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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my driver side rear break cylinder over the weekend. It had been leaking so I figured on fixing it in an hour or so. Wrong. Of coarse with all Jeep fixes this is slowly getting out of control. While unscrewing the break line from the old cylinder I twisted the line in half. It was old and the head wouldn't turn. So off to the store to get a new break line (actually my wife went, and came back with that and a pizza, god bless her). I pulled the old break line out but it won't turn on the other end where it connects to a little "T" box with a line going to the passenger side and a hose going up to some bar. What is this stuff and any suggestions on getting this off?
Thanks, Jeff

'83 CJ7 258 i6 31x10.5 3in. lift? /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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The T-box is the junction for the rear brake lines. You should be able to unbolt your right side line from the t-box. Use the correct wrench or you will strip that end also. To get a better grip you could also unbolt the t-box and hold it with pliers while you wench out the broken side. When your all done bleed both rear wheels.

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I unbolted the T-box and held it in my hand as I tried to move it. Not to smart, besides hurting, I had no leverage. I guess I was a little punchy last night because I didn't even think about using pliers or a lock clamp until this morning. I seem to remember hearing about something I could soak it in that would break the rust. Any idea?
Thanks for the input, I try that tonight, Jeff

'83 CJ7 258 i6 31x10.5 3in. lift? /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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well alittle somethin somethin i use is kerosene and atf mixture.. it knocks the crap outta everything.. if you dont want to mix.. use atf straight.. works good also..

survival is instinct, but living takes guts
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you using a line wrench? A good line wrench not some made in "Taiwalaysiastan" piece of s#!t? It helps, A LOT! When you put it back together use teflon tape on the threads, it acts like an anti-sieze and will help the next time you have to take them apart. Don't get any teflon tape on the flares. All the tape in the world won't seal a bad flare, but it will make a good one leak. Just put a wrap on the treads. A little white lithium grease on the line where the fittings touch the line helps a whole lot as well. These are preventative measures for the next time. This time use a good line wrench and some penetrating oil.

My other car is a BULLDOZER
 

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Jeff,
If the brake system is old, it may be a good idea to think about replacing all the parts. Afterall, the Jeep is 17 years old now. Like Brownbagg said, more things are liable to go south on you. When my Cherokee reached 13, my wheel cylinders started to weep a little. I figured I had gotten my money's worth out of the brake system and for safety's sake it was time to bite the bullet and change everything out and give the system a good flushing out, bleed and refill.
The only thing I didn't replace then was the vacuum booster. That went this year and I just got finished replacing that. Good luck!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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Hold a heavy hammer under the tee fitting and LIGHTLY tap on the top with a small hammer near the
end. You should them be able to unscrew the brake line.


 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'd recommend borrowing, buying, or, hell--stealing a set of Snap-On Flare Nut wrenches. These tools are the best I've ever seen, as far as quality, feel, and precision. And they're guaranteed forever. They are like an open-end wrench, except that they have little extra..."tips" i guess on them to grab the nut better. the opening allows you to slip it over the tube or pipe, but still getr a good grip on the fastener. If you dont want to spend the extreme amount of money, you can go for a craftsman set, but then again, you DO get what you pay for...not to say that sears tools are bad, they're just not as nice as Snap-On. but thats my 2 cents....

-Mike

1998 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 Laramie SLT Sport Plus--5.9L 360, auto, 3.92s, antispin, BFG A/Ts.
 

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The best way I have found to get those stubborn lines off is to simply break the line off at the flare nut(line is no good anyways) and then use a 6 sided socket on it. If it is real rusty might be able to put a little smaller metric one on it. This has worked on 99% of any problems that I've had and man I've had my battles with those things.

YJ with a 6.5L Turbo Diesel
and A.J.'s fiberglass body
 
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