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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a used YJ tub that is completely rust free but has slight damage from an accident. It's about 250 miles away from me and I'm going to be borderline on what I want to spend when I factor in gas to go get the thing.

The damage is at the lower front corner or curve of the driver's door opening and along the seem between the cowl and upper bulkhead. The door opening is buckled slighty and the cowel seem was pulled apart slightly due to an impact with the windshield.

Otherwise the tub is PERFECT (minus windshield frame). Please take a look at the pics and let me know how repairable you think the damage is. Thanks.


 

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I'd say repair is barely questionable. The force of the impact bowed the windshield cowl down and broke the spot welds holding the pieces together.

If the door jam/tub lip is not creased (and I don't see one), then I'd think you could simply rejoin the cowl sections (by what ever means you're comfortable with...) and rivet/spot weld them back together. I think that would work fine.

However, if it's on the ragged edge of what you want to spend, it's still a risk. Only you can determine if want to take the risk, or not.
 

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I dont think its worth the gas. Even with a diesel tow rig that is some cash. now if it were a 50 mile round trip it would be worth it.
I can never find what I'm looking for near me either.
 

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Just to compare....

I found a wrecked YJ tub for my CJ rebuild about 100 miles from me that was crumbled on the passenger side.

I gave him a $100 bill and took it home. Nothing but the tub, but a GALVANIZED tub was well worth it!
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I dont think its worth the gas. Even with a diesel tow rig that is some cash. now if it were a 50 mile round trip it would be worth it.
I can never find what I'm looking for near me either.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree with Mike... 500 miles @ 15mpg avg (cross between empty & hauling...) will set you back an even $100 for fuel... the yard ain't gonna let it go for lower than they can crush it for

And Mike... while I ain't exactly looking for a reason to visit "turdville" (as Pat's deemed it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ), there's a couple of decent yards nearby... holler if there's something I can scope for you...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Warning... old thread revival! Well, as I looked over my current CJ body and frame I noticed that my CJ frame is bent slightly on the driver's side where it bends over the rear axle. My in-laws live somewhat close to where this tub was and now the guy said the frame was straight as well. So I loaded up the truck with all my tie downs and drove out there, spending the night at my in-laws.

I dropped in on the yard about thirty minutes after they opened. I wanted to catch them off gaurd hoping this would not give them time to strip the tub bare. It worked. I got to look at the tub and frame as they sat in the corner of the yard. This thing is nice I said to myself. After a few minutes of haggling, and the mention of cold hard cash, we came to an agreement.

Now came the fun part. The guy says... You didn't bring a trailer. I say... That's right, were gonna load it in the back of my ext cab short box GMC and I'm gonn haul it home. He gave me a look, but one of his mechanics backed me up and said he thought it would work.

I should have taken a picture. He loaded it tub first with about for feet of frame and wireing hanging out the back of my truck. While they moved it out of the corner of the lot, I drove to the local Home Depot and bought one more big tie down strap and picked up a couple of those free plastic red flags. When it was all said and done I had nine straps holding the thing in the back of my truck and it rode back there all the way home, stopping for fuel and checking straps.

You guys were right on... averaged right at 15mpg. But I now have a completely rust free tub and straight rust free frame. Theylet me keep theodds and ends that were inside the tub. I have an extra tilt steering column, power brake set up and other tidbits, plus the kicker is that they guy thought the fuel tank had been sold out of the Jeep until we got it loaded. I now have a plastic 22 gal fuel tank instead of the ole 15gal tin can.

So here's a couple of pics. I've started stripping it some. It had Sahara side steps on it. so some rocker gaurds will be in order and I will use the existing bolt holes to attach to the body.

I'm happy and have one heck of a winter project on my hands. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif




 

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Very nice. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

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looks like a nice start of a project, are you just transfering your drive train into it or do you have bigger plans for it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For now I just want a good solid Jeep to wheel in. I've got my drivetrain up to snuff for what I want (minus gears) so the 258, T18 D20 and Scout D44s are indeed going in.

I am checking with a friend this week to borrow the use of a bender and will be buying som 2" DOM. I will put a full cage in and it will have a CJ front end and dash.

It's not going to be a beauty queen, but I am going to have the interior lined (pro stuff), it will get painted all one color, and if I can come up with the coin, I'd like to get all the seats either re-upholstered or replaced.

I am wondering... should I clean the bottom of the tub and "rhino" it too, or just get some quality undercoating in a can... maybe POR15? I am taking the tub off the frame and will probably just hammerite the frame.

Anyone got any tips to get that dang locking gas cap off???
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Anyone got any tips to get that dang locking gas cap off???

[/ QUOTE ]

Big hammer
 

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Stop by your local locksmith's and tell him or her your problem, invite them over for a few beers. I'll bet they have a large ring of keys and could hit the right one on the third or fourth try. Nice looking tub BTW, good score!
 

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I put herculiner on the bottom side of my tub about 6 years ago and it's held up like a champ. My tub was glass so no real reason other than I think unfinished glass looks like h3ll, but the liner itself has stood up extremely well.

If you go 2" tube, buy a longer handle for the bender. If it's the standard 48" handle that 2" is EXTREMELY tough to bend. I had mine built at a pro shop that builds tube frames for street rods / race cars and he said it almost killed him. Although I like the looks of the larger tube I don't know that it's really required and if "I" had to do it, I'm not sure I'd use the 2" again. Most people max out at 1.75" for their junk. I'm not sure what the cost savings of 1.75 over 2.00 would be but it's a thought as well.

I just bought my own bender and didn't bother with 2".
I talked with the seller and he said that 99% of his buyers opt out of 2" dies.
 

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The locking gas cap? Try a big screw driver jammed in the lock. The other option is the locksmith. Can you remove the entire fuel fill hose lose from the tank and body and go to a locksmith?
If you have the coin - line the bottom of the tub. My choice would be POR15 with Tie Coat Primer on it - followed by a bedliner. Rhino would be good. Herculiner would not be my choice for liner on the underside of a body. I have never been able to get Herc smooth. I think if the surface is to rough the mud and dirt will stick to it. Which would be a bad thing if it was hanging over a spot of damaged POR15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The reason for going with 2" is I am going to tie into the fatory bar which is 2 1/4 OD. I think going down to 1 3/4 might look funny. Just a personal preference. If I go that route I have a friend with a power bender that I think I can bribe with beverages.

I will try the screwdriver in the gas cap. If I end up taking the filler assembly down, it won't be a trip to the locksmith. I'll simply get out the angle grinder and cut off wheel and go to town! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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If you can get the filler tube out, you won't need an angle grinder. Simply push the latching ears back with a screwdriver, and then throw the gas cap as far away as you can.
Dave
 
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