[624]

I'm trying to remove a t18/d20 combo from a 75 waggin ear, and have gotten everything off but the crossmember and gearboxes. I'm having a hard time accessing the bolts holding the bellhousing adapter(5"long!) to the tranny. On the passenger side, part of the shift linkage is blocking, on the left side theres very little body clearance(I can fix that though ). Is it necessary to remove the t-case linkage to get to the bolts? and if so, how do I do that? Actually, this is starting to get kind of difficult, as this is my first transmission removal/clutch job, and I'm working in conditions that would make even H8 monday want to give up(90 degrees, high humidity, dirt/gravel, no roof, rain... ground is bumpy, some access to airtools-whoohoo!, and trees so close to the waggie that I have a hard time opening the doors-the ones that open that is). I'm starting to see the virtues of having a busted out windshield, as I've lowered a cable through the gaping hole in order to lower the gearboxes. Did I mention I dont have a transmissions jack? Anyhow, I can't center the cable over the tranny and its looking near impossible to slide an input shaft out of the bellhousing that makes pinnochios nose look small(11+ inches?) So my next question is, either how can I slide back the combo and free the shaft, or how do I take things apart one piece at a time so its not so heavy? And by the way, just how much does this thing weigh???? I doubt I'm strong enough to benchpress such a big chunk of iron. Yeah, I know its a full size jeep, but I bet more of you have taken these things out of big jeeps than the guys at the full size board(I'm not knockin them, theres just more of you here ). If I'm not making any sense its from breathing all those fumes from that leaky gas tank....

and yes, I did read the manual.
Thanks!!!
Andy

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[Guest]

If it was me, I will try to remove the t-case first and then the transmission. One, the combo is really heavy(over
200 pounds)and second it will be easier to get those bolts
your taking about. I believe there is one bolt holding the
shifter assy. to the transmission, but other than that the shifter assy. should come off with the t-case. you may want to remove the shifter, it has four bolts holding it in place that should be easy to remove.
junior

 

[624]

Yeah, I'll probly do that... it might help to drain the fluid either way, itd be a little bit lighter .

H8, I'm not ratting on you by the way, I said that out of respect for your ability to build an 'industrial jeep' in a parking lot.

Andy

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75 cherokee parts pile

 

[LEVE]

Maybe I can help ease the pain of this one... So here goes.. lets give it a try. First, a few home made tools... when you're done throw them in your spares kit, tool box etc... they have LOTS of uses.

Buy some 1/4" (6mm) wire cable, about 30 feet of the stuff and cut it into three 10 foot lengths.
Buy 6 cable clamps... you slip the cable into these little clamps and then clamp the cable down.
Make some loops on one the end of the cable and use the cable clamps to maintain the loop.

Buy a 18" (or so) piece of 3/8" threaded rod, and 4 nuts and washers to fit the rod.
Cut the rod in half and dress the threads so you can easily thread the nuts on the cut ends.

Raise the Jeep up on 4 jackstands, or on 2 ramps in the front and 2 jackstands in the rear.
Remove the shifter boot and the shifter tunnel plate.
Remove the shifter lever, if you can....
Remove the speedo cable
Remove the wiring to the 4X4 and Revers switches.

Place a hydraulic Jack underneath the trnansfer case ouput and support the transfer case.

Remove the skid plate.

You should now be able to see all the transmission and transfer case.

Loop on end of the cable around the driver side frame rail, and through the loop. Continue with the cable under the transmission/transfer case at the rear where the Jack is, and around the passenger side frame rail. Loop it around the frame and clamp the cable to itself with a cable clamp. Now remove the jack. The transmision assembly is supported.

I had you make three 10 foot sections for a reason. Use one section and attach it to the a Come-Along. Then using the come-along you can attach the other end of the cable to the transmission and the come-along.... Heck... instant winch for lowering an raising the transmission assembly into place. Once you raise the front, you raise the back by hand and slip the hydraulic jack under the transfer case. That's ALL the lifting you have to do! Easy as pie! Then you can raise and lower the transmission at will and line it up with the studs and shove it foward and onto the bellhousing. It's worked for me!

Remove the front and rear driveshafts.

Remove the clutch fork assembly and cable.

Loop a second length of cable under the rear of the engine as you did in the rear of the transfer case.

Put the jack back under the rear of the transfer case.

Loosen the cables so there is some slack in them. This is now a safety item....You should let the engine and transmission assembly drop a little. It's not going to hurt anything and you can get to the upper bolts a lot easier this way.

There should be two bolts on the sides of the tranmsission, exactly 180* apart. Remove these bolts first!

Insert in thier places one of the rods, and put a washer and nut on the end of the rod

Now remove the rest of the transmission to engine block bolts.

Lower the jack a little so the assembly is resting on the cables.

Now you should be able to slide the transmission back on the rods you inserted in the bolt holes. The nuts on the end of the rods will limit how far back the transmission/transfer case assembly can slide. Nothing can slide back so far it falls on the floor... and you don't have to hold it or balance it.

When you have the transmission slid back as far as you feel needful you can re-tighten the cables and they will support the trnasmission. Now you use the Jack and the wires to lower the assembly to the floor.

See... it's a piece of cake and you're not grunting and sweating holding that transmission assembly. The cables are doing the work! You can do the Job over a week-end and still take the wife out to dinner on all the money you saved..

 

[624]

OOOOOOhhhhhhhhhhh now I see.... I had to read that one a few times, now most of it makes sense. hehe, you mentioned the clutch fork, lets just say its COMPLETELY in the bellhousing... long story. Anyhow, this should really help getting it out. Only problem is, I am getting a little confused about whether to unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing or the bellhousing from the engine block. Of course the manual says.... to unbolt the tranny from the 'clutch housing'. I dont know much about how things work in clutch, so why is it easier to do this way? I've had a hard time finding a manual that shows a clear picture of the clutch components and how they interact with the flywheel and transmission. Maybe I'm not qualified to do clutch work, but I'd like to be some day....

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[LEVE]

IMHO take the whole assembly out and refurbish at one time. It is an easy repair and you should do it now. If you have the money pull the flywheel and have it re-surfaced. If the clutch isn't almost new... replace it. Now's the time! You don't want to do this job again unless you have to.

Basketcase, you're more than qualified to do clutch work... ah heck, a trained monkey can do it, and you're smarter than one of them. I have proof of that... you own a Jeep. I've seen lots of monkeys drivin' Jeeps... but usually it's their Daddy's Jeep.

 

[RickB]

When I did mine, I pulled the transfer case, tranny and bellhousing off as one unit. I used two jacks to do it. One to support the whole thing and the other on the transfercase to stop it from rolling off the main jack.

Rick
80 CJ7
258 T176 TR upgrade

 

[624]

I may have to pull the bellhousing too... either way I havent had time to touch it again since Tuesday, but I did get the cable and threaded rod ; )

And Leve, I've been accused of being a monkey, but this definitely aint my daddy's jeep. It took nearly two years to talk him into allowing it on the property, until then it sat at my brother's boss's house. I paid 300 for the waggie and it looks like its been rolled down a hill... On the other hand, look at the drivetrain. It'll make a nice work truck if I can put a pickup cab on it and a flatbed. I'm not sure what all work I'll do to it, at the very least the clutch components, maybe resurfacing the flywheel. I'd like to rebuild the gearboxes but that's a major undertaking(for me at least) and I want to get this thing back together before I forget how it came apart ; )

Thanks again,
Andy

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