4" of backspacing will work, but don't get less than 3.5"

 

One caution on the backspacing, don't go any more than is the minimum necessary, otherwise at full articulation you will catch the
front tire on the lip of the fender. I tried the rims from my son's early Bronco on my CJ7, they have 1/2" more backspacing than my
rims, same tires, 33x12.5 BFG ATs. His would catch the edge of the fender.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

The less the backspacing the more the tire sticks out, the more the backspacing the closer the tire is to the springs. I use 3 5/8 backspacing on 10x15,33x12.5 BFG m/t with no rubbing.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5

 

ok here is what i have no bckspacing i have a 4 inch superlift and 33"s and they sit fine no problems ano rubbing at all and never bottom out i have a 77 cj7 i would suggest to you also is to get a mild shackle lift I like it they are more stronger than the stock ones and replace the hangers also i did works great

 

IS THAT ON A 8 OR 10 INCH WHEEL

 

I think we need to define backspacing here, otherwise known as offset. Negative offset or backspacing has the center of the rim
further out, kind of like a front wheel drive car. Positive offset or backspacing has the center of the rim farther in, making the wheel
stick out farther. In reference to my earlier post, I was referring to watching your positive offset, too much, and yes you won't rub
on suspension parts, but you will hit the fender lip. I hope this clears up any confusion.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

Backspacing is the distance between the inside edge of the rim (closest to the jeep) and the mounting surface at the center the wheel. If you lay the wheel down on flat ground with the outside of the wheel facing up, measure the distance from the ground to the back of the mounting surface and you have the backspacing.
Offset and backspacing are two different things.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5

 

You are absolutely right, technically they are 2 different things, one side of center or the other. I was just trying to simplify the discussion
and in doing so probably complicated things instead.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

Offset is measured from the center of the wheel, a 10" wide wheel with the mounting surface at 5"(half way across the 10"s) has no offset. 1" Positive offset would move the wheel 1" away from the suspenion, 1" negative offset moves the wheel 1" closer to the suspension.
Now I think I'm done

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5

 

To answer the other part of your question, IMHO, Superlift makes a decent affordable lift. I ordered one from Nat'l Tire & Wheel and had it delivered to my door for around $400 with shocks. Skyjacker, Big Dick's Suspension are also a couple of options I've heard good things about, although I've heard the Skyjacker sags down to about 3 1/2." Keep in mind you really need to change out your stock shackles to some heavy duty ones, may need to extend brake lines, and may have to lengthen driveshafts to get the full use of your lift. Just my $.02.
Shain

 

Back spacing should be determined by the s.a.i, or you will get scrub. The imaginary line through both ball joint pins should be about 1 inch below the center of the tire. The point from the center of the tire to this line is your scrub area, and it should not exceed one inch. If it does, you may get uncontrolable suspension harmonics at highway speed and over stress both the wheel bearings and the lug nuts. If the tires hit the fenders, get a body lift or cut them.. i.e.. If you had a 4 inch backspaced 8 inch wide wheel, see if a 5 inch backspaced 10 inch wheel will clear the steering knuckles, this will keep the center line of the wheel in relation to the designed in s.a.i. angle.