Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I just did a full on RR SPO w/OTT,Swaped in a 1.6 8V made a custom 2.5 inch exaust popped in a polyshield, Center force II an Im ready for inspection.Everythings runnin great I drive over my girls house wake up the next day and its runnin like $hit. Massive hesitation on the low end but it idles perfect and seems very responsive if its in neutral with quick taps on the throttle but if I accelerate slow it konks out an shuts off.The next day the fuel lines freeze so i put a little gas X and gas line antifreeze in with a nearly full tank.I only used 1/2 of what was recomended for that much.The next week I give it a try and it started right up! Worked great until I drove 2 or 3 blocks An the same dam thing starts up.I mounted the electric fuel pump and a glass filter where the stock filter was so I can see its 1/2 full of green gas X water crap so I figure there cant be that much in there so I pumped all the gas out at the pump then cleared the line at the carb an topped it off with 6 gallons from a different gas station let it run for like a 1/2 hour. No more green $hit but its still doing the same thing if not worse!? I know I should take the tank out and flush it out (mine doesnt have a drain plug) but the gas looks good now and its dam cold outside. If anyone has an advise it woud be GREATLY APPRICIATED!! Im dyin to go wheeling again my trucks been sittin there for 4 years and I just did all this work on it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
Went through something similar a few weeks back. I did it backwards, started by taking the carb apart and cleaning it, then changed the stock fuel filter (1/3 full of water & crap frozen solid) and put in drygas, now probably going to drop the tank and give it a good flush since I still have some missing at steady 4000 rpm running..

I suspect that water picks up junk that gas doesn't and takes it to the filter and the carb. If you're sure you've got good gas now you probably have junk clogging up your carb.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,632 Posts
First off, change the rear fuel filter located on the inside of the passenger frame rail in front of the gas tank . Either eliminate it or buy several , you're gonna need them as they plug up pretty easily . Then , stop using too much alky or gas line antifreeze as you are cleaning the snot out of the tank and moving it into the fuel system . Any vehicle that sits will collect water along with whatever gets into the fuel tanks at the stations this time of year . The constant changes in temps do this and there is always a certain percentage of accidental water induction during rain ,ect . It's going to take awhile but you'll eventually get it all out , just be patient and keep plenty of filters handy .
Sarge
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
In reply to:

I mounted the electric fuel pump and a glass filter where the stock filter was

[/ QUOTE ]

Sarge, maybe I misunderstood what he meant here? You're saying don't use the drygas stuff and keep changing filters? Easier than dropping the tank for sure!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info guys that makes me feel alot better. I realy dont want to take the carb apart I only need it to get threw emissions, Im plannin to get an Outlaw and ported intake as soon as I get that sticker. I'lI run it for an hour or so an see if it clears out but,I think I might drop the tank anyway since I can hardly get out of the driveway.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I still need some help here guys! I dont think it's a fuel problem anymore,I think its an ignition problem.

I droped the tank after I let it run for an hour or so, cleaned the tank & filter, cleared the line, then ran the carb empty. Filled it up, ran fine for 1-2 miles,went over some RR tracks and It's doing the same thing.I can hardly get it movin but once It's up and floored It works.
I first thought it was shakin some junk from the carb,because it started workin right by the time I got back so I drove over some pot holes and It crapped out.I managed to make it back with out getting a ticket for going 45 in a 25 because I had it floored. I get out and my 2.5inch CAT is glowin like It'd been in a freekin furnace! Yet the engine's temp. is norm I could put my hand flat on the valve cover no problem and I could hold it on the block for a few seconds It wasn't even warmed up yet. I checked the plugs and they looked like they've been runnin hot, and I tried to test the coil and distributor but I was gettin some wakk readings I think my multi-meter is screwed up but I think It's the coil.It still idles perfect and starts right up (could it be runnin lean,I didnt think you could adjust a stock carb?).

Anyone have any advice?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,738 Posts
Try something - it's a better than 50/50 chance it'll work.
Your carb sounds like it's still got water in it - it's probably running lean, causing misfire - that misfire lets raw unburned gas get in the CAT where it burns - making it hot. Too lean it won't ignite in the combustion chamber, but what does get through collects in the CAT.

Try a Mexican tune-up.
Rev it to 2000 - 3000 or so, then put your hand completely over the top of the carb, choking it off completely. Let it die like that, hold it over until it stops.
It'll be hard to restart but do it, rev again and repeat it.

What completely choking it off does is suck all the water and junk out of the carb orfices from the high vacuum created. It pulls it out of the orfices, not the bowl, that's why you might have to repeat it a few times, depending on how much crud was in the the bowl.

It's kinda like sniffing your nose real hard, sucking all the snot into your throat. The engine swallows it harmlessly.

A trick airplane owners do to prevent condensation from building up - always keep the tank full. An empty tank has more room for water logged air to condense in.
Of course they also drain a little from the bottom before flying. They don't have the opportunity to walk when it stalls.

Too much water absorber/de-icer (isopropyl alcohol) will also clog things up. The de-icer absorbs the water, letting it get through the filters, but the mixture of de-icer and water is heavier than gas, so it lays in your carb bowl. Once it get warm, the alcohol evaporates, leaving gobs of water in the carb.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey thanks for the advice Rich! That makes alot more sense. I'll try that this weekend (my trucks at my parents house).I guess I'll pull the carb & clean it out if that doesn't work.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,871 Posts
You may want to go ahead and invest in a new coil as well. The stock coils are junk. I have 2 that are bad intermitantly sitting on the bench. I'm using a stock sized Accel High perf coil with good results.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea, Im thinkin about getting one from jcwitny its crome its puttin out like45k or 65000 and it's only $17.I know its probably knot going to hold up like thr MSD blaster but I could buy three of them for the same price.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I guess I could rebuild it, but I only need it to get threw emissions. By the way, with the 1.6 8v what do you do with the gas return line that went to the mech. pump? I just pluged it up.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,171 Posts
That's some great (off the beaten path) advice RRich! I did have water and after cleaning the carb, changing the filter and putting in some drygas it ran like a champ for a bit..now it's back to a sputter @ 3500 rpm up. Rather than take the carb apart again I'll try the "tuneup" trick and backflush the filter.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top