You shold change them soon, but I doubt they will break or anything. I need to change mine soon too, just don't jump it or anything...and do it when you can

90K5

 

Ok, I just did this to my 94 this weekend, it was a lot of work. I changed them on my little brother's S10 this summer and I could get that done in a morning now. Mine were the original factory ball joints so they were riveted in.( why did they have to rivet them in?) It took forever to do the one side, and I had no luck getting the rivets out on the drivers side. I had it towed to the alignment shop, because I couldn't put the rim back on the way it was. The guy there had a air chisel with a punch bit,( I have the chisel, but no punch bit.) He knocked them out real quick and I put everything back together in the parking lot in no time. Look to see if they are bolted in or riveted. If bolted, it is real easy. You need a ball joint seperator( big fork, which I also used for the tie rod.) and a 36mm socket to take the nut off of the front hub. other than that there are no special tools to change them. To awnser your original question, I notice mine getting bad last october( driving through fields hunting wasn't good for the boots) and knew I had to make it through the winter. My steering got real sloppy though. I was impressed with the factory parts 143,000 miles, my old S10 has had two sets in that time. I bought all the parts from Carparts.Com for $200( 4 balljoints, uppers and lowers, pitman arm, and idler arm. I am glad I did most of the work, I saved a lot of money that way.

Eric Peterson
94 K1500 Z71

 

do you have to remove the torsion bars to change the lower ball joints? what about the spindle, just take it off and take the lower ball joint off? how to get the lowers off if they are pressed in?

 

If you have a floorjack and jack stands the answer is no you don't need to unload the torsion bars before doing lowers. First jack the truck up and put the jack stands on the frame, take the floor jack. Position the jack pad under the lower A arm and raise the jack until the A arm looks about in it's normal position. Now break loose the upper ball joint, lower the jack down carefully and then you can slide it out and do the lower ball joint. That's how it worked on my S truck anyhow, and seeing how the designs are basically the same just differently sized, it should work for a fullsize too...

Tim "Sandman"

ORC Land Use columnist:
My February article on ORC
(I'm finally back)