Just want to double check this procedure , install new M/C and run short brake lines back into the fluid filled resorvoirs and pump ? Mine seems to have aquired a leak so its a new one today . Thanks !
I've also heard that you can go ahead an hook up you're regular lines, bleed all your brakes as normal and then pump up your brakes and hold while someone loosens the line nuts on the side of the MC. I'd like to know if this is not a good way of doing it. I actually seem to be getting air in my lines somewhere and wonder if it's because of this method.
Well as it turns out , those nice folks at the rebuilding center included a m/c bleeding kit in the box
. Hook two lines from each resovoir and pipe them into the outlet holes and pump slow , about 10 -20 full strokes(while clamped in a vise) , then a few 1/4 length strokes . It says in the instructions how very important it is to do this procedure on this type of m/cylinder . So hopefully this helped you out .
I had to do it both ways.
Tip: when in the vise, point the plunger end a little down.
Bleading the MC is just like bleading slaves ... only you open both lines at the some time when the petal is being depressed.
Repeat until there are no bubbles ... only a clean clear stream.
Be sure that while it's on the bench to tilt it a little forward and back while you pump to get all those little bubbles out. I've also done and seen it writen that when you go to screw in the lines in the vehicle that you should have someone slowly press the pedal while you screw and tighten the lines.
Well now that the new one is installed , wowsers , what a difference in the feel of the pedal . The old one must have been leaking slowly for a bit , I did notice the pedal feeling a bit different but I`m also hauling around my 15 ft. fishing boat right now so I blamed it on that . The bad part is the brake fluid leaked onto the bottom of the inside fender well and blistered all the paint down there (about a 12"x12" section). Not happy with that .
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