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I just bought a red 88 YJ on E-bay last night. This Jeep will be for my son to drive so I can get FrankenJeep (CJ/YJ-7) back when we trail ride. I am tired of being a passenger.

Any way, this has the 2.5L motor with an AX5 tranny. I would like to have 31" tires on it as a minimum and may go up to 33" depending on the mods needed. My main questions are:
1. How much and what type of lift is needed for those tires? Recommended makers?
2. Would I need a SYE?
3. What are the issues with track bars and recommended fixes? (FrankenJeep doesn't have any.)
4. Are there any performance/gas mileage mods that I could do to this 2.5L?

I plan on installing the roll bar from a 92+ with a front hoop, adding Sun Performance rocker guards, adding a rear bumper with tire carrier (Runk?), front tow hooks (2 or 3 bolt?)and most likely a new front bumper in place of the tube type it has now. This should make it trail worthy for moderate rated trails. A winch will come later.

I will have to pick it up in Green Bay WI and I would like to flat tow it back to Dayton OH. How should the T-case and tranny be set for towing? Should I just pull the drive shafts?

It has a tube front bumper. Can I mount the brackets for my Hidden Hitch tow bar on that type of bumper? Does anyone have "V" blocks that I can use to mount these brackets between the tubes so I don't crush the tubes?

Thanks in advance



Karl
80 CJ/YJ-7 FrankenJeep
94 Grand Cherokee
 
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Swede,
It all goes doen to dollars and use.
1. With a small body lift you could clear the 31's for street use and light wheeling. then you could step up to a 4 inch suspension lift and still use the small body lift to clear the 33's. For companies, I am running a 4inch Procomp springs and a 1 inch Performace accesories body lift. It flexes good. Was a little rough to start with though. But all good now
2. the SYE, depends. Some people will swear you have to have one. I think it depends on your use. If it is mainly for street(ie getting to school), save up for it and get it when you can. The t-case drop will work just fine till you can swing the cash. Remember thought that youll aslo need to buget for the CV shafts that are pricy as heck.
3. If the YJ will be driven on the street i would say pull the rear track bar off for good. I have had mine off since it broke the mount on the axle tube. It hasent adversly affected handling at all. for the front i would recommend getting a set of quick discos. I tried driving with out mine in the front and it was all over the road.
4. As for the 4 banger i really cant help you there other than to say K&N filter. maybe someone else will chime in
5. I would recommend building your own tire carrier and rocker guards. I am knee deep into my progect of that right now. I have found that even by buying a new welder i have spent less than half the price of the carrier and get to keep the welder at the end. Not too shabby;-)
Well thats it from me hope it helps.
later

Travis
90 YJ I6 258 4.0 head conversion 4"lift 33's & lots of other goodies
 

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I'd stick tow hooks and a winch on it first, just to show your a realist /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
31s clear with no mods, although 1-2" is recommended to prevent rubbing off-road.
33s clear with 4" lift minimum, and you'll likely need a SYE and CV shaft to keep from lowering the skid-plate. I've yet to lift my Jeep, but I hear BDS, Rubicon Express (Extreme Duty), and Superlift (Softride) make good kits.
I hear only good things about the weighted flywheel for the 2.5L...
Issues with track-bars include poor articulation- the general fix is to remove them /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Get some sway-bar disconnects after you've gotten your lift so you'll have ones long enough to work.

 

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Well, here's my input.

31s will rub on a YJ most all the time without at least a 1" lift. A 4" suspension will clear 33s, but when it sags a bit, you might rub some.

tow hooks - you can get 2-bolt tow hooks that mount right to the frame in front. in the back you're on your own. Most people get a bumper/tire carrier with tow hook points.

performance - I hear that a 4.0 litre throttle body mounted on the 2.5l 4 cyl. is an improvement mod, but that's just from spending too much time here. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif I haven't done it.

You do not *need* a SYE with the 4" lift, but you would have to drop the TC. If you don't want to do that, you need a SYE.

Good luck,
Pete

88 YJ - trails/beach trips only!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
79 4WD F250-hauler/tower of my toys
70 Jaguar E-type - the best car England ever made. /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
90 Honda CRX - Daily pavement-pounder. 42 MPG. /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
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yeah a 1" body lift is needed to clear 31's with no rubbing.
i have 32x11.50's with a 4.5" susp and a 1" body. rear tires still hit flares on full droop. you may fit tires on rig while on-road but totally diff story with good springs that flex, no rear track bar and 4wheelin. let's put the tow-bar on and tow home and start in./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif you can put transcase in neutral with tranny in any forward gear according to my owners manual but i drop both shafts instead.

steve
87yj,6cly,5spd,NP231,4.5"RE susp,1" body,SYE,CV,32x11.50MTR's,D30,D35posi
 

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Hey, I've got no trac or sway bars, I had to extend my brake lines because I was flexing enough to snap off the old ones. Currently my shocks are limiting travel even (switching to OME shocks will net an extra 2" droop)> I am running stock springs and stock rims, and my 31s fit alright. They do rub minorly quite often while off-road, but that stuff doesn't cause damage. The only damage incurred so far has been to the front fenders: the outside lip is bent a bit up and outward a bit, on the passenger side the side marker light cracked. But that was from 'serious' flexing on a stump that many people had trouble with- no other stock-height rigs could do it.

 
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yeah sycho-
stock rims will help keep tires inside flares. my rims have a backspacing that pulls them out and into the flares. you quite possibly have the most EXTREME "stocker" in the universe!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif.

steve
87yj,6cly,5spd,NP231,4.5"RE susp,1" body,SYE,CV,32x11.50MTR's,D30,D35posi
 
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I have a 90 yj and used a 1 3/4" shackle kit to clear my 31's and have plenty of room for after-market rims(15X8). 31's fit stock but will eat up your flares off road or with passengers in the back.

Shackles were cheaper than a lift $65 for all four.

 
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be careful putting on shackles to clear the 31's. I think that is the reason that my stock springs wore out so fast.
I would reccomend a Spring over if you don't mind a little welding and that will clear 33's easy..
For the engine. The 4.0 throttle body will fit, I have done it to mine. I also have a tb spacer from poweraid. but I reccomend that you do away with the stock airbox, there are several ways to do it.
I took my sway bars and track bars off, it made little difference. It made an awsome diff in flex.
for flat towing, take the rear Driveshaft and keep it in the tcase disconnect it from the diff and wire it up to the body. just disconnect the front. if you put the tcase in nutral you take the chance of burning the berings. they don't lube when its in nutral.

JR
'94YJ,4cyl,33SX's,Locked F/R,NV4500,Soon to come:Wagoneer 44 Scout 44 & spools
 
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I have an 87 And I bought mine with a shckle lift. I dont agree with them totally but if you want to play in the mud they are good for 31 inch tires. I was tired of the stiff ride so I went with a 3.5 superlift and a 1.25 shackle lift I have mexed out both size tires on flex 31 and 33. I could put 35 if I didnt go off road at all .

 
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