Well I'm not sure about the temp the herculiner (bed liner) can hold but it will reduce the road noise and engine noise greatly.. make sure u prep the rust before just applying it I just got done herculining the interior and I used the rest to do the fenderwells, and underbody looks great...

Muddynut /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

 

Coating the underside of the body is a two edged sword. On one hand when the coating is first laid down you have a good seal agianst moisture and all it carries with it. On the other hand after some time in service the coatings will be breached... it's not a matter of if, but when. When this happens moisture and debris can collect in the pockets created by the breach... and enhance the rusting. IMHO a coating is not a complete answer, and it's going to take a number of measures to keep rust at a minimum.

Good Jeepin'

Larry

 

Hi Larry

So what would be the perfect rust prevention while re-doing an old CJ ? Cut out what you can(of rust) , Rust Mort and then undercoat . I dont think a person ( doing it on his own) could do much more than that . And I think undercoat rather than Herculiner because u/coating has some memory and would be more likely to bounce debris away . Just my thoughts .

Jeff

Happy Owner of a 1979 CJ5
Almost finished /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif ( Ya Right ! )

There`s No Such Thing As Surface Rust

 

That is a good question, and I wish I had a good answer.

Two years ago I completley rebuilt my CJ7 tub and repainted it. I put on three coats of POR-15 on the underside of the tub. Then in March of this year I started to swap on a fiberglass tub. When taking of the body I had a good chance to look at what about 19 months of exposure to the elements did to the metal tub. It was an eye opener. I found lots of places where the POR-15 had done it’s job, and many more where it did not. The stuff had flaked off in places and not neutralized the rust as I’d hoped it would. This mean more frame repair than I thought would have been necessary. The underside of the tub had held up quite well to debris being hurled against it (including one rear drive shaft… at 60 mph). But anywhere that a pinhole was found in the POR-15 rust was starting. On the inside flooring of the tub there were two coats of POR-15, one coat of primer and two finish coats of paint. This area did not hold up at all to wear, and within a matter of a few months was rusting during the deepest cold of the Wisconsin winter. The salt took it’s toll. Bolts, nuts and fasteners all became one with the tub, despite the anti-seize compound that was liberally used.

Were I to rebuild the metal tub again… I think I’d:

1. Completely sandblast the tub.
2. Cut out all rust.
3. Weld in new panels.
4. Trim and grind down any welds.
5. Use 100 grit sandpaper to give a base for the undercoating
6. Steam clean the metal.
7. Wipe the bare metal down with vinagere to neutralize the metal.
8. Seal all seams with 3M autobody seam sealer.
9. Heat the metal of the tub to about 150 degrees.
10. Seal the underside of the tub with Rhino lining, or a competitive product.
11. Spray on two finish coats of “frame paint” over the Rhino lining. Frame paint is a type of paint that stays pliable, and “flows” to heal any breaches. It’s used on lots of farm equipment. This will provide the cushioning for the under-laid Rhino Lining.
12. Use anti-seize compound on all metal fasteners.
13. Paint all exposed metal bolts, nuts, etc. on the underside with the same frame paint.
14. Rhino line the flooring of the tub.

Now baring that, I’d get a glass body!




Good Jeepin'

Larry