways binding the u-joints. His spring wrap was pretty bad too, I figured a simple 2 link would keep the axle centered and eliminate the spring wrap. One other thing I didn't like was when he went down a steep hill or dropped in to a hole with the front end the buggies sometimes "unloaded" on him pitching the rear up and almost staining his seats. I decided against buggies and went with YJs and missing links.
Another thing about the wheel base. I've moved my rear axle back 3-4" and only have another 3" of clearence between the axle and stock gas tank and being that you want to run FJ-60 axles which are much larger you'll be looking to relocate the gas tank if you want to strech out the back. On the front anything over 5-6" forward will cause some steering clearence issues with a steering box in the stock location. I had barely enough clearence with my crossover system and my axle moved forward 3". All the mods I did where with stock axles and a stock frame and I'm in the process of swapping in Toy axles now, tomorrow I'll be installing the front axle and plan to go forward another 2" if I can and install a 'Kick power steering box a little farther forwad on the frame for clearence. On the rear axle I have M.O.R.E. spring perches which are drilled for three axle postions, I'll install it as far back as I can and still retain the stock gas tank and post some measurements so you know what its going to take to get 103-105" wheelbase. Good luck on what you decide but I think with the amount of work your looking at you'd be happier with coilovers or just plain YJ or XJ springs without the buggies....my .02
 
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