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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guy off the line when i get on my shee it bogs down...that means its too rich correct? i have 300 mains in now(smallest i have) and i have fmf pipes and stock silencerss, mild port, k&n with lid off. should i go down to a 280 or a 290. plugs look clean and kinda wet and the tip of the plug is starting to turn black.

another thing is i was running 240's and the plug looked wet eventhough it was running lean. now when it is rich it still looks wet. shouldnt the plugs be dry?
any help would be great and thanks yamahaviper for answering my other question.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It doesnt always mean too rich.
First some questions for you.-
1) Does it pop when you let off the throttle?
2) When did this start, had you made any mods?
3) How long are you running it before you check the plugs and how are you riding it when you check it.
4) How dirty is your air filter
5) Are they the right spark splugs?
6) What octane gas are you using?
7) Are your plugs gapped properly?
9) What elevation are you at?
More than likely though, didnt you say that this thing had been sitting for awhile? If so, did you stabilize the fuel, drain the carbs or anything else? If not, you probably just need the carbs cleaned.,
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
everything is new...just got it running after i rebuilt everything on the quad. when i get on it it bogs and if u feather the clutch a little you can get it to rev and get in the powerband. doesnt make popping etc. just bogs when u get on it off the line. if you are rolling at 10mph or so and get on it it usallly runs great. i gotta check to see if my float levels are set correct(probably the problem) and add some 32.5 pilot jets and see if this helps me.

gas is pretty fresh mixed at 32:1
B8es plugs gapped to .028
at sea level
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sounds lwean to me. maybe the jetts are right but the float is too low? just a thought
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just make sure the jets are clean when you have it apart.
Float levels dont usually cause it to bag from the start like that, but could be. also check you petcock valve and make sure it is not too dirty.
My point on the jets is this: If it was running on those jets before you rebuilt everything, it should run now. Unless you did some heavy mods.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
before i rebuilt it had 240's in it with just pipes. i rebuilt and got mild porting and put a K&N in with out the lid. I adjusted the floats(off a little) and the plugs seem dryer. i am mixin up some fresh gas and am gonna run 36:1 i think. the thing is it smokes alot when u ride it. it always smoked but would stop after it got warmed up. I still gotta find a pilot jet somewhere to give that a try. oh yeah i cleaned the carbs when it was apart. hopefully i will find a solution quick or its off the yammy dealer because i am gettin sick of this.
 

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It's been a while since I looked at a Banshee so bear with me. Do they have an air screw? If so, you might want to play with that.

How are you doing your plug tests? The best way I've found is to clean the plugs with a hot motor, stick them in, take off and ride it regularly for a few minutes. Then keep the throttle in one position in fourth or fifth gear for about thirty seconds. Hit the kill switch and then close the throttle. This will give you a pretty accurate reading.

Main jets don't start getting used a lot until you get above half throttle so I wouldn't worry about them too much.

If I had to guess (it's a lot easier to tell when you can hear the motor), you're running too lean. I'd raise the needles a notch and give it another try.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When you guys talk about needle knotches and points what exactly are you refering too are you talking abou the needle from the idle adjustment?
 

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the large needle, the one that sticks into the main jet. it's the one that stays attached to the slide when you yank the slide out of the carburetor. if you pull the slide out of carburetor cap you then can pull the needle out of the slide. this needle usually has five or six notches in it that an e-clip sits in. if you put the e-clip lower you raise the needle (and richen the air-fuel mixture).

the idle adjustment screw is just the stop that keeps the slide from closing all the way. on many carburetors there are idle air screws. on some (like kei-hin) there are other mixture screws.
 
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