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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a Painless kit on the way and will be needing a new battery for the 1980 CJ7....any ideas what the best battery is that will fit on the tiny tray?

Chris

 

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There's always Optima...but then again, you don't really need that kind of power if it's a stock vehicle. Just get a name brand of the right type and size for the application. Every vehicle I own has had a battery from Wally World. Prices are pretty good, and none have failed me yet.

85 CJ-7 258/T176/D300 Scout D44s F&R with Lock-Rites and 4.56 gears. 4" springs with lift shackles 36" SS TSL Radials Hella Rallye 4000s for guiding small planes into the woods
 

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If you are going to stick with a standard case lead acid battery get about a 825 to 850 CCA battery. You can get a higher CCA battery but it will fail faster than the smaller battery.

 

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Get one with a good warrenty. I damaged mine on the trail, and Autozone exchanged it for a new one, no questions asked.


Mark
83 CJ-7 and 76 CJ-7 with stuff
 

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Optima red top. No acid to spill and will outlast all others.

Tim
'66 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 252/4.1L V-6
'70 Wagoneer w/Buick 350 V-8
'76 Wagoneer w/AMC 401 V-8 (sold)
 

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Not long ago either CJDave or TR posted a personal testimonial regarding the Autozone/Walmart variety batteries. I personally have an 850CCA from Wallyworld w/ 1 year left on the "no hassle" (right!) replacement. It's sat for months (literally) only to crank my 304 over for 15-20 minutes w/o fail. Then again, it's so worn out, it probably takes half the effort of a tight motor./wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

Caver Dave
'72 Commando
Oo=====oO
 

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It wasn't me.
Batteries are like any perishable.
If they sit on the shelf too long, they are junk.
I've seen batteries a year old on the shelves at both Wal-Mart and at AutoZone...
I usually buy at the local battery supply warehouse. Cheaper, fresh stock, and I don't care if the case has a scratch mark or the label is torn...

As to the original question...
Your best bet is with a standard lead acid battery, and of the same case size your vehicle calls for.
If you Jeep is very old, the cranking amps will have gone up a bunch for that case size in the past few years, so cranking amps won't be a problem.
Don't look for (but don't discount) 'Sealed' batteries. I prefer the ones with removable caps so I can check, and fill if necessary, the liquid level.

So many cats, so few recipes...
 

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I have a simple rule for any car that I have owned: buy the biggest battery that will fit the hole where it's supposed to go. I have even gone to the extent of putting a piece of plywood into the battery tray(to make a shelf that is higher than the tray's lip) so I could put an even bigger one in there.

Huh?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just went through returning a battery that went bad after a year last week and let me give you a few peices of advice: Buy one with a 2-3 year full replacement warranty! All batteries on the shelves look the same, but some are newer than others. Every battery has a date of manufacture on it, look at it and buy the newest possible one. And MOST importantly, take the receipt, put it in an envelope (or waterproof key holder if your jeep sees the type of trails it should!) and duct tape that sucker to your battery or battery tray. It took me two days to find the receipt and without it they were no help. We did end up getting a free battery though and the price went down $10 so we got free lunch out of it as well...

Jon - 1985 CJ7, 258, 67k, T-176, Dana 300, 1" body lift, 31's, wrangler tub, yellow!
 

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A free lunch for two days work doesn't seem like a deal to me... /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Better than the alternative of having to buy another $60 battery and pay for lunch... :( I was just getting over this whole ordeal thanks a lot!

Jon - 1985 CJ7, 258, 67k, T-176, Dana 300, 1" body lift, 31's, wrangler tub, yellow!
 
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